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OF  P3«Jf>x 
JAN  29  191  n 


#      DU    746    .C4    R6 

Robson,    William,    1785-1863. 
James   Chalmers 


MR.    CHALMERS   STORl'INU    THE    EKJllT    AT    DELEiNA.  [/.  lol. 


JAMES  'CHALMERS' 


OF 


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BY 

WILLIAM    R  O  B  S  O  N 

OF   THE   LONDON   MISSIONARY  SOCIETY. 


FLEMING    H.    REVELL 

CHICAGO  : 
148  &  150  MADISON  STREET. 

PUBLISHER   OF  EVANGELICAL  LITERATURE. 


NEW   YORK : 
12   BIBLE   HOUSE 


PREFACE. 


A  LIFE  more  varied  than  that  of  James  Chalmers 
cannot  be  found  in  the  annals  of  Christian 
service.  Many  of  its  highest  acts  of  heroism 
are  unrecorded. 
The  reference  to  his  work  in  Rarotonga  is  neces- 
sarily brief  Numerous  reforms  were  introduced 
into  the  Mission  there.  He  was  not  the  man  to 
rest  content  with  a  round  of  duties  which  might 
be  helpful  only  to  those  who  voluntarily  came  to 
church  or  lived  near  the  Mission  premises,  but 
regarded  every  soul  upon  the  island  as  put  by  God 
under  his  care,  and  having  equal  claims  for  spiritual 
help.  Thus  he  interpreted  the  command,  "  Go  ye 
unto  every  creature." 

Those  ten  years  in  Rarotonga  were  a  fitting  pre- 
lude to  the  more  difficult  work  performed  in  New 
Guinea.  The  perils  attendant  upon  much  of  it  we 
can  but  imperfectly  realise. 

In  writing  the  biography  of  a  living  person  there 
are  many  limitations.  Mr.  Chalmers  has  allowed 
this  book  to  be  published  in  the  hope  that  it  may 
be  helpful  to    Mission  work  in  that  great   land,  so 

5 


VI  PREFACE. 

much  of  which  still  lies  in  heathen  darkness.  He 
has  expressly  stipulated  that  all  laudatory  comment 
upon  himself  shall  be  avoided,  adding  the  injunction, 
"  Remember  I  am  not  dead  yet,  and  hope  to  work 
there  many  years  hence." 

He  generously  records  the  help  given  by  those 
devoted  native  pastors,  such  as  Piri  and  Ruatoka,  who 
were  so  often  his  companions,  and  the  brave  native 
crews,  who,  for  love  of  "  Tamate  "  (his  native  name) 
faced  dangerous  seas  in  an  open  boat,  at  seasons  of 
the  year  considered  unfit  for  travel. 

Mrs.  Chalmers's  life  deserves  a  longer  notice. 
Sufficient  is  said,  however,  to  show  that  she  was 
equally  possessed  of  missionary  zeal,  and  exercised  a 
noble  self-denial.  She  spent  her  life  for  love  of 
Jesus. 

Portions  of  Mr.  Chalmers's  journal  have  already 
been  published  by  the  Religious  Tract  Society,  under 
the  titles  "  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea," 
and  "  Pioneering  in  New  Guinea." 

The  writer  gratefully  acknowledges  the  help 
rendered  by  the  Rev.  Principal  Reynolds,  D.D., 
President  of  Cheshunt  College  ;  the  Rev.  A.  T.  Saville, 
of  Rye,  formerly  missionary,  in  the  South  Seas  ;  the 
Rev.  G.  Meikle  and  Mr.  J.  McArthur,  of  Inveraray  ; 
the  Rev.  J.  M.  Jarvie,  of  Greenock  ;  the  Rev.  W. 
Garratt  Horder,  of  Wood  Green  ;  and  the  Rev.  R. 
Pringle  of  Shipley. 

He  is  also  especially  indebted  to  Mrs.  Harrison,  of 
Retford ;  Miss  Hill,  of  Withernsea  ;  Miss  Buchan, 
of  Stratford  ;  and  Miss  Hercus,  of  Plumstead,  for 
information  respecting  the  early  life  of  Mrs.  Chalmers, 
and  for  the  loan  of  portions  of  her  correspondence. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.   WRECK      OF      THE     JOHN  .WILLIAMS — EARLY     LIFE 

—.VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH   SEAS,  ...  9 

IL    LIFE   AND  WORK   IN   RAROTONGA,         .  .  .  .        26 

III.  NEW    GUINEA — FOUNDING    THE     EASTERN     BRANCH 

OF  THE  MISSION,   .  .  .  .    '      .  .  .46 

IV.  EXPLORING   FOR   STATIONS— COAST  VISITS,',       .  .        'J'J 

V.    ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,    MERCY,   AND  JUSTICE,         .  .        87 

VI.   VOYAGE     IN     A     LAKATOI     TO-   THE    GULF    OF     NEW 

■     GUINEA, 117 

VII.  MISSION  WORK  —  PROTECTORATE  PROCLAIMED  — 
TOUR  WITH  THE  SPECIAL  COMMISSIONER  — 
RETURN  TO  ENGLAND,  .  .  .  .  135 


NEW  GUINEA  DRUM. 


8 


«-^ 


JAMES    CHALMERS. 


CHAPTER    I. 


WRECK    OF   THE  JOHN   WILLIAMS — EARLY    LIFE  AND 
TRAINING — VOYAGE   TO.   THE   SOUTH    SEAS. 


"  In  spite  of  rock  and  tempest's  roar, 
In  spite  of  false  lights  on  the  shore, 
Sail  on  nor  fear  to  breast  the  sea  ! 
Our  hearts,  our  hopes,  are  all  with  thee, 
Our  hearts,  our  hopes,  our  prayers,  our  tears, 
Our  faith  triumphant  o'er  our  fears. 
Are  all  with  thee, — are  all  with  thee>" — 

Longfellow. 

ON  the  8th  of  January,  1867,  in  the  absence  of  a 
suitable  anchorage,  a  gallant  ship  was  to   be 
seen    in    the    Pacific    Ocean   tacking   up   and 
down   in   front  of  Nine,  or  Savage   Island,  a 
wary  eye  being  kept  by  her  captain   on  the  danger 
arising   from    the   coral    reef  which   surrounded    the 
land. 


10  JAMES   CHAt-MERS. 

A  casual  spectator  would  have  been  puzzled  to  tell 
the  work  in  which  the  noble  vessel  was  engaged.  At 
first  glance  the  smartness  of  her  rigging,  her  trim 
sails,  white  deck,  substantial  build,  and  the  fine 
workmanship  everywhere  visible,  seemed  to  indicate 
an  unarmoured  cruiser  or  despatch  ship,  but  the 
absence  of  guns  dispelled  that  thought.  She  was 
so  unlike  the  vessels  usually  sailing  in  those  waters 
that  one  would  have  asked  involuntarily,  "What  can 
she  be  ?  " 

A  careful  scrutiny  of  the  flag  at  the  masthead 
proclaims  The  Messenger  of  Peace,  and  the  spectator 
knows  that  this  must  be  the  long-expected  ship  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society ;  the  second  bearing 
the  honoured  name  oi  Jolm  Williams, 

The  nature  of  the  goods  which  are  being  lowered 
into  the  boats  at  her  side  is  then  guessed.  As  they 
approach  the  reef  it  seems  impossible  that  any  one 
can  land  there.  A  narrow  opening  appears  in  the 
wall  of  rocks,  filled  with  foam.  Only  on  a  very  calm 
day  can  a  boat  go  in  there.  But  light  canoes  come 
off.  The  captain  steps  into  one  and  is  paddled  to 
the  edge  of  the  breakers,  when  strong  men  lift  him  on 
their  shoulders  and  carry  him  through  the  foam  up 
the  steep  rocks.  A  heavy  sea  overtakes  them,  they 
stand  firm,  it  passes  and  then  recedes.  Now  another 
run  and  he  is  placed  on  firm  ground  some  distance  up 
the  coral  rock. 

In  the  afternoon  the  captain  returns,  accompanied 
by  his  wife  and  the  Rev.  James  and  Mrs.  Chalmers. 
At  the  ship's  side  the  boats  are  soon  unladen  of  their 
cargoes  of  vegetables,  the  sails  are  set,  and  the  ship 
stands  out  to  sea  for  the  night  About  seven  the 
breeze  begins  to  lessen,  and  soon  dies  away.  The 
sails  only  flap  against  the  mast  as  the  ship  sways  on 


WRECK  OF   TH^  JOHN  WILLIAMS.  1 1 

the  rolling  waves.  A  placid  calm  prevails,  and  the 
declining  sun  makes  all  things  glorious  with  his 
crimson  beams.  The  passengers  and  crew  watch 
the  tranquil  scene.  Nellie,  a  fine  Newfoundland  dog, 
gazes  steadily  through  the-  open  port-hole  and  con- 
templates the  water,  then,  giving  her  huge  body  a 
jerk,  as  if  a  twinge  of  conscience  brought  to  her 
mind  the  fact  that  a  family  of  twelve'  small  puppies 
requires  supper,  she  slowly  trots  along  the  deck  to 
where  that  rowdy  litter  has  a  home.  It  would  be 
hard  to  say  who  showed  most  pride  and  interest  in 
that  family — their  mother  or  the  sturdy  sailors.  But 
public  attention  is  now  fixed  upon  the  water,  where  two 
currents  are  contending — one,  caused  by  the  departed 
wind,  leading  from  the  land  ;  and  the  other,  a  heavy 
swell,  which  proves  the  stronger,  and  moves  towards 
the  island.  They  are  a  long  way  out  to  sea,  and  no 
thought  of  danger  arises.  The  ship  drifts  astern,  as 
it  often  did  in  a  calm.  It  is  wise,  however,  to  take 
precautions  early,  so  at  a  quarter  to  eight  o'clock  the 
whale-boat  is  lowered  and  takes  the  ship  in  tow ;  soon 
the  pinnace  is  sent  down,  and  then  the  gig  follows  suit. 
Still,  with  three  boats  at  work  and  every  sail  trimmed, 
the  ship  goes  astern.  As  the  darkness  deepens  it  is 
seen  that  she  draws  nearer  and  nearer  that  fatal  reef 
Every  nerve  is  strained,  the  united  and  sustained  efforts 
of  relays  of  strong  arms  are  put  forth,  but  in  vain. 
The  ship  continues  her  steady  course  towards  the 
reef;  About  nine  o'clock  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies,  and  Mrs.  Williams,  the  captain's 
wife,  repair  to  the  saloon  for  prayer.  Strong  and 
fervent  are  their  supplications.  Again  and  again 
they  implore  their  Father  in  heaven  to  save  their 
beautiful  ship — His  own  vessel, — built  by  the  exer- 
tions   of  thousands    of  earnest    young    hearts,    and 


12  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

solemnly  dedicated  to  His  service.  But  their  prayers 
of  faith  are  not  answered  in  the  way  they  desire. 

Now  rapid  footsteps  are  heard,  and  going  on  deck 
they  find  that  rockets  and  blue  lights  are  being  fired  to 
inform  friends  on  shore  of  their  danger,  although  it  is 
•  well  known  that  they  can  render  no  help.  The  lead  line 
is  thrown,  but  no  bottoni  can  be  found.  About  ten 
o'clock  it  was  evident  that  unless  a  breeze  speedily 
came  they  would  lose  the  ship,  and  Captain  Williams 
advised  all  to  get  a  change  of  clothing.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  gig  is  brought  alongside  and  the  ladies 
dropped  from  the  side  of  the  vessel  into  it.  No  time 
for  ceremony  now,  seventy-two  souls  have  to  be 
provided  for  in  those  boats,  and  already  the  back 
swell  from  the  reef  can  be  felt  on  board  the  ship.  At 
11.25  ^11  have  left ;  but  stay,  where  is  Nellie  and  her 
family?  An  active  tar  scales  the  ship's  side,  the 
mother  is  sent  down  in  a  noose,"  eight  of  the  whining 
family  are  kennelled  in  a  bucket  and  lowered,  then 
the  sailor,  carefully  buttoning  up  the  remaining  four 
in  the  breast  of  his  shirt,  swings  himself  into  the 
pinnace,  as  proud  of  saving  the  dogs  as  he  had  been 
helpful  in  delivering  the  alarmed  passengers. 

In  a  very  few  minutes  they  hear  the  ship  strike 
with. a  frightful  noise  which  sends  pain  to  every  heart, 
and  plainly  tells  that  there  is  no  hope  of  her  being 
saved.  The  night  is  pitchy  dark,  and  the  boats  are 
kept  together  by  ropes,  as  they  fear  being  driven  out 
to  sea  and  have  no  provisions  or  water.  The  Mission 
premises  are  some  miles  distant,  and  now  rain  comes 
down  in  thoroughly  tropical  style.  All  are  speedily 
wet  to  the  skin,  and  feel  very  cold.  Mr.  Chalmers, 
who  was  one  of  the  last  to  leave  the  ship,  is  separated 
from  his  wife,  and  has  begun  early  to  show  coolness 
and  forethought  in  the  midst  of  danger.      He  has 


EARLY   LIFE  AND    TRAINING.  1 3 

prepared  himself  for  swimming,  and  consequently  has 
neither  coat,  vest,  nor  boots. 

A  succession  of  lights  are  kept  burning  by  people 
ashore,  which  enable  them  at  three  o'clock  to  find  the 
opening,  and  by  4.30  the  natives  have  safely  carried 
all  over  the  surf-beaten  rocks. 

The  coloured  teachers  and  their  families  went  with 
the  people  of  Niue,  and  all  the  Europeans  were 
received  with  deep  sympathy  at  the  Mission  House  by 
the  Rev.  W.  G.  and  Mrs.  Lawes. 

While  the  hero  and  heroine  of  our  story  are 
detained  upon  'Niue  and  collecting  a  few  articles  from 
the  wreck  of  the  John  Williams,  we  will  briefly  refer 
to  their  previous  history  and  training. 

The  father  of  James  Chalmers  came  from  Aberdeen, 
His  mother  was  a  handsome  Highland  lassie,  whose 
dark  expressive  eyes,  well  cut  features,  quick  energetic 
movements,  and  loving  disposition,  are  all  reproduced 
in  her  son. 

James  was  born  in  1841  at  Ardrishaig,  and  w^hen 
quite  an  infant  his  parents  removed  to  Inveraray, 
twenty-three  miles  higher  up  Loch  Fyne. 

He  was  a  lively  boy,  full  of  mirth  and  fun.  This 
disposition  has  been  of  the  greatest  value,  enabling 
him  to  acquire  friends  everywhere,  and  to  attract  the 
wildest  savages  by  its  fascinating  influence. 

His  first  education  was  obtained  in  Glenaray 
School  under  Mr.  John  McArthur,  who  testifies  to  his 
pupil's  attention  to  lessons.  He  was  very  successful 
as  a  prize-taker,  and  passed  an  examination  for 
pupil-teacher.  His  school-master  loved  him  as  one  of 
his  own  boys,  and  received  much  help  from  him  in  the 
croft  at  haymaking  during  the  summer  holidays.  He 
was  leader  in  all  school  sports,  and  had  a  natural 
ambition  to  excel  in  deeds  of  mischief  and  daring. 


14      .  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

So  irrepressible  was  his  love  of  fun  that  his  mother 
was  in  constant  fear  when  he  was  out  of  her  sight. 
Twice  was  he  taken  home  to  all  appearance  drowned. 
At  the  age  of  fourteen  he  formed  a  Robin  Hood 
Band  and  successfully  led  it  to  many  queer  exploits. 
When  still  a  stripling  he  saved  four  lives  from  drown- 
ing. 

Although  his  parents  belonged  to  the  Established 
Church  of  Scotland,  James  attended  the  United 
Presbyterian  Sunday  school. .  One  Sunday,  when  he 
was  fifteen  years  old,  the  pastor,  the  Rev.  Gilbert 
Meikle,  addressed  the  school  on  mission  work  in  the 
Fiji  Islands,  and  in  closing  said,  "  I  wonder  if  there  is 
any  lad  here  who  will  yet  become  a  missionary.  Is 
there  one  who  will  go  to  the  heathen  and  to  savages 
and  tell  them  of  God  and  His  love?"  Chalmers 
inwardly  said,  "  I  will  "  ;  and  on  his  way  home  he  went 
behind  a  stone  wall,  and  kneeling  down,  vowed  to 
serve  Christ.  These  impressions  proved  transient, 
and  the  vow  of  consecration  to  mission  service  was 
forgotten  for  several  years,  during  which  he  was 
employed  as  clerk  in  a  lawyer's  office  at  Inveraray. 
He  gave  up  the  Sabbath  school,  but  continued  to 
attend  Sunday  evening  service  in  the  church,  the 
pastor  observing  him  as  an  eager  listener. 

When  sixteen  years  old  Chalmers  arranged  with 
two  other  lads  to  run  away  to  sea.  The  appointed 
night  came,  and  his  little  bundle  was  ready  for  the 
boat  they  were  to  take  in  the  early  morning.  He 
could  not  sleep  ;  all  night  he  lay  awake  thinking  of 
his  mother's  broken  heart.  The  others  went,  but 
James  remained  at  home. 

He  now  gave  up  regular  attendance  at  church,  and 
the  pastor  thought  that  he  sought  to  avoid  him,  and 
also  felt  that  he  was  losing  his  influence.     Towards 


EARLY   LIFE  AND   TRAINING.  15 

the  end  of  1859  two  young  men  from  the  north  of 
Ireland  were  labouring  as  evangelists  in  Inveraray, 
and  the  whole  town  was  moved.  Chalmers  felt  the 
prevailing  influence,  and  the  first  token  of  this  was 
his  crossing  the  street  to  shake  hands  with  his  pastor. 
They  had  confidential  intercourse,  and  Mr.  Meikle 
was  greatly  interested  in  the  convictions  and  struggles 
of  that  young  heart ;  but  the  crisis  was  delayed  for  a 
time.  When  it  came  it  was  sudden  and  sharp.  One 
Sunday  evening  after  the  service  he  was  brought  into 
a  state  of  the  greatest  spiritual  anxiety,  and  gave 
open  expression  to  his  feelings.  That  night,  after 
long,  and  earnest,  wrestling  in  prayer,  he  attained  the 
peace  his  heart  longed  for.  '      . 

There  was  no  hesitation  with  Chalmers  as  to  how 
he  should  comport  himself  before  the  world.  He  was 
not  the  man  to  hedge  himself  around  and  live  a 
defensive  Christian  life.  His  bold  spirit  now  assailed 
the  spiritual  powers  which  had  held  him  in  bondage. 
Joining  the  United  Presbyterian  Church  he  became  a 
teacher  in  the  Sunday  school,  and  devoted  himself  to 
evangelistic  work.  After  office  hours  he  held  meetings 
in  houses  throughout  the  town  and  neighbourhood, 
and 'was  the  means  of  awakening  many.  With  such 
ardour  did  he  pursue  this  kind  of  work  that  his  health 
was  injured  for  a  time.  He  then  thought  of  becoming 
a,  city  missionary,  and  made  application  to  the 
Directors  of  the  Glasgow  City  Mission,  who,  after  an 
interview,  elected  him  one  of  their  agents  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Greyfriars'  United  Presbyterian  Church, 
under  the  Rev.  Dr.  Calderwood. 

This  new  employ  was  prosecuted  in  the  same 
earnest  and  energetic  way,  and  his  friends  and  the 
Church  at  Inveraray  were  frequently  appealed  to  for 
special   help    in    necessitous   cases.      His   work   was 


1 6  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

greatly  blessed  ;  many  received  eternal  good,  his 
Bible-class  had  130  members,  and  all  the  services  he 
held  were  well  attended. 

While  thus  engaged  he  met  in  Glasgow  the  Rev. 
George  Turner,  LL.D.,  of  Samoa,  who  called  his 
attention  to  the  London  Missionary  Society  and  its 
work.  His  vow  to  serve  Christ  in  the  foreisTn  field 
now  came  to  his  mind,  the  way  seemed  opened,  and 
by  Dr.  Turner's  advice  he  applied  to  the  Directors  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society. 

After  due  examination  he  was  accepted  and  sent  to 
Cheshunt  College  for  training.  While  entertaining 
due  gratitude  to  the  Society  for  the  training  thus 
provided,  it  is  known  that  he  now  regrets  that  he  did 
not  earn  it  by  his  own  efforts,  believing  that  an 
education  thus  worked  for  is  much  more  conducive  to 
manliness  and  self-reliance  in  after  life. 

There  is  a  wonderful  unanimity  in  the  testimony 
respecting  Mr.  Chalmers  given  by  his  tutors  and 
fellow-students. 

His  active  missionary  career  in  Glasgow  was  not  a 
favourable  preparative  for  prol'onged  hours  of  study. 
Being  eminently  sociable  he  imbibed  and  quickly 
assimilated  ideas  from  his  fellow-students,  and  still 
more  from  the  tender  and  gracious  influence  of  the 
Principal,  Dr.  Reynolds.  Here,  too,  he  was  one  of  the 
leaders  in  amusements.  A  favourite  game  of  his  was 
plying  a  raft  on  the  river  which  runs  through  the 
college  grounds.  This  usually  ended  in  his  getting  a 
good  ducking. 

There  are  records  of  at  least  four  persons  whom  he 
pulled  out  of  the  river  Lea  during  his  college  course. 
The  last  occasion  was  after  he  had  removed  to 
Highgate  Institution.  He  had  come  to  preach  a 
missionary   sermon   at   Hertford   Heath,  and   in   the 


EARLY   LIFE  AND   TRAINING.  1/ 

afternoon  accompanied  some  students  to  Broxbourne. 
As-  it  was  very  warm  several  took  to  the  water. 
Presently  one  got  out  of  his  depth,  made  a  good  deal 
of  commotion,  and  cried  for  help.  Chalmers  jumped, 
in  with  his  best  clothes  on,  and  soon  dragged  him  out. 
•  Returning  to  the  college  one  of  his  intimate  friends 
(now  the  Rev.  R.  Pringle)  supplied  a  change  of 
clothing  which  made  up  in  length  what  they  lacked 
in  breadth,  and  off  the  brave  fellow  went  to  the 
•service.  He  made  light  of  the  rescue,  but  it  was  a 
noble  self-sacrificing  act. 

His  sermons  as  a  student  were  of  a  rough  and 
ready  sort,  but  always  practical,  and  spoken  with  such  ' 
sincerity  and  conviction  that  it  was  no  wonder  the 
people  of  the  village  stations  heartily  appreciated  him. 
He  was  at  home  in  some  Hebrew  story,  and  especially 
fond  of  the  two  texts,  Dan.  iii.  21  and  I  Sam.  xviii.  4 : 
"Coats,  hosen,  and  hats,"  and  "Sword,  bow,  and 
girdle," — the  one  relating  to  perhaps  the  most  cour- 
ageous act  in  the  Old  Testament,  the  other  to  the 
most  generous. 

He  took  enthusiastically  to  all  kinds  of  mission 
work,  visiting  diligently  the  poor  and  aged,  and 
preaching  in  the  open  air.  On  one  occasion  he 
courageously  addressed  a  crowd  of  gin-drinking 
holiday-makers  at  the  famous  Rye  House. 

But  the  best  thing  about  him  was  his  thorough 
goodness  and  kindness  of  heart ;  though  a  poor  man, 
he  would  part  with  his  last  shilling  to  help  another. 

Dr.  Reynolds  writes  respecting  Mr.  Chalmers  :  "  He 
gave  me  the  idea  of  lofty  consecration  to  the  Divine 
work  of  saving  those  for  whom  Christ  died.  His 
faith  was  simple,  unswerving,  and  enthusiastic,  and 
while  he  could  throw  a  giant's  strength  into  all  kinds 
of  work,  he  was  gentle  as  a  child  and  submissive  as  a 


1 8  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

soldier.  He  used  to  pray  for  help  as  if  he  were  at 
his  mother's  knee,  and  to  preach  as  though  he  were 
sure  of  the  message  he  had  then  to  deliver." 

In  the  summer  of  1864,  ten  missionary  students 
were  withdrawn  from  various  colleges  and  sent  for  a 
year's  special  training  under  the  Rev.  Dr.  J.  S. 
Wardlaw,  at  the  London  Missionary  Society's  Institu- 
tion, Highgate.  One  of  these  was  James  Chalmers.  It 
was  a.  year  of  wondrous  happiness  and  expectancy  to 
these  young  men,  whose  thoughts  and  conversation 
daily  turned  towards  the  life-work  and  scenes  upon 
which  they  were  so  soon  to  enter. 

A  few  days  after  they  assembled,  the  house  trem- 
bled, and  Mrs.  Wardlaw  in  dismay  searched  about  for 
the  cause  of  the  unusual  commotion.  Upon  entering 
a.  room  around  which  the  students  were  seated,  she 
found  that  it  was  only  the  lively  Chalniers  enter- 
taining them  with  a. Highland  fling. 

Early  one  Sunday  morning  all  were  startled  from 
sleep  by  a  loud  report,  which  made  every  window 
jingle.  As  the  students  sat  up  and  looked  about,  a 
lady's  voice  was  heard  from  the  staircase  exclaiming, 
"  I  suppose  it  is  Mr.  Chalmers  at  one  of  his  noisy 
games  again."  This  time,  however,  it  was  not  the 
vivacious  student,  but  a  terrible  explosion  at  the  Erith 
powder  mills,  fifteen  miles  distant. 

During  the  first  part  of  his  stay  at  Highgate,  Mr. 
Chalmers  was  intensely  anxious  to  -be  sent  to  Africa. 
Dr.  Livingstone  was  then  in  England  speaking  on 
behalf  of  missions,  and  preparing  for  further  travels, 
and  "his  young  countryman's  heart  went  out  towards 
the  unexplored  continent.  But  the  Divine  Arranger 
•  of  events  had  planned  explorations  for  him  to  do  in 
another  country. 

When   the   Directors   of   the   London    Missionary 


EARLY   LIFE   AND   TRAINING. 


19 


Society  appointed  him  to  Rarotonga,  he  made  no 
resistance,  believing  that  the  decision  had  been  guided 
by  God,  and  his  heart  was  soon  aglow  with  enthusiasm 
for  work  in  the  South  Sea  Islands.  He  and  others, 
however,  had  to  exercise  patience,  as  the  ship  which 
was  to  carry  them  there  was  still  building  at 
Aberdeen. 

The  old    missionary  ship,   JoJin    Williams^  having 


FIRST    "JOHN    WILLIAMS"    ON    REEF   AT    PUKAl'UKA. 

been  vvrecked  at  Pukapuka,  many  thousands  of  young- 
people  were  then  busily  collecting  the  funds  for  the 
new  vessel. 

While  waiting  her  arrival,  Mr.  Chalmers  and  his 
fellow-student,  Mr.  Saville,  resided  at  Woolwich  with 
the  Rev.  John  Hercus,  and  studied  the  Rarotongan 
language  under  the  Rev.  William  Gill,  who  had 
been    a    rhissionary    in    the    Hervey    Group.     They 


20  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

also   pursued   medical   studies,   and    found    time   to 
practise  photography. 

At  last  the  ship  was  ready,  and  the  young  mission- 
aries were  told  to  prepare  for  ordination,  which  was 
also  to  be  followed  by  their  marriage,  and  a  speedy 
•^   departure.  ■  •      ■ 

The  young  lady  who  had  consented  to  be  the  help- 
mate of  Mr.  Chalmers  in  his  mission  work,  was 
possessed  of  considerable  gifts  and  graces,  and  proved 
to  be  quite  as  brave  and  devoted  in  her  sphere  of  work. 
Miss  Jane  Hercus  was  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Peter 
Hercus,  a  wholesale  merchant  in  Greenock,  who  in 
1865  emigrated  to  New  Zealand.  She  was  descended 
on  both  sides  from  a  succession  of  pious  .ancestors. 

Her  mother  died  when  Jane  was  about  five  years 
old.  She  was  the  eldest  of  four  children,  and  early 
developed  staid  and  thoughtful  ways,  though  naturally 
a  bright  and  happy  girl.  Her  maternal  grandfather, 
the  Rev.  George  Robertson,  died  in  1854,  when  she 
was  about  fourteen,  and  his  widow  removed  to  Kirk- 
wall, in  the  Orkney  Islands.  Thither  came  Jane  to 
watch  over  and  tenderly  care  for  her.  dear  grand- 
mother. For  five  years  she  remained  in  close 
attendance,  seeking  no  amusement,  or  even  the  com- 
-panlonship  of  those  of  her  own  age,  but  devoting 
herself  wholly  to  the  discharge  of  her  filial  duties, 
without  seeming  to  feel  that  any  sacrifice  was 
demanded  of  her.  Doubtless  this  was  the  prepara- 
tion time  for  that  faithfulness  to  duty  so  conspicuous 
In  her  rhissionary  life. 

In  1858,  Miss  Hercus  professed  decision  for  Christ, 
and  joined  the  Church  under  the  Rev.  J.  McNaughton. 
This- was  by  no  means  the  beginning  of  her  Christian 
life,  but  the  expression  of  an  experience  gained  at  a 
much  earlier  date.      From   childhood  she  had  been 


EARLY   LIFE  AND   TRAINING.  21 

distinguished  for  a  devoutness  which  indicated  the 
working  of  a  higher  power.  The  pious  ancestry  and 
gracious  influences  of  a  Christian  home  largely  helped 
to  form  her  singularly  beautiful  character,  although 
the  chief  factor  in  this  work  was  her  deep  genuine 
love  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ. 

Of  a  retiring  disposition,  she  shrank  from  publicity 
or  display.  Observers  who  remarked  this  gentle 
meekness,  amounting  almost  to  timidity,  would  never 
have  anticipated  that  underneath  that  attractive  grace 
lay  a  dauntless  spirit  capable  of  the  noblest  actions, 
and  able  to  endure  those  manifold  "  perils  of  death  " 
which  she  so  bravely  encountered  in  the  mission 
field. 

Miss  Hercus  was  a  devoted  worker  in  various  forms 
of  Christian  service.  On  the  death  of  her  grand- 
mother in  1858,  she  returned  to  Greenock.  When 
her  parents  removed  to  Glasgow  in  1861,  she  pursued 
a  course  of  study,  and  was  afterwards  engaged  in 
tuition  at  Waterbeck. 

After  her  family  went  to  New  Zealand  in  1865, 
Miss  Hercus  stayed  at  Inveraray  until  her  marriage  on 
8th  November  of  that  year,  and  secured  the  love  and 
admiration  of  her  friends  there. 

The  missionaries  embarked  on  board  the  JoJin 
Williams  ow  the  4th  of  January,  1866,  accompanied  by 
a  large  party  of  friends,  and  after  a  special  service  on 
the  quarter-deck,  all  went  below.  A  circle  was  formed 
in  the  saloon.  All  joined  hands,  and,  led  by  Mr. 
Chalmers,  sang  "  Auld  Lang  Syne." 

They  encountered  bad  weather  in  the  Channel,  but 
Mr.  Chalmers  was  on  deck  in  all  weathers,  helping 
the  sailors  or  listening  to  their  yarns.  He  was 
always  at  home  among  these  hardy  sons  of  Neptune, 
and  at  once  began  missionary  operations,  teaching  a 


22  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Bible  class  and  conducting  a  prayer-meeting  in  the 
forecastle.  By  these  means  and  earnest  conversation, 
several  of  the  roughest  of  the  crew  were  brought  into 
Christ's  service. 

His  restless  spirit  ever  led  him  into  what  Mrs. 
Chalmers  viewed  as  places  of  danger,  now  climbing 
the  rigging — again  astride -the  bowsprit.  Sometimes 
he  would  take  his  Rarotongan  Bible  and  dictionary, 
and  mounting  to  the  cross-trees  of  the  main-mast, 
study  the  language  he  was  soon  to  speak.  Although 
he  returned  safely,  he  brought  smears  of  tar  and 
grease  upon  his  white  clothing,  causing  much  concern 
to  his  tidy  wife. 

The  vessel  was  nearly  lost  in  the  Channel,  and  had 
to  put  into  Weymouth  for  repairs.  Twenty-one  ships 
sank  in  the  Channel  during  that  gale.  The  other 
missionaries  went  ashore,  but  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
refused  to  go.  "  No,"  he  said,  "  I  will  stand  by  the 
ship,  the  captain,  and  crew."  Mrs.  Chalmers  wrote, 
"  Hope  has  not  fled  from  our  hearts,  but  we  shall  yet 
see  the  South  Seas.  We  do  not  feel  frightened  to  go  . 
on  our  way." 

Mrs.  Chalmers'  father  met  them  at  Adelaide,  and 
went  on  to  Melbourne.  To  her  joy  he  proposed  to 
take  her  to  New  Zealand,  and  send  her  to  Sydney 
in  time  to  sail  with  the  JoJin  Williams  from  there. 
She  was  thus  enabled  to  visit  her  united  family  once 
more,  and  spent  three  happy  weeks  at  Dunedin. 

While  thus  engaged,  Mr.  Chalmers  went  with  the 
ship  to  Geelong,  Hobart  Town,  and  Sydney.  At  the 
latter  place  he  was  very  active,  preaching  three 
times  on  Sunday,  and  speaking  at  meetings  nearly 
every  week-night.  The  good  people  were  very  kind 
to  the  missionaries.  They  were  especially  happy  to 
meet   some   retired   brethren   who   had   laboured    in 


K 
w. 

in 

W 
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o 


o 

r 
f 

> 


24  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Rarotonga,   and    to   hear    their    kind    and   glowing 
account  of  the  native  Christians. 

On  the  5th  of  September  thQ  Jolm  Williams  struck 
on  a  sunken  reef  as  she  was  entering  .the  harbour  of 
Aneityum.  The  missionaries  went  ashore,  but  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Chalmers  stayed  on  board  to  comfort  and  help 
Captain  and  Mrs.  Williams.  They  did  not  think  at 
first  that- much  damage  was  done,  but  in  a  few  hours 
found  that  the  ship  was  leaking  very  much.  The 
pumps  were  kept  going  through  a  long  dreary  night. 
During  the  next  three  days  and  nights  the  Christian 
natives  worked  at  the  pumps  whilst .  the  crew  and 
missionaries  lightened  the  vessel  by  discharging  the 
cargo.  Mr.  Chalmers  worked,  alternately  with  each. 
On  the  8th  of  September  a  large  number  of  sturdy 
natives  were  gathered  on  the  deck  of  the  vessel  -by 
Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  colleague  Mr.  Saville.  Led  by 
the  two  young  missionaries,  more  active  than  weighty, 
the  assembled  crowd  jumped  and  ran  together  with 
such  good  effect  that  the  ship  slid  off  the  reef  into 
deep  water.  . 

These  native  Christians  would  not  accept  any  pay- 
ment for  the  long  course  of  pumping,  and  twenty-two 
of  them  readily  consented  to  undertake  the  same  duty 
during  her  perilous  voyage  to  Sydney  fpr  repairs. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  went  too,  and  the  Presbyterian 
Mission  ship,  the  Dayspring^  accompanied  them,  in 
case  it  was  found  necessary  to  abandon  the  John 
Williams.  Had  she  not  been  an  exceptionally  strong 
ship  she  would  doubtless  have  gone  down  during  that 
long  voyage.  On  returning,  to  Aneityum  they  took 
on  the  missionaries  and  called  at  Uvea,  Lifu  Mare, 
and  Nine.  Here  the  missionaries  went  ashore.  After 
several  days,  the  supplies  for  the  island  were  landed, 
and  Captain  Williams  arranged  for  them  to  go  on  board 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH   SEAS.  2$ 

the  next  day  to  proceed  to  Samoa.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Chalmers  accompanied  him  as  described  in  the  com- 
mencement of  this  chapter.  That  night  the  John 
Williams  was  wrecked,  and  all  were  doomed  to  wait 
three  weary  months  upon  this  lonely  island  until 
Captain  Hayes,  better  known  as  Bully  Hayes,  arrived 
in  his  notorious  brig  the  Rona.  He  had  seen  the 
wreck,  and  landed  to  inquire  about  the  disaster.  Soon 
arrangements  were  made  for  him  to  convey  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Chalmers  to  Rarotonga,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville 
to  Huahine.  They  called  at  Samoa,  Tahiti,  Huahine, 
Mangaia,  and  Aitutaki,  thus  visiting  all  the  principal 
islands  which  the  London  Missionary  Society  occupied 
in  the  South  Seas. 

On  the  20th  of  May,  1867,  seventeen  months  after, 
leaving  London,  they  reached  Rarotonga,  and  began 
their  labours  with  as  much  courage  and  earnestness  as 
if  nothing  had  happened  to  hinder  their  journey  or 
damp  their  ardour. 


STONE  ADZE. 


INSTITUTION   AND   MISSION   HOUSE,  AVARUA,  RAROTONGA. 


CHAPTER  II. 


LIFE    AND   WORK  IN    RAROTONGA. 


RAROTONGA  is  a  coral  island,  and  the  largest 
of  the  Hervey  group.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
coral    reef  which   approaches  so  near  to  the 

island  in  most  parts,  that  a  boat  cannot  well 
be  navigated  in  the  water  between,  except  at  one 
settlement  where  there  is  a  lagoon.  Even  then,  how- 
ever, too  many  large  blocks  of  coral  rise  up  here  and 
there  over  it,  to  make  boating  safe.  Around  the 
beach  of  the  island  is  a  rough  road  nineteen  and 
a-quarter  miles  in  length,  by  which  communication  is 
carried  on  between  the  villages. 

This  beautiful  island  was  in  a  most  distressful  con- 
dition  when  Mr.  Chalmers  arrived.  In  March,  1866, 
and  again  in  March,  1867,  terrible  hurricanes  had  swept 
over  the  land,  destroying  houses,  trees,  and  plantations, 
the  fruit  of  years  of  patient  toil.  It  was  never  known 
that  two  hurricanes  should  come  within  twelve  months. 
The  previous  one  had  occurred  in  1846,  twenty  years 
before.  The  houses  of  the  students  of  the  Institution 
and  those  of  the  native  pastors  in  the  villages  were 

26 


LTFE  AND   WOIIK  IN   RAROTONGA.  27 

either  blown  down  or  in  a  most  deplorable  condition  ; 
the  school-room  at  Avarua  (Mr.  Chalmers'  village)  was 
in  ruins.  Nearly  the  whole  of  that  season's  crop  of 
food  was  spoiled.  Truly  their  state  was  pitiable.  The 
difficulties  of  the  situation  were  increased  by  the  fact 
that  everything  necessary  for  repairing  the  damage 
was  lost  in  th.Q  John  Williams.  Comparatively  speak- 
ing, the  missionary  and  his  wife  were  no  better  off 
than  their  people.  Two  outfits  and  two  supplies  of 
goods  had  been  spoiled  and  lost  in  the  ill-fated  ship. 

The  Mission  House  and  chapel  had  escaped 
damage,  and  for  two  months  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
dwelt  happily  with  the  family  of  the  Rev.  E.  R.  W. 
Krause,  who  was  about  to  retire  from  active  service, 
and  arrangements  were  made  by  Mr.  Chalmers  to 
purchase  the  furniture.  The  house  was  very  pretty  as 
well  as  large  and  comfortable.  They  chiefly  felt  the 
loss  of  all  their  books,  which  their  lonely  position  made 
more  keen.  For  more  than  six  months  no  letters 
arrived.  In  spite  of  these  drawbacks,  they  were  very 
happy.  Mrs.  Chalmers  wrote,  "  Oh,  how  glad  we 
feel  to  be  at  last  in  our  home  and  at  our  work,  the 
weariness,  tedious  delays,  and  accidents  of  the  journey 
are  all  as  a  dream  of  the  past  in  the  home  bliss." 

They  could  not  help  comparing  the  beauty  of 
Rarotonga  with  the  wild  scenery  of  their  beloved 
Highlands  of  Scotland.  In  that  coral  island^  every- 
thing grows  so  fast  that  it  looks  like  a  vast  over-grown 
mass  of  vegetable  matter.  The  eye  is  satiated  with 
such  wild  fertility.  There  are  no  native  flowers — 
those  around  the  Mission  premises  having  been 
imported  ;  but  the  island  is  rich  in  various  species  of 
ferns.  Tew  native  birds  are  to  be  seen,  and  they 
are  poor  in  song.  There  are  some  lovely  valleys, 
but  no  water.     They  seem  to  need  the  rivers,  lochs, 


28  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

and  burns,  with  the  pretty  farmsteads,  cattle,  and 
patches  of  cleared  land,  to  make  up  what  to  British 
eyes  are  the  essential  elements  of  a  beautiful  country. 

Mrs.  Chalmers  thought  that  the  reason  tourists  were 
so  moved  by  the  beauty  of  these  South  Sea  isles  was 
that  they  were  so  long  journeying  there,  with  only  the 
ocean  and  sky  to  look  at,  and  when  the  isles  rise 
suddenly  out  of  the  ocean,  their  bold  outlines  and 
gorgeous  vegetation  powerfully  strike  the  imagination, 
long  before  it  is  possible  to  go  ashore  and  make  a 
closer  inspection  of  the  details  of  the  beautiful  scene. 

There  were  five  villages  or  settlements  upon 
Rarotonga  when  Mr.  Chalmers  went,  each  with  a 
church  arid  native  pastor.  The  missionary  preached 
at  each  place  in  turn ;  leaving  home  on  Sunday 
morning  on  horseback  and  returning  at  night. 
When  at  the  nearer  settlements  he  returned  home 
to  conduct  an  afternoon  service  at  Avarua.  The 
chief  charge  lay  in  the  Institution,  for  training  native 
teachers  and  educating  the  men  of  influence  and 
position  in  the  various  islands. 

Until  the  incoming  of  Mr.  Chalmers  the  students 
had  been  fed  and  clothed  at  the  expense  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society.  Th-e  Directors  .felt 
that  as  a  similar  institution  at  Samoa  was  self-sup- 
porting from  its  commencement,  it  was  right  that 
efforts  should  be  made  to  put  the  one  at  Rarotonga 
upon  the  same  footing.  With  this  Mr.  Chalmers  heart- 
ily agreed,  and  told  the  students  that  he  would  only 
buy  food  for  six  months,  and,  in  the  meantime,  land 
must  be  cleared  and  planted.  The  late  chief  had 
some  few  years  previously  presented  Mr.  Krause 
with  eighty  acres  of  uncleared  land,  but  he  felt  it 
unwise  to  accept  such  a  gift,  and  told  the  chief  so. 
He,  however,  said  that  it  might  at  some  time  prove 


in 
in 

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M 
M 


> 
< 
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JO 

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2; 
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> 


29 


30  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

beneficial  to  the  mission,  so  the  chief  transferred 
it  as  a  gift  to  the  Society.  Mr.  Krause  meant  to 
have  the  land  cleared  for  the  students,  but  his  health 
failed  so  rapidly  that  he  gave  up  the  project. 

So  the  work  of  clearance  was  begun,  some  members 
of  two  of  the  churches  helping  with  the  first  three- 
or  four  acres.  The  students  broke  up  the  remainder, 
piece  by  piece.  Natives  do  not  like  working  for  . 
nothing,  so  during  the  progress  of  the  land  clearing, 
their  efforts  were  stimulated  by  a  number  of  feasts. 
Some  were  provided  by  the  Society,  but  Mr.  Chalmers 
added,  from  his  own  stock,  four  oxen  and  a  number 
of  pigs  for  that  purpose.  They  had  no  classes  on 
Wednesdays.  That  day  was  devoted  to  the  land, 
while  during  the  spring  months  they  went  three  times 
weekly,  Mr.  Chalmers  always  going  with  them  to  see 
that  the  work  was  well  done,  and  helping  now  and 
then -to  encourage  them.  In  addition  to  this  Institu- 
tion land,  each  "student  had  a  private  garden  near 
the  mission  premises,  at  which  he  worked  for  an  hour 
daily.  Such  was  the  productiveness  of  this  land 
that  it  required  no  further  attention. 

The  men  studied  in  classes  with  Mr.  Chalmers 
from  eight  to  ten  in  the  morning,  and  their  wives 
during  the  same  time  were  taught  by  Mrs.  Chalmers 
in  a  large  room  at  the  Mission  House.  Previously 
they  had  been  taught  in  a  class  with  their  husbands. 

The  plan  for  self-support  succeeded  so  far  as  food 
was  concerned.  The  other  alterations  made  were 
duly  appreciated,  and  speedily  both  the  Institution 
and  mission  generally  were  in  a  most  prosperous 
condition. 

Mr.  Chalmers  had  other  classes  in  connection  with 
the  church  at  his  station,  such  as  an  inquirers'  class, 
and  Bible  class.     He   also  visited   the  other  settle- 


LIFE  AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  3 1 

ments  during,  the  week,  but  there  his  efforts  were 
directed  towards  making  the  pastors,  deacons,  and 
class  leaders  do  their  own  work  thoroughly,  and  to 
cultivate  a  spirit  of  self-reliance,  rather  than  one  of 
dependence  upon  the  missionary  for  doing  the  work  if 
they  failed. 

There  was  a  quarterly  meeting  of  the  teachers 
for  prayer  and  inquiry  into  the  state  of  the  work 
of  God.  Even  at  that  early  date,  he  strove  to 
impress  upon  them  that  the  time  was  coming  when 
the  Society  would  have  to  withdraw  its  missionaries 
for  service  in  heathen  lands,  and  that  they  should 
use  every  effort  to  qualify  themselves  for  governing 
the  Church  in  their  midst,  and  of  sending  some  of 
their  number  with  the  European  missionaries  as 
pioneers  of  the  Gospel  elsewhere. 

There  were  two  stations  at  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.. 
Chalmers  often  stayed  for  a  few  days.  At  Ngatangiia 
two  rooms  were  fitted  up  for  them,  and  at  Oroiangi 
the  Society  had  a  house  and  furniture  in  charge 
of  the  teacher  Isaiah.  They  enjoyed  these  changes 
of  scene  and  the  extended  opportunities  for  work 
thus  afforded. 

The  people  were  not  so  far  advanced  in  civilisation, 
and  in  mature  Christian  life,  as  the  young  missionaries 
inferred  from  the  books  they  had  read,  and  the 
speeches  they  had  heard  respecting  the  early  success 
of  these  missions.  They  felt  the  truth  of  the  sugges-' 
tion  in  the  lines  of  George  Eliot — 

"  Maybe  'tis  wiser  not  to  fix  a  lens 
Too  scrutinising  on  the  glorious  times."    . 

There  were  several  stone  cottages,  mostly  unoccu- 
pied. They  had  been  built  to  please  Mr.  Buzacott, 
and   then  "left,   as   the   people   preferred   their    reed 


32  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

houses,  which  were  also  much  more  suitable  to  the 
climate,  as  the  air  passed  freely  through  them,  yet 
without  draft,  and  the  women  understood  better  how 
to  keep  them  tidy.  But  the  stone  houses,  with  their 
closed  windows  and  the  dirty  plastered  walls, 
appeared  out  of  place  in  that  land,  and  the  people 
looked  far  better  in  their  native  dwellings.  The 
chief  top  had  a  fine  stone  house  of  five  rooms,  but 
dwelt  in  a  reed  cottage. 

Some  possessed  a  bedstead  and  one  or  two  chairs, 
perhaps  a  sofa.  Others  a  few  plates  and  small  basins,  . 
a  spoon,  and  two  or  three  knives  and  forks,  but 
those  things  were,  treated  as  some  people  use  their, 
drawing-room  furniture  and  ornaments.  They  clung 
to  their  old  habits,  and  used  leaves  for  plates,  cocoa- 
nut  shells  for  cups,  and  their  fingers  for  conveying 
all  food  to  the  mouth.  Common  butcher's  knives 
and  sometimes  large  bladed  pocket-knives  were 
used  for  dividing  the  food.  In  the  Institution' 
the  arrangements  were  suited  to  the  habits  of  the 
people.  At  its  commencement  they  tried  to  get 
the  students  to  take  it  in  turn  by  couples  to  cook 
for  all,  but  it  was  abandoned  after  a  short  trial. 
The  grandees  of  the  land  felt  insulted  when  it  became 
their  turn  to  cook  for  the  commonality.  Now  each 
*  cooks  for  himself,  or  joins  two  or  three  others,  in 
so  far  as  the  supply  and  cooking  went.  When  the 
food  was  ready  each  took  his  portion  home  t©  his 
family.  It  is  a  matter  of  indifference  to  a  native 
whether  he  eats  his  food  hot  or  cold.  They  do  not 
sit  down  together  to  a  meal,  but  like  to  eat  a  little 
frequently,  each  as  his  appetite  dictates. 

The  people  had  not  received  any  supply  of  clothing 
for  some  years,  in  consequence  of  the  loss  of  the  first 
and  second  Jolm  Williams^  but  in  1 869  the  third  ship 


LIFE  AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.     •'         33 

of  that  name  arrived  with  a  quantity  on  board,  and 
on  gala  days,  and  at  meetings  in  the  church,  on  their 
visits  to  the  mission  house,  or  when  they  expected  a 
call  from  the  missionary  or  his  wife,  they  were  well 
dressed.  But  in  their  homes,  or  when  engaged  about 
some  work  alone,  their  attire  was  of  the  oddest  kind, 
and  approached  in  various  degrees  their  ancient  state 
of  nakedness. 

When  the  missionaries  approached  the  native 
houses  they  took  care  to  move  slowly  along  to  give 
the  people  time  to  prepare  for  their  coming.  There 
were  always  some  children  about  to  give  notice  of  the 
visitors'  approach.  The  children  preferred  nature's 
garb  when  at  play.  Up  to  that  time  they  had  only 
adopted  European  clothing  upon  public  occasions  to 
please  the  missionaries,  and  returned  with  greater 
avidity  to  their  old  dirty  habits  when  the  foreign  eyes 
and  influence  were  removed. 

Sometimes  their  desire  to  be  like  "  tangata  papaa  " 
— white  man — would  lead  them  to  put  on  a  pair  of 
boots.  Their  efforts  to  walk  in  them  were  most  droll. 
They  would  catch  hold  of  a  chair  or  something  to 
give  themselves  a  start,  and  then  roll  about  like  a 
child  tottering  in  its  first  efforts  to  walk.  Of  course 
the  boots  hurt  their  feet,  and  often  they  would  go 
with  only  one  shoe  on.  A  native  youth  said,  when 
questioned  about  a  pair  of  shoes  he  had  bought — 
pointing  to  the  one  he  had  on,  "  You  see  by-and-by 
he  get  bad — all  break — me  one  goot  one  in  my  box 
— me  put  him  on  my  other  foot ! " 

Mrs.  Chalmers  succeeded  in  persuading  some 
native  women  to  leave  off  the  old  heathen  practices 
in  reference  to  the  rearing  of  infants.  They  were 
surprised  to  see  that  the  children  grew  better  and 
healthier  under  the  new  methods. 

C 


34  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

There   was  a  good  code  of  printed  laws,  but  they 

were  not  carried  out.     The  chiefs  declared  they  were 

above  the  law,  and  the  people  endeavoured  to  follow 

their   example.       Their   ideas   of  justice   were   most 

peculiar.    Take  one  or  two  instances.    In  1868,  a  man 

who   had    killed    another   in   a   drunken    spree,   was 

sentenced    to    only   seven    years   imprisonment.      In 

May,  1869,  a  man,  under  the  influence  of  orange  beer, 

attacked  his  wife  with  an  axe,  declaring  he  would  kill 

her,  and  dealt  several  blows  before  others  came  to  her 

help.    She  was  much  injured.    A  few  days  afterwards, 

a  lad  went  to  his  plantation  followed  by  a  dog. .  A 

pig  rushed  at  the  dog  and  bit  its  leg,  and  in  return 

the  dog  bit  the  pig's  ear.     The  two  cases  were  tried, 

and  the   lad  received  the  same  punishment  for  the 

doings  of  his  dog,  as  the  man  who  tried  to  kill  his 

wife.     The  missionaries  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what 

the  lad  was  charged  with.     Neither  the  pig  nor  dog 

were  much  hurt,  but  the  judges  did  not  like  the  lad, 

so  he  was  punished.     This  is  a  fair  specimen  of  the 

native  notions  of  law  and  justice. 

The  religious  state  was  that  usually  seen  among  a 
people  recently  emerged  from  heathenism.  They 
still  cleaved  to  old  sins  and  customs,  and  will  continue 
to  do  so  for  some  generations  to  come. 

Their  spiritual  life  approached  near  to  that  which 
we  are  accustomed  to  see  in  children,  with  remnants 
of  heathenism  added.  The  best  Church  members 
were  found  among  the  old  men,  who  had  been 
acquainted  with  heathenism  in  all  its  disgusting  de- 
tails. They  '*  remembered  the  rock  from  whence  they 
were  hewn."  The  rising  generation  knew  nothing  of 
that,  and  could  not  so  well  appreciate  the  blessings  of 
Christianity. 

There   was    living   then   on    Rarotonga   good   old 


LIFE  AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  35 

Maretu,  the  finest  specimen  of  a  Christian   and  the 
best  native  teacher  Rarotonga  has  yet  produced. 

He  had  been  a  warrior,  and  was  one  of  the  first 
fruits  of  the  Rev.  C.  Pitman's  labours  soon  after  his 
arrival  in  1827,  and  after  being  trained  by  that 
missionary,  laboured  with  much  success  in  various 
islands.  He  returned  to  Rarotonga  in  1854,  and  took 
charge  of  the  principal  station.  Apart  from  his 
position  as  a  teacher  he  was  a  very  influential  man. 
When  he  spoke  in  matters  of  government  all  were 
silent,  and  none  of  the  chiefs  dared  oppose.  Yet  to  all 
appearance  he  was  simply  a  happy  old  man  who 
loved  children  and  collected  all  sorts  about  him. 
Mrs.  Chalmers  was  a  great  favourite  with  Maretu, 
and  used  to  tease  him  by  saying  that  he  was  too  old 
to  have  the  children  about,  and  only  spoiled  them. 
He  would  laugh,  and  scratch  his  head  in  a  way 
peculiar  to  himself,  a  token  of  pleasure  or  trouble,  as 
the  case  might  be,  and  say,  "  Oh !  Mrs.  Chalmers, 
don't  think  that  I  am  an  old  man.  Maretu  vaine  (his 
wife)  is  old,  but  I  am  young."  And  the  old  man 
indeed  felt  young.  His  wife  had  been  with  him  in  all 
his  travels  and  labours,  a  true  helpmate,  but  although 
not  older  than  he,  was  much  more  frail. 

Another  notable  Christian  was  Tapairu-ariki.  She, 
with  a  number  of  native  women,  was  stolen  from 
Rarotonga  by  Captain  Goodenough,  who  discovered 
the  island,  and  left  at  Aitutaki.  The  Rev.  J. 
Williams  noticed  this  fair  young  woman  when  he 
visited  that  island,  and  she  was  taken  on  by  him 
to  her  native  land.  Captain  Goodenough,  afraid  that 
his  atrocious  conduct  might  be  revealed,  had  not 
announced  his  discovery  of  the  island,  so  Mr.  Williams 
spent  many  days  in  quest  of  it.  About  half-an-hour 
before  the  time  which  he  had  set  for  giving  up  the 


36 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


search,  the  crests  of  lofty  mountains  revealed  its 
position,  and  Tapairu-ariki  went  on  shore  with  the 
teachers  to  introduce  them  to  her  cousin  Makea,  the 
principal  chief.  She  was  ever  the  friend  and  helper 
of  the  teachers,  and  her  rank  made  her  word  powerful. 
Being  a  woman  of  great  energy  and  spotless  character, 
she  did  much  good,  and  was  called  ''  the  Mother  of  the 


TAPAIRU-ARIKI. 


Word  of  God."  She  died  in  February,  i88i,  about  the 
age  of  eighty-five,  having  lived  to  see  her  descendants 
of  the  fifth  generation.  Her  teeth  at  that  age  were 
perfect.  The  backs  of  her  hands  were  beautifully 
tattooed,  so  that  strangers  thought  she  wore  mittens. 
In  early  life  she  had  eaten  human  flesh,  and  her 
history  was  truly  a  strange  one,  when  the  darkness 
and  cruelty  of  its  dawn  is  contrasted  with  the  light 


.   LIFE  AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  37 

and  peace  of  its  close.  She  was  longing  to  depart  and 
be  with  Christ,  when  the  Rev.  W.  Wyatt  Gill  said  he 
hoped  her  grey-headed  sons  from  Aitutaki,  would  be 
able  to  see  her  again.  She  replied  quietly,  *'  It  is  well 
with  them,  for  they  are  serving  Christ.  Do  not  detain  . 
me  by  your  prayers  and  kind  wishes.  Let  me  go 
quickly  to  the  Saviour  I  have  loved  so  long." 

When  Mr.  Chalmers  landed  he  saw  old  men  and 
women,  children,  and  plenty  of  young  women.  He 
inquired,  "Where  are  the  young  men?"  "Oh," 
replied  the  old  missionary,  "  there  are  none,  they 
have  gone  away."  The  young  missionary  was  of  a 
very  energetic  temperament,  and  took  long  rambles 
up  this  hill,  down  that  valley,  and  through  others. 
As  the  island  is  covered  with  thick  vegetation  and 
bush  it  is  difficult  to  find  your  way  about.  A  few 
native  paths  exist,  wide  enough  for  one  person  to 
walk  in.  In  his  walks  Mr.  Chalmers  came  upon 
many  young  men  who  never  went  near  the  villages, 
but  stayed  in  the  bush.  He  talked  kindly ;  made 
them  feel  he  was  their  sincere  friend,  and  that  he  took 
a  great  interest  in  them.  They  were  charmed  with 
the  frank  brotherliness  of  the  new  missionary,  and 
welcomed  his  visits.  Their  chief  amusement  was  the 
manufacture  and  consumption  of  intoxicating  drinks. 
They  preferred  foreign  rum  when  it  could  be 
obtained,  but  failing  that,  they  made  drinks  from 
oranges,  bananas,  pine-apples,  and  other  fruits. 

This  caused  the  missionary  great  anxiety,  as  he 
saw  in  it  the  speedy  ruin  of  the  people,  and  he  deter- 
mined to  extend  his  researches.  By  leaving  the 
paths,  and  forcing  his  way  through  the  bush,  he 
found  in  secluded  parts,  very  difficult  of  access,  fine 
spaces  cleared  of  bush  and  plants,  and  shaded  by 
trees.     They  had  taken  care  that  no  paths  should  be 


38  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

made  near  these  groves  which  were  held  sacred  to  the 
god  Bacchus.  The  rascals  in  a  spirit  of  fun  com- 
menced their  revels  by  singing  hymns  and  prayer. 
When  drunk  they  would  throw  off  their  scanty 
clothing  and  fight  like  savages.  None  of  the  judges 
or  policemen  dared  go  near.  The  missionary,  how- 
ever, was  determined  to  do  his  duty,  so  at  night  he 
would  wander  about  in  search  of  these  meetings,  and 
pushing  through  the  dense  bush  come  upon  them 
suddenly. 

Then  would  be  seen  fifty  or  sixty  nearly  naked 
fellows,  engaged  in  a  drunken  orgie,  around  five  or 
six  barrels  of  orange  rum.  Often  he  arrived  at  the 
end  of  the  revel,  just  in  time  to  save  the  lives  of  some 
who  were  being  smothered  by  their  fighting  comrades, 
and  were  too  drunk  to  help  themselves.  None  ever 
insulted  or  showed  fight  to  their  missionary.  Some- 
times he  arrived  as  they  were  proceeding  with  the 
opening  service,  when  he  would  walk  up  to  the  casks 
and  pull  out  the  corks,  or  more  frequently  inflict  on 
the  revellers  the  humiliation  of  making  them  pour  all 
the  liquor  upon  the  ground.  He  would  speak  faith- 
fully to  them  of  their  ways,  and  of  Divine  love  and 
mercy,  and  then  see  all  safely  on  their  way  home. 

Although  many  of  these  wastethrifts  were  lords  of 
the  soil,  and  most  had  land  to  work  upon,  they  never 
attended  to  it  or  laboured  in  any  way.  With  a  girdle 
of  leaves,  old  cloth,  or  at  best  a  dirty  old  shirt  and 
trousers,  hair  long  and  uncombed,  these  devotees  of 
drink  would  wander  about.  As  the  result  of  Mr. 
Chalmers'  earnest  conversations,  one  and  then  an- 
other would  give  up  their  evil  ways  and  return  to 
the  settlements,  attend  church,  and  lead  a  better  life. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  tried  in  every  way  to  stem 
the   drinking   habits.      Even    little  children   used  to 


LIFE   AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  39 

meet  in  the  bush,  prepare  intoxicating   Hquor  from 
the  delicious  fruits,  and  drink  it. 

A  Rechabite  Society  was  started  by  Mr.  Chalmers, 
and  large  temperance  meetings  were  held  regularly. 
He  stirred  up  the  chiefs,  and  they  enforced  the  laws. 
After  some  years  of  persistent  efforts  they  had  con- 
siderable success. 

The  lack  of  employment  or  amusement  for  the 
natives,  especially  the  young  men,  was  a  cause  of 
regret,  and  the- missionary  and  his  wife  often  wished 
they  had  some  public  games  to  interest  them  in 
leisure  hours.  They  had  plenty  in  heathen  times, 
but  the  native  teachers  who  first  came  to  the  island 
did  away  with  them  all.  They  did  not  see  any  dis- 
tinction between  that  which  was  innocent  and  the 
obscenity  which  often  accompanied  these  amusements. 

Some  of  the  natives  went  to  Tahiti  during  Mr. 
Chalmers'  residence,  and  saw  the  natives  go  through 
exercises  in  the  form  of  a  drill.  When  they  returned 
they  introduced  it  among  the  people,  while  Mr. 
Chalmers  was  away  for  a  fortnight  superintending 
the  mission  work  at  another  part  of  the  island.  Upon 
his  return,  he  called  the  young  men  to  perform  in 
front  of  the  Mission  House.  While  there  was  much 
childish  nonsense  in  parts,  he  saw  nothing  to  con- 
demn, and  encouraged  them  to  continue,  as  he 
perceived  that  it  brought  all  the  wild  fellows  into  the 
settlement,  where  they  could  be  more  readily  influ- 
enced, and  very  little  drink  obtained.  Good 
clothing  was  required  for  the  drill,  and  large  orders 
were  given  to  the  traders.  Meanwhile  the  young 
men  set  to  work  to  get  money,  and  all  were  able  to 
pay  for  their  goods  when  they  arrived.  Mr.  Chalmers 
called  upon  the  volunteers  to  go  through  their  per- 
formance again   before  the   Mission   House.      When 


40 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


they  were  done  he  said,  "  If  you  meet  for  drill  you 
should  also  come  to  church,"  and  presented  a  Bible 
to  each  with  his  name  written  in  it.  They  came  to 
service  willingly,  and  he  soon  arrested  attention  by 
special  addresses  to  them  as  a  Volunteer  Corps. 
Bible  and  other  classes  were  formed  from  this  band  of 
young  men,  which  the  missionary  took  charge  of 
gladly.  Many  were  converted,  and  became  Church 
members,  while  others  became  respectable  men,  sober, 
and  regular  worshippers. 

Did  he  use  guile  to  catch  them  ?     If  so  it  was  of 


FIRST   STONE  CHURCH,    RAROTONGA. 

a  very  simple  and  artless  kind.  Yet  some  have  found 
fault  with  his  telling  them  they  must  attend  church. 
Surely  every  Christian  will  rejoice  that  by  such  means 
God's  work  was  helped  forward. 

The  education  given  in  the  village  schools  was  of  a 
very  elementary  kind.  The  children  had  two  school 
feasts,  in  December  or  January  and  in  May.  The 
annual  feasts  of  the  people  were  also  in  May,  when 
the  missionary  meetings  were  held,  and  contributions 
varying  from  ^200  to  ;^25o,  given  in  aid  of  the 
London    Missionary   Society.      Their   attention   was 


LIFE  AND   WORK  IN    RAROTONGA.  4 1 

continually  being  directed  and  their  sympathies 
drawn  out  towards  those  islands  where  the  Word  of 
God  was  unknown,  and  the  students  were  eager  to  go 
to  these  dark  places.  In  1872,  five  students  and  their 
wives  sailed  in  the  JoJui  Williams  for  New  Guinea, 
and  after  them  other  parties  were  regularly  sent  to  fill 
up  vacancies,  caused  by  ill-health  and  deaths,  and  to 
enter  upon  new  stations. 

The  spiritual  state  of  the  churches  was  changeful, 
and  often  caused  the  missionary  and  his  wife  much 
anxiety.  In  1870  there  was  a  very  refreshing  out- 
pouring of  the  Holy  Spirit,  and  a  revival  of  religion 
took  place  in  many  hearts.  Numbers  of  careless  and 
wicked  ones  were  converted,  and  many  who  had  been 
expelled  from  the  chu^rches  for  gross  sins  were 
brought  to  repentance  and  renewed  in  their  faith. 
A  few  of  the  converted  ones  yielded  again  to  tempta- 
tion, but  the  great  majority  held  firmly  on,  and  gave 
an  impetus  to  the  life  of  the  Church. 

Mr.  Chalmers  had  to  accompany  the  y<9//;2  Williams 
to  visit  the  out-stations  on  various  islands,  and  upon 
his  wife  devolved  the  task  of  superintending  the  work. 
It  was  a  very  anxious  time,  for  in  addition  to  the 
cares  of  the  Institution,  over  fifty  inquirers  came  to 
the  Mission  House  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night, 
seeking  relief  in  their  spiritual  distress.  She  was 
very  glad  indeed  at  the  end  of.  six  weeks  to  shift  part 
of  the  burden  to  the  proper  shoulders. 

These  out-stations  were  visited  annually  by  the 
missionaries  of  the  group  in  turn.  The  people  on 
the  islands  of  Maniiki,  Rakaanga,  Pukapuka,  and  the 
Penrhyn  Islands  were  very  poor,  and  had  only  fish 
and  cocoa-nuts  to  subsist  upon.  The  islands  of  Aitu, 
Mauke,  and  Mitcaro  are  more  fertile.  Upon  the 
poorer  places  Mr.  Chalmers  distributed  much  of  the 


42  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

clothing  and  other  things  sent  in  cases  by  kind  friends 
at  Leeds,  Hull,  Greenock,  and  Sydney.  The  re- 
mainder was  used  as  presents  to  the  teachers  of  the 
other  places ;  also  little  remembrances  were  made  to 
the  aged  teachers  and  their  wives,  who,  retired  from 
active  service,  were  passing  their  declining  years  at 
Rarotonga.  The  schools  also  came  in  for  a  share  of 
these  good  things,  and  the  women's  classes  had  happy 
times  in  making  the  prints  and  other  stuffs  up  into 
dresses.  Mrs.  Chalmers  found  it  best  to  let  them  use 
their  ingenuity  in  cutting  out  and  making  up  the 
dresses.  She  thought  the  tight  dresses  sent  from 
Europe  unsuited  to  the  climate,  and  encouraged  the 
women  to  continue  making  loose  flowing  robes. 
They  added  little  improvements  in  the  design  of  the 
regulation  yoke  pattern,  and  also  imitated  the  ideas 
imported  from  Tahiti. 

The  school  materials  and  stationery  sent  were  very 
useful  in  the  schools  and  Institution.  The  full  story 
of  their  struggle  to  make  the  Institution  self-support- 
ing cannot  be  told,  but  they  passed  through  many 
straits,  and  often  had  the  missionary,  out  of  the 
stipend  which  barely  sufficed  for  his  own  wants,  to 
devote  a  portion  towards  the  pressing  needs  of  those 
under  him. 

Mrs.  Chalmers  left  Rarotonga,  on  a  visit  to  her 
family  at  Dunedin,  New  Zealand,  in  October,  1875. 
She  had  previously  suffered  bereavement  in  the 
deaths  of  her  brother,  Mr.  Watson  Hercus,  and  her 
only  sister,  Mrs.  Black.  It  was  a  season  of  much 
happy  intercourse ;  and  she  returned  with  greatly 
improved  health  in  May,  1876. 

During  that  year  a  fine  new  class-room  was  added 
to  the  Institution.  The  number  of  the  teachers  in 
training  was  thirty-six,  and   twelve  were  waiting  at 


LIFE   AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  43 

Aitutaki  until  houses  could  be  made  for  their  accom- 
modation. 

Some  years  before,  a  boy's  boarding-school  was 
formed  to  give  a  more  advanced  education  to  those 
who  had  been  instructed  in  the  village  schools,  and 
it  had  prospered  so  that  in  1876  fifty-nine  boys  were 
being  taught,  and  more  were  awaiting  admission. 
Forty-nine  boys  lived  on  the  Mission  premises, 
so  that  the  missionary  and  his  wife,  active  though 
they  were,  had  hard  work  to  keep  pace  with  the 
work. 

In  June,  1876,  Mr.  Chalmers  left,  with  Rev.  G.  A. 
Harris,  for  an  extended  deputation  tour,  and  visited 
all  the  islands  in  the  Hervey  Islands  Mission  ;  and  in 
September  he  visited  some  of  the  out-stations,  also 
Huahine  and  Tahiti. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  give  an  account  of  the 
daily  routine  at  the  Mission.  Mr.  Chalmers  attended 
the  morning  prayer-meeting  in  the  church  at  day- 
break,— i.e.^  from  half-past  five  to  six  o'clock.  Then 
breakfast  between  half-past  six  and  seven,  according 
to  season.  Immediately  after,  prayers  were  said  in 
English,  and  then  medicine  was  dispensed  until  eight 
o'clock.  From  eight  to  ten  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
had  students  and  their  wives  in  classes.  Then  Mrs. 
Chalmers  was  busy  with  household  matters,  and  the 
missionary  with  his  students,  teaching  them  to  build 
houses  and  make  furniture,  or  in  his  study,  until  twelve, 
when  dinner  was  served.  After  that  a  rest  or  little 
recreation  until  two,  when  they  bathed  and  put  on 
clean  clothes.  Mr.  Chalmers  went  to  superintend  the 
printing-office  until  four  o'clock  tea.  Then  they  went 
out  to  visit  the  sick,  look  up  Church  members  and 
others,  also  to  inspect  the  students'  homes,  and  see  to 
any  out-door  matters.     At  six  the  lamps  were  lighted 


44  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

and  there  were  prayers  with  servants  in  Rarotongan, 
after  which  prayer  in  English,  then  they  would  go 
to  the  study  and  prepare  for  further  work  until  nine 
o'clock.     By  ten  all  had  retired  to  rest. 

They  felt  their  isolation  very  much  at  first.  For 
two  years  they  only  saw  one  white  Christian,  and 
great  was  their  joy  when  the  John  Williams  arrived. 
They  were,  however,  too  busy  to  be  weary. 

As  time  went  on  the  number  of  classes  increased, 
and  their  time  both  before  and  after  dinner  was  still 
more  filled  up  with  tuition.  The  boys'  school  was  an 
additional  care.  So  time  never  hung  upon  their 
hands,  although  the  monotony  of  the  early  spring 
months,  when  no  vessels  visited  the  land,  and  there 
were  no  crops  or  fruits,  was  very  depressing. 

In  1873,  a  newspaper  was  started  by  Mr.  Chalmers, 
but  it  was  given  up  after  a  brief  existence.  He  had 
to  write  everything  for  it,  and  his  wife  to  correct  for 
the  press.  There  were  many  eager  readers,  and  it  did 
some  good,  but  it  was  too  heavy  an  undertaking  with- 
out helpers,  so  it  was  reluctantly  discontinued. 

Mr.  Chalmers'  ministry  in  Rarotonga  was  marked 
throughout  by  the  great  earnestness  with  which  he 
laboured  for  the  salvation  of  the  people,  and  also 
to  raise  the  believers  to  a  higher  spiritual  level. 
Holiness  of  heart  and  uprightness  of  public  and 
private  life  were  his  constant  themes,  and  "waiting 
upon  God  "  enforced  as  the  way  out  of  all  difficulties, 
as  well  as  the  source  of  light  and  comfort. 

For  a  long  time  their  attention  had  been  called  to 
New  Guinea,  and  as  far  back  as  1869,  Mr.  Chalmers 
had  offered  to  do  pioneer  work  there.  Dr.  Mullens 
wrote  asking  him  to  go  in  1872.  The  other  mission- 
aries, however,  wished  them  to  continue  their  very 
important  wgrk  in  the  Hervey  Islands. 


LIFE  AND   WORK   IN    RAROTONGA.  45 

The  people  were  greatly  distressed  at  the  thought 
of  losing  their  beloved  missionary  and  his  active  wife, 
but  when  the  repeated  request  of  the  Directors  came, 
Mr.  Chalmers  could  no  longer  delay.  Their  hearts 
were  full  at  the  thought  of  leaving  the  people  they 
had  worked  for  and  prayed  for  so  long.  But  a 
more  urgent  call  had  come.  The  great  lone  land 
lying  in  darkness  needed  missionaries,  so  in  May, 
^^77 i  just  ten  years  after  their  arrival,  they  left 
Rarotonga,  via  New  Zealand  and  Sydney,  for  New 
Guinea. 

In  both  colonies  they  had  an  enthusiastic  welcome. 
Mr.  Chalmers  preached  three  or  four  times  every 
Sunday,  and  addressed  large  audiences  of  Sunday- 
school  teachers  and  children.  Much  sympathy  and 
help  for  the  new  mission  was  the  outcome  of  all 
this  labour,  and  with  light  hearts  they  left  Sydney 
for  Somerset,  Cape  York.  . 


PAN  DAN  us   FRUIT. 


GOURD,    BOTTLE,    AND    SPOON. 


CHAPTER  III. 


NEW   GUINEA— FOUNDING  THE  EASTERN    BRANCH 

•     OF  THE   MISSION. 

HE  advent  of  an.  earnest  and  experi- 
enced missionary  like  Mr.  Chalmers 
to  the  New  Guinea  Mission  was  a 
matter  of  deep  interest  to  all  con- 
cerned in  the  opening  up  of  that  wonderful 
country.  One  better  equipped  and  more 
suitable  for  the  work  could  not  have  been 
found.  The  eastern  part  of  the  mission, 
with  stations  in  various  parts  of  the  south- 
east peninsula,  was  under  the  care  of  the 
W.  G.  Lawes.  The  islands  in  Torres  Straits, 
stations  in  the  western  part  of  the  Papuan 
were  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  S.  Macfar- 
Fifteen  Polynesian  teachers  assisted  these 
gentlemen,  and  ten  more  accompanied  Mr.  Mac- 
farlane  and  Mr.  Chalmers  on  their  journey  east- 
ward to  found  the  long-projected  mission  at  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula.  Ever  since  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Society's  Mission,  the  Directors  had 
■46 


STONE  CLUB. 

Rev. 
and 
Gulf 
lane. 


NEW   GUINEA.        '  47 

been  desirous  of  extension  In  this  direction.  The 
testimony  of  Captain  Moresby  of  the  numerous 
villages  In  healthy  positions,  and  the  considerable 
population  to  be  found  there,  Indicated  its  suitability 
for  the  residence  of  an  English  missionary  with  a 
good  staff  of  native  teachers.  Two  years  before  Mr. 
Chalmers'  arrival,  the  Revs.  S.  Macfarlane  and  W.  G. 
Lawes  made  a  preliminary  cruise  as  far  as  South 
Cape,  and  were  well  received  by  the  people.  The  way 
was  thus  to  some  extent  prepared. 

The  headquarters  of  the  New  Guinea  Mission  was 
then  at  Somerset,  In  Queensland,  but  soon  after  it  was 
removed  to  Murray  Island. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  arrived  at  Somerset  on 
30th  September,  1877,  where  they  were  met  by  the 
mission  schooner  BertJia,  with  Mr.  Macfarlane  on 
board.  It  was  Sunday,  and  the  captain  of  their 
steamer  Invited  them  to  remain  on  board  until  she 
was  about  to  sail.  But  the  bustle  and  confusion 
caused  by  a  number  of  pearl  shelling  boats  made  it 
anything  but  a  day  of  peace,  and  rest.  These  vessels 
had  been  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamer,  and  their 
masters  were  soon  on  board  receiving  their  goods. 
The  mission  party  left  In  the  Bertha  at  five  o'clock 
on  the  Tuesday  morning. 

On  Sunday  the  21st,  they  anchored  on  the  coast, 
about  five  miles  from  Boera,  then  the  most  westerly 
station  in  New  Guinea  proper,  and  soon  after  a  canoe 
with  Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes  and  the  teacher,  PIrl,  came 
alongside.  Mr.  Lawes,  although  showing  that  he  had 
suffered  from  the  climate,  appeared  better  than  Mr. 
Chalmers  had  anticipated,  while  PIri,  who  Is  a  very 
strong,  hearty  fellow,  seemed  to  be  very  little  the 
worse  for  his  residence  in  such  a  malarious  atmo- 
sphere. 


48 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


They  arrived  at  the 'famous  harbour,  Port  Moresby, 
and  Mr.  Chalmers  says  he  was  not  charmed  with  its 
burnt-up  and  barren  appearance.  It  is  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  and  swamps  abound  in  the  ravines  l3etween 
them  and  wherever  a  piece  of  low-lying  land  is  found. 
A  mangrove  swamp  lies  close  to  the  village  of  Hanua- 
bada,  and  near  the  Mission  House  is  a  large  place 
which  is  full  of  water  in  wet  weather.  As  a  matter  of 
course,  fever  abounds. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Chalmers  landed  and  went  to  the 

school,  where  about 
forty  children  were 
learning  to  read.  In 
the  afternoon  they 
saw  many  women  in 
the  village  making 
pottery,  in  prepara- 
tion for  the  men's 
annual  visit  to  the 
Gulf  of  New  Guinea, 
where  it  would  be  ex- 
changed for  sago. 

As  they  had  a  few 

days     to    wait,     Mr. 

Macfarlane    and    Mr. 

Chalmers  took  a  trip  inland.     The  latter  was  anxious 

to  see   if  anything   could   be  done   for   the   natives 

living  on  the  mountains. 

They  returned  to  Port  Moresby  about  midday  on 
Saturday,  very  tired  and  footsore.  Mr.  Chalmers 
groaning,  "  Oh,  that  shoemakers  had  only  to]^wear  the 
boots  they  send  to  missionaries." 

■  The  following  day  being  the  first  Sunday  Mr. 
Chalmers  passed  on  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea, 
he  has  given  a  record  of  the  doings  at  Port  Moresby. 


BURNING    POTTERY    AT    HANUABADA 
(port   MORESBY). 


NEW   GUINEA. 


49 


A  great  many  of  the  inhabitants  went  out  early  in 
the  morning  with  spears,  nets,  and  dogs,  to  hunt 
wallabies  (kangaroos),  and  were  accompanied  by  some 
inland  strangers  from  villages  near  the  Astrolabe 
Range.  •  There  was  not  much  observance  of  the 
Sabbath,  but   a   friendly  chief,  named   Poi,   detained 


NATIVE  OF   PORT   MORESBY. 


some  inland  friends  from  hunting,  and  brought  them 
to  the  services.  Mr.  Lawes  preached  at  both  morn- 
ing and  afternoon  services  to  good  congregations. 
The  hunters  returned  from  a  successful  hunt  just 
before  the  afternoon  worship.     A  canoe  from   Hula 

U 


50  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

arrived,  and   her  cargo  of  old    cocoa-nuts  was  soon  . 
bartered  for  pottery. 

An  old  sorceress  died  in  the  evening,  and  great 
wailing  took  place  over  her  remains,  which  were 
buried  the  following  morning  opposite  her  house.  The 
grave  was  two  feet  deep,  and  the  corpse  was  placed 
on  mats  while  her  husband  for  a  time  lay  in  the  grave 
upon  the  body  talking  to  the  departed  spirit.  Then 
he  lay  down  by  the  grave-side  covered  with  a  mat. 
At  midday  the  grave  was  filled  in,  and  friends  sat 
over  it  weeping.  The  relatives  had  their  bodies 
blackened  and  besmeared  with  ashes  as  a  sign  of 
mourning. 

On  the  3 1st  of  October  the  Bertha  left  for  Kerepunu, 
but  Mr.  Chalmers  remained  to  accompany  Mr.  Lawes 
in  the  Mission  schooner  Mayri,  being  anxious  to  visit 
the  intervening  stations.  They  left  the  following  day, 
and  sailed  inside  the  reef  to  Tupuselei. 

As  they  went  eastward,  both  the  country  and  the 
people  improved,  and  at  Hula  they  were  surprised  at 
the  beautiful  country  and  interesting  people. 

The  next  day  they  reached  Kerepunu,  the  most 
magnificent  place  at.  present  known  in  New  Guinea, 
with  very  superior  looking  inhabitants.  It  is  a  large 
town  of  seven  districts,  with  well  arranged  streets  of 
fine  houses  ;  crotons  and  other  flowering  plants  are 
placed  in  all  directions,  and  cockatoos  are  to  be  seen 
in  front  of  nearly  every  house.  The  population  is 
divided  into  fishermen  and  planters.  All  are  workers, 
except  those  who  may  be  sick,  and  strictly  adhere 
to  the  rule  of  working  two  days  and  resting  the 
third.  This  is  very  sensible  when  we  remember  that 
theirs  is  a  tropical  climate. 

The  Bertha  had  arrived  here  four  days  before,  and 
on  the  Sunday  Mrs,  Chalmers  attended  the  morning 


NEW   GUINEA.  5  I 

service,  when  the  teacher,  Anederea,  preached  to  a 
large  congregation  from  the  platform  of  a  house. 
Mr.  Lawes  remained  to  revise  for  the  press  a  small 
book  prepared  by  Anederea.  The  Bertha  proceeded 
to  Teste  Island,  which  they  reached  in  eight  days, 
and  Mr.  Chalmers  examined  the  place  with  a  view 
to  making  it  the  headquarters  of  the  Eastern  Mission, 
but  decided  against  it. 

They  found  a  suitable  location  for  a  teacher 
between  Killerton  Island  and  South  Cape,  and  hired 
a  house  until  one  could  be  built.  The  natives  helped 
to  carry  the  teacher's  goods  to  the  house,  and .  one, 
who  kept  near  them  all  day,  considered  himself  to  be 
very  well  dressed,  having  a  pair  o{  trousers,  minus  a 
leg,  fastened  by  the  waist  around  his  head,  while  the 
remaining  leg  dangled  down  his  back. 

A  short  service  was  held  ashore  on  Sunday,  and 
about  six  hundred  natives  attended.  Mr.  Macfarlane 
preached.  The  people  were  greatly  amused  with  the 
singing.  A  ring  of  armed  and  painted  warriors  stood 
around  the  crowd. 

•  Early  the  following  morning  the  Mayri  left,  and 
after  some  beating  about  met  the  Bertha  in  the 
Fortescue  Straits,  but  the  EUaiigozvan  was  nowhere 
to  be  seen.  They  anchored  near  South-West  Point 
of  the  Island  of  Suau  (or  Stacey  Island).  Just  as 
Mr.  Chalmers  was  about  to  go  ashore,  three  large  war 
canoes  with  conch  shells  blowing,  appeared  from  the 
mainland,  and  paddled  across  the  Mayri  Straits. 
Soon  a  large  war  canoe  approached  the  vessel.  The 
islanders  wished  to  keep  all  the  barter  to  themselves, 
and  ordered  off  all  the  canoes  which  came  from  the 
mainland,  and,  at  their  departure  raised  a  shout  of 
triumph,  after  which  they  quietly  went  on  with  their 
bartering.     They  had  been  fighting  with  the  people  of 


52  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Tepauri,  and  the  islanders  seemed  to  have  had  the 
best  of  it,  as  they  told  with  great  exultation  that 
they  had  lately  killed  and  eaten  ten  of  their  enemies. 

The  excitement  was  very  great,  and  the  natives  were 
much  astonished  at  all  they  saw  in  the  Beritani 
(British)  canoes.  The  teacher  Pi's  baby  Josepha,  a 
plump  little  fellow  seven  months  old,  was  an  object  of 
great  interest.  It  seemed  a  white  child  beside  this 
very  black  race. 

Not  being  satisfied  with  the  position  as  a  site  for 
a  station,  the  missionaries  sailed  along-  the  coast, 
and,  rounding  a  headland,  came  to  a  pretty  island 
village  on  a  well-wooded  point.  It  was  a  convenient 
locality,  being  only  a  gunshot  from  the  mainland,  with 
good  anchorage.  The  natives  were  friendly,  and  led 
Mr.  Chalmers  to  see  the  fresh  water,  of  which  there 
was  a  good  supply.  He  was  overjoyed,  and  wrote, 
"  This  is  just  the  spot  we  have  been  in  search  of  We 
can  go  anywhere  from  here,  and  are  surrounded  with 
villages.     God  has  led  us." 

They  arranged  for  the  teachers  to  have  half  of  the 
largest  house  in  the  place.  The  partition  was  only 
two  feet  high,  and  the  rooms  were  ornamented  with 
skulls,  shells,  cocoa-nuts,  and  a  choice  collection  of 
human  bones.  The  skulls  were  those  of  enemies  they 
had  killed  and  eaten. 

Mr.  Chalmers  selected  a  large  sand-hill  on  the 
point  as  the  site  for  his  house.  It  had  bread-fruit  and 
other  fruit  trees  upon  it,  and  plenty  of  space  which 
he  hoped  soon  to  get  cleared  and  planted  with 
ground  crops  for  the  benefit  of  the  teachers.  The 
land  behind  the  house  plot  was  well  wooded. 

The  missionaries  went  ashore  after  breakfast,  and 
found  the  teachers  had  been  kindly  treated.  Then  the 
natives  were  sent  with  axes  to  cut  wood  for  the  house, 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN   BRANCH.  53 

and  two  of  the  large  posts  were  up  before  night.  As 
the  time  for  which  the  Bertha  was  chartered  had 
expired,  and  the  season  for  trade  winds  was  closing, 
they  had  to  use  all  efforts  to  build  the  house.  Mr. 
Macfarlane,  the  senior  missionary,  worked  well.  Part 
of  the  crews  of  the  Bertha  and  the  Mayri  joined  the 
four  teachers,  and  in  five  days  the  framework  was 
almost  completed. 

The  missionaries  now  occupied  the  teachers'  house, 
whilst  the  latter  lived  in  a  tent  made  out  of  an  old 
sail.  On  Sunday  they  had  services  in  Rarotongan  in 
addition  to  the  daily  morning  and  evening  worship. 
The  people  always  enjoyed  the  singing. 

They  had  much  trouble  to  procure  enough  plaited 
cocoa-nut  leaves  for  the  walls  and  roof  of  the  house. 
On  the  14th  of  December  the  walls  and  roof  were 
finished,  and  the  whole  party  moved  into  it.  A 
curtain  of  unbleached  calico  hung  between  the 
teachers'  end  and  that  of  the  missionaries.  Similar 
curtains  did  duty  for  windows  and  doors,  but  as  the 
fine  weather  was  breaking,  they  were  anxious  to  be 
housed,  and  were  concerned  about  the  teachers  sleep- 
ing in  the  tent  when  it  rained.  The  missionaries  also 
were  tired  of  sitting  upon  the  uneven  floor  of  a 
native  house  without  any  privacy  day  or  night. 

The  next  morning,  when  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
were  busy  at  the  new  house,  they  heard  some  people 
quarrelling,  and  saw  a  crowd  with  spears  and  clubs 
running  towards  the  teachers'  house,  where  one  of  the 
Mayri s  crew  was  levelling  a  gun  at  a  young  native 
who  was  brandishing  a  spear.  The  aim  was  perfect, 
and  Mr.  Chalmers  just  arrived  in  time  to  prevent  the 
gun  being  fired.  Pushing  the  native  aside,  he  ordered 
the  gun  to  be  put  down,  and  turning  to  the  crowd 
shouted,  "  Besi !  besi!"  (enough!).      Some  put  down 


54  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

their  weapons,  but  others  remained  threatening. 
Mr.  Chalmers  caught  the  young  native,  and  with 
some  difficulty  got  his  spear  from  him.  Poor  fellow, 
he  cried  with  rage,  but  did  no  harm.  Mr.  Chalmers 
clapped  him,  and  so  induced  him  to  go  away.  All 
day  he  sat  under  a  tree  and  sulked.  He  had  been 
accused  of  stealing  a  knife,  and  thinking  that  he  was 
going  to  be  tied  with  a  line  which  the  teacher  had 
in  his  hand,  he  raised  an  alarm. 

Many  people  from  the  mainland  had  become  very 
friendly,  and  one  party  invited  Mr.  Chalmers  to  visit 
their  village,  saying  if  he  went  in  their  canoe  they 


VOYAGE   OF    MR.    CHALMLKb    liN    A    CArsOE    TO    Tllii    MAliNLAND. 

would  return  with  him.  He  went,  and  was  very 
kindly  received. 

The  Mayri  returned  on  the  2ist  of  December,  and 
reported  that  the  teachers  at  East  Cape  were  sick, 
but  the  natives  were  still  very  kind. 

Mr.  Chalmers  resolved  to  visit  the  settlement,  with 
which  the  people  of  Suau  were  at  feud.  They  tried 
very  hard  to  dissuade  him,  and  brought  skulls,  saying 
his  would  be  like  them,  and  adorn  their  enemy's  war 
canoe  or  hang  outside  the  chief's  house.  He  felt  sure 
it  was  because  they  feared  the  hoop-iron,  axes,  beads, 
and  cloth  would  also  be  given  at  Tepauri,  and  upon 
his  persisting  they  left  him  to  his  fate. 


FOUNDING   THE  EASTERN   BRANCH.  55 

Mr.  Chalmers  was  accompanied  by  the  teacher 
whom  he  hoped  to  leave  there.  The  people  received 
them  kindly,  and  showed  them  the  place  inland  where 
water  was  obtained. 

The  Suau  people  were  disappointed  that  no  harm 
had  befallen  their  missionary.  He  had  been  unwell 
for  some  days,  and  was  worse  the  day  after  his  return, 
so  they  felt  comforted,  and  assured  him  it  was  because 
of  his  visit  to  Tepauri. 

The  people  were  very  troublesome,  and  caused 
much  discomfort  by  their  thieving  propensities. 
Among  other  things  a  camp-oven  was  stolen.  The 
missionaries  felt  the  loss  much,  and  bore  patiently 
these  things,  having  anticipated  them.  But  a  greater 
,  trial  came  from  a  very  unexpected  source. 

On  the  29th  of  December  one  of  the  crew  of  the 
Mayri  warned  Mr.  Chalmers  that  the  captain  was 
brusque  with  the  natives,  and  had  threatened  to  cut 
the  head  off  one  of  them  with  a  sword. 

Soon  after,  as  he  was  paying  some  men  for  building 
a  cook-house,  a  loud  noise  was  heard,  and  he  saw  the 
natives  who  had  been  at  work  in  the  saw-pit  running 
away,  and  heard  firing  in  the  direction  of  the  vessel. 
He  put  his  bag  in  the  house  and  ran  to  the  shore. 
Some  natives  were  on  board  the  Mayri,  and  endeav- 
ouring to  get  her  ashore.  Two  of  the  crew  on  shore, 
armed  with  muskets,  were  trying  to  get  their  boat 
afloat,  but  the  natiyes  would  not  let  it  go.  Had  Mr. 
Chalmers  not  been  near  they  certainly  would  have 
fired.  Soon  the  natives  on  the  JMayri  jumped  over- 
board, and  the  firing  became  brisker.  He  rushed 
along  the  beach,  calling  on  the  natives  to  take  to  the 
bush,  and  to  the  people  on  the  vessel  to  cease  firing. 
Peace  was  restored,  and  soon  great  wailing  came 
from    the    chief's    house.      A   man   had    been   shot 


56  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

through  the  arm  and  leg,  and  another  in  the  left  arm 
and  chest.  He  ran  to  the  Mission  House  for  some 
medicine,  and  applied  it  to  both  men. 

The  house  was  surrounded  by  armed  natives,  and 
Mrs.  Chalmers  was  the  only  calm  person  there.  They 
kept  shouting,  "  Bocasi,  Bocasi,"  the  name  of  the  man 
whom  the  captain  had  threatened  in  the  morning, 
and  Mr.  Chalmers  learnt  at  the  chief's  house  that  he 
was  on  board  the  vessel.  He  found  a  small  canoe, 
covered  with  blood,  and  two  natives  paddled  him  off. 
The  captain  sat  on  deck  looking  white,  and  in  reply 
to  the  question,  "  Is  there  still  a  man  on  board  ?  "  said, 
"  Yes."  "  Is  he  shot  ?  "  "  Yes."  "  Dead  ?  "  "  Yes." 
He  was  lying  below,  and  it  was  risky  either  to  remain 
long  on  board  or  to  land  with  the  body ;  neither  was 
it  advisable  for  the  body  to  be  sent  ashore  first,  as 
Mr.  Chalmers  might  then  be  prevented  from  landing  at 
'  all.  So  he  got  into  the  canoe  where  one  man  was  sitting, 
and  said  to  the  other,  who  was  getting  up  the  body 
to  place  it  in  the  canoe, "  Not  in  this  one,  but  a  larger 
one,"  They  paddled  ashore,  and  he  hastened  to  the 
house. 

The  captain  said  that  the  people  attempted  to  take 
his  life,  and  this  big  man,  armed  with  a  large  sugar 
knife,  came  close  up  before  he  shot  him  dead.  The 
captain's  foot  was  dreadfully  cut,  there  was  a  spear 
wound  in  his  side,  and  several  other  wounds. 

The  chief  people  continued  friendly,  but  when  the 
body  was  landed  great  wailing  prevailed,  and  spears, 
&c.,  went  up  and  down  frequently.  Armed  men  in 
canoes  came  from  all  parts,  and  some  advised  the 
missionaries  to  leave  during  the  night,  as  they  would 
surely  be  murdered.  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  opposed, 
and  said  the  vessel  was  too  small  for  such  a  party, 
and  not  provisioned,  and  to  leave  here  would  mean 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN    BRANCH.  57 

losing  their  foothold,  and  imperilling  the  other 
teachers  settled  near.  They  came  there  for  Christ's 
work,  and  He  would  protect  them.  This  sanctified 
common-sense  prevailed. 

The  vessel  left  for  Murray  Island  in  the  evening, 
after  some  medicine  had  been  sent  for  the  captain, 
and  a  present  was  prepared  for  the  people. 

Early  next  morning  the  people  came  and  accepted 
the  present.  Some  of  the  chiefs  assured  them  that 
they  could  go  on  with  their  work  and  no  one  would 
injure  them.  But  they  deemed  it  well  to  be  cautious, 
and  not  expose  themselves  for  a  time  unnecessarily. 

The  people  gathered  from  all  parts  in  large  war 
canoes,  and  were  very  impudent,  jumping  over  the 
fence  and  taking  no  heed  of  what  was  said.  The  chief 
of  the  settlement  to  which  the  man  Bocasi  belonged 
came  and  was  very  friendly,  so  Mr.  Chalmers  gave 
him  a  present. 

In  the  midst  of  this  anxiety  he  received  an  invita- 
tion to  attend  a  cannibal  feast  at  a  neighbouring 
village.  Some  said  two  men  and  a  child  were  the 
chief  attractions  on  the  ineftti,  others  asserted  five 
adults  and  a  child.  The  feast  was  held,  and  some  of 
their  friends  appeared  with  pieces  of  human  flesh 
hanging  from  their  neck  and  arms.  The  child  was 
saved  for  another  occasion,  being  considered  too  small. 

So  the  year  ended  amid  darkening  clouds,  the  little 
band  exhorting  one  another  in  patience  to  possess 
their  souls,  and  feeling  that  God  was  truly  a  refuge 
unto  them. 

In  February,  1878,  Mr.  Chalmers  had  to  go  to 
Cooktown  for  stores.  He  did  not  like  to  leave  his 
wife,  as  the  attitude  of  the  people  had  been  so 
unfriendly.  She  refused  to  go,  saying,  "  We  came 
here  for  Christ's  sake,  and  He  will  protect  us." 


58  ^  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

She  was  very  ill  when  he  left,  but  bore  up  bravely. 
The  Chief,  Meau,  and  others  brought  her  food  daily, 
and  she  heard  an  old  man,  in  conversation  outside  the 
house,  say,  "Tamate  has  showed  his  confidence  in  us 
by  leaving  his  wife  in  our  care,  and  that  he  means  to 
return  as  he  said.  Let  us  be  kind,  giving  her  plenty 
of  food." 

They  were  all  pleased  that  she  remained,  and  very 
considerately  left  her  alone  to  do  as  she  pleased." 
When  any  brought  food  they  walked  quickly 
away.  In  spite  of  her  illness  she  managed  to  look 
after  the  teachers.  Some  of  them  had  fever  and 
wanted  much  care.  Those  who  were  recovering,  yet 
felt  the  languidness  resulting  from  it,  she  found  work 
for,  and  thus  assisted  their  recovery.  Each  day  she 
roused  them,  and  with  fresh  efforts  they  tried  to  work 
again.  Many  little  dainties  were  sent  to  tempt  their 
failing  appetites,  and  their  medicine  had  to  be  given 
to  them  as  if  they  were  children.  The  baby,  little 
Josepha,  became  very  feverish  and  ill,  but  the  teacher's 
wife  who  had  adopted  him,  would  not  use  any'  of 
the  remedies  prescribed. 

On  the  19th  of  February  there  was  fighting  between 
three  villages.  Four  men  were  killed,  and.  a  cannibal 
feast  was  held  the  next  morning  with  great  rejoicings. 

Mrs.  Chalmers  now  exerted  herself  to  set  the 
teachers  portions  of  the  gospels  to  translate,  and  by 
way  of  stimulus  and  rivalry  gave  the  women  a  hymn 
to  translate  for  the  services  next  Sabbath,  and  when 
that  was  done,  gave  them  the  third  chapter  of  St. 
John's  Gospel  to  translate.  The  husbands  looked 
very  black  at  this  invasion  of  their  domain  of  work, 
but  it  roused  them  up  thoroughly,  and  they  taught 
school  and  translated  with  much  energy  after  that. 

On  the  25th,  she  was  too  ill  to  rise,  but  heard  that 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN    BRANCH. 


59 


another  teacher  was  down  with  fever  and  had  been 
bad  all  night.  She  made  an  effort  and  went  to  see 
him.  After  giving  him  medicine  she  sent  over,  every 
two  hours,  nourishing  food,  such  as  sago,  beef-tea, 
arrowroot,  &c.,  and  between  them,  suitable  drinks. 
He  seemed  a  little  better  the  next  day. 

The  weather  had  been  very  depressing,  dull,  sultry 
days,  with  much  thunder,  for  three  weeks,  but  without 
any  rain  ;  on  the  26th  of  February  heavy  rain  fell,  and 
the  improved  atmosphere  seemed  to  help  the  invalids. 


NATIVE    HOUSE. 


The  sick  teacher  was  able  to  dress  and  sit  for  a  little 
time  in  front  of  the  Mission  House. 

A  native  house  was  carried  past,  complete,  to  be 
placed  on  another  site.  The  affair  had  quite  a 
Yankee-like  appearance. 

On  the  2nd  of  March,  the  same  teacher  .was  taken  ill 
again  in  the  night.  Mrs.  Chalmers  believed  he  would 
have  died  had  she  not  been  called.  Some  of  his  com- 
rades and  their  wives  were  dressing  him  in  white  shirt 
and  trousers,  and  others  sat   by  him  in  the  middle 


6o  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

of  the  floor  crying.  She  soon  set  them,  to  work, 
kicked  away  the  white  clothes  and  made  them  get 
flannel  ones,  and  lift  him  on  to  his  mats  and  pillows  ; 
then  put  three  blankets  over  him  which  were  lying 
near,  and  sent  for  her  heavy  counterpane.  Then 
some  sweating  medicine  was  given,  as  he  had  a 
deathly  chill,  but  he  did  not  get  warm.  She  applied 
hot  water  to  his  feet  and  gave  him  hot  brandy.  That 
had  the  desired  effect,  and  after  remaining  until  he 
perspired  and  felt  sleepy,  she  sent  all  the  rest  to  bed 
except  his  wife. 

All  now  anxiously  looked  for  Mr.  Chalmers'  return, 
and  a  close  watch  was  kept  for  the  vessel.  The 
teachers  all  improved  but  little  baby  Josepha  grew 
worse. 

On  the  night  of  the  7th  of  March  a  vessel  was 
sighted.  No  one  had  a  thought  of  it  being  other  than 
the  Ellangowaii^  and  every  preparation  was  made,  dry 
clothes  ready,  and  expectation  at  the  highest,  when  it 
was  found  to  be  Mr.  Goldie's  little  yacht.  The  nights 
were  now  very  stormy. 

On  March  the  13th  little  Josepha  went  to  Jesus  at 
1 1  P.M.  The  poor  boy  suffered  much  for  several  days 
before  he  died. 

The  following  morning  he  was  buried.  The 
Ellangoivan  arrived  just  in  time  for  Mr.  Chalmers  to 
conduct  the  service. 

New  life  and  energy  seemed  to  be  infused  into  the 
fever-worn  band.  All  improved  under  his  cheery 
care,  and  the  Mission  work  was  pushed  on  with 
greater  zeal. 

One  day,  soon  after  this,  Mr.  Chalmers  was  absent 
on  the  mainland.  A  great  noise  was  heard  from  the 
village  and  those  at  the  Mission  House  learnt  that  a 
fight  was  going  on.      Away  ran  Mrs.  Chalmers  down 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN    BRANCH. 


6l 


the  hill  and  along  the  village  street  into  the  midst 
of  the  combatants.  Seizing  the  chiefs'  spears  she 
made  them  lower  those  weapons.  Then  turning  to 
the  people,  she  begged  and  entreated  them  to  desist. 
Savages  can  appreciate  courage  as  keenly  as  any  one. 
Every  spear  dropped.     But  she  would  not  leave  them. 


MRS.    CHALMERS    STOPPING   THE   FIGHT  AT   SUAU. 

The  entreaties  were  renewed  that  peace  should  be 
made ;  and  out  of  respect  to  this  fearless  woman 
those  grim  cannibals  sat  down  and  there  and  then 
made  peace. 

In  April,  1878,  Mr.  Chalmers  began  that  series  of 
journeys  in  New  Guinea  which  has  added  so  much 


62  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

to  our  knowledge  of  the  country.  The  object  of 
these  has  been  to  find  what  places  are  healthy,  and 
where  suitable  groups  of  villages  offered  positions  for 
native  teachers.  He  has  also  made  friends,  and,  by 
kindness  and  small  presents,  opened  the  way  for 
future  intercourse.  This  has  been  very  dangerous 
and  difficult  work,  requiring  much  tact,  self-possession 
and  fertility  of  resource.  By  the  helping  hand  of  God 
he  has  been  enabled  successfully  to  carry  out  these 
objects,  and  now  there  is  a  chain  of  stations  along  the 
\vhole  south  coast  of  the  peninsula,  and  many  more 
inland  at  places  easily  accessible  from  the  sea-shore. 

He  was  accompanied  in  his  first  coast  journey  by 
Mrs.  Chalmers.  They  went  in  the  Mission  steamer, 
Ellangoivan,  and  visited  one  hundred  and  five  villages, 
the  inhabitants  of  ninety  seeing  a  white  man  for 
the  first  time.  From  the  commencement  of  these 
journeys  he  has  always  travelled  unarmed,  trusting 
in  God  for  protection.  They  visited  the  villages  in 
Farm  Bay.  The  people,  on  their  leaving,  could  not 
understand  how  the  steamer  was  able  to  move  without 
sails,  and  one  canoe,  whose  occupants  would  not 
leave  the  vessel's  side,  was  pulled  under  the  water. 
Both  canoe  and  people  reappeared  some  distance 
astern,  to  the  great  merriment  of  their  friends,  and 
none  the  worse  for  their  ducking. 

At  Meikle  Bay,  Mr.  Chalmers  walked  inland  with 
the  chief  and  people.  The  mate  of  the  steamer  shot 
a  parrot,  upon  which  the  whole  party,  with  great 
shouting  and  hands  to  their  ears,  ran  several  miles 
to  their  homes.  They  found  behind  the  hills,  as 
Mr.  Chalmers  expected,  a  large  sheet  of  water  called 
Poroai,  or  "  Piggish  w^ater,"  which  was  in  every  way 
characteristic  of  its  name ;  they  returned  home  after 
dark'  along  the  dry  bed  of  a  stream,  accompanied  only. 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN    BRANCH.  63 

by  the  chief.  As  people  there  only  travel  at  night 
when  bent  on  fighting,  the  natives  in  the  villages  they 
passed  were  much  alarmed,  but  not  more  so  than  the 
chief.  With  what  nimbleness  he  ascended  the  ladder 
of  his  house.  How  his  crying  wives  rejoiced.  The 
natives  had  brought  back  a  sad  tale  about  the  mis- 
doings of  the  gun.  Now  the  bird  is  produced  by  the 
chief,  who  declares  Jie  was  not  afraid.  But  he  looked 
pale  for  a  native,  and  very  readily  said,  "  Good-bye, 
Tamat^  "  (Mr.  Chalmers's  native  name). 

.  In  Ellangowan  Bay  the  savages  surrounded  them, 
and  they  had  much  difficulty  in  leaving.  At 
Orangerie  Bay  the  Chinese  cook  pursued  a  man 
who  had  stolen  his  knife,  and  nearly  involved  them 
in  a  conflict  with  over  a  hundred  canoes  filled  with 
armed  warriors.  They  were  intimidated  by  the  steam 
whistle. 

Mr.  Chalmers  had  often  heard  of  a  Women's  Land 
inhabited  only  by  Amazons,  who  were  famous  farmers, 
canoeists,  and  able  to  hold  their  own  before  all 
comers.  After  some  search  they  found,  at  Mailiukolo 
where  he  landed,  hundreds  of  women  standing  under 
the  houses,  but  no  men.  As  he  walked  up  the  beach 
they  gave  one  great  scream,  and  he  halted.  Throwing 
some  beads  and  cloth  down,  he  walked  away  to  the 
boat.  After  some  attempts,  a  Jittle  girl,  with  much 
trepidation,  ran  on  all  fours  like  a  cat,  very  lightly 
lest  her  approach  should  cause  the  white  man  to  look 
round,  picked  up  the  cloth  and  beads,  and  flew  back. 
They  were  eagerly  snatched  at  and  examined.  After 
a  few  more  temptings  he  was  besieged  by  a  noisy 
crowd,  and  was  glad  to  escape  to  the  boat.  He  went 
back  with  some  more  beads,  but  the  old  ladies  ordered 
him  off,  as  they  were  too  frightened  to  come  near 
him,  and  the  young  ladies  kept  all  the  beads  they  had 


'64  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

secured.  Long  after  he  left,  those  old  crabbed  voices 
could  be  heard  scolding  the  younger  and  more 
fortunate  ladies.  They  found  that  the  island  did 
not  produce  food,  and  the  men  and  boys  went  to 
the  mainland  to  their  plantations  and  to  fight,  being 
away  many  weeks,  and  leaving  a  guard  of  only  a  few 
men  at  home. 

While  resting  in  an  inland  hut,  and  tracing  their 
course  on  a  chart,  some  peculiar  drops  fell  upon  it 
from  a  parcel  overhead.  Mr.  Chalmers  jumped  up 
and  discovered  that  they  were  grandmother's  remains 
being  dried.  .  The  owner  was  called,  and  walked 
away  with  the  parcel.  Unfortunately  the  incident 
took  away  their  appetite  for  the  dinner  which  was 
being  prepared. 

When  visiting  Aroma  they  had  a  very  narrow 
escape.  They  were  ashore,  and  had  to  walk  several 
miles  before  a  suitable  place  could  be  found  for  the 
boat  to  take  them  off.  They  came  upon  a  crowd  of 
armed  men  and  women  about  two  miles  from  where 
the  boat  was  to  call  for  them.  The  people  followed, 
and  the  teacher,  who  was  with  Mr.  Chalmers,  heard 
them  talking  about  the  best  place  to  kill  them.  Tamate 
was  in  front,  walking  between  two  men.  He  held  a 
hand  of  each,  and  so  prevented  them  using  their  clubs. 
The  people  tried  to  wrest  the  teacher's  gun  from  him. 
They  endeavoured  to  trip  them  up,  and  jostled  them, 
but  on  they  went.  Two  men  with  clubs  who  walked 
behind  were  disarmed  by  two  women  who  ran  away. 
They  prayed  in  silence  with  full  hearts.  A  man 
came  rushing  up  and  seized  the  club  of  the  man 
•next  Mr.  Chalmers,  and  threw  it  into  the  sea.  Next, 
an  old  woman  asked  the  warriors  what  they  meant, 
and  talked  so  as  to  distract  their  thoughts.  An  old 
chief  now  came  crying  out,  "  Mine  is  the  peace,  what 


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65 


E 


66         .  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

have  the  foreigners  done  that  you  want  to  kill  them  ?  ", 
They  now  talked  loudly, — there  was  still  time.  When 
near  the  village,  Mr.  Chalmers  caused  a  diversion  by 
emptying  his  satchel,  and  a  friendly  native,  called 
Kapumari,  with  the  chiefs,  forced  a  way  through  the 
crowd,  down  which  they  went  into  the  water.  The 
chiefs  called,  "  Go  quick,  go  quick,"  and  right  well 
they  swam.  They  reached  the  boat ;  but  the  Chinese 
sailor  was  nervous  and  nearly  let  her  drift  ashore. 
Mr.  Chalmers  got  her  sails  round,  then  they  pulled 
her  head  out  to  sea  with  the  oars,  and  away  they 
sailed  to  Kerepunu,  thanking  God  for  their  deliver- 
ance. 

Mr.  Chalmers,  a  week  afterwards,  learnt  from  the 
friendly  chief  who  held  the  crowd  back  that  it  was  the 
practice  of  the  people  of  Aroma  to  kill  all  strangers. 

They  explored  the  country  behind  Kerepunu,  and 
went  on  to  Port  Moresby. 

In  May,  Mr.  Chalmers  and-  Mr.  Macfarlane  visited 
the  stations  in  Torres  Straits  called  Mabuiag  Tauan 
and  Saibai.  These  are  islands  upon  which  Mr.  Mac- 
farlane had  placed  teachers,  and  from  which  some 
candidates  were  expected  for  the  Training  Institution 
he  then  contemplated.  They  were  very  pleased  with 
the  condition  of  affairs,  and  several  promising  youths 
were  found  who  were  eager  to  study. 

Mr.  Chalmers  reported  then  to  the  Secretary  of 
the  Society  in  London  that  his  wife  was  very  ill,  and 
.that,  unless,  she  improved,  he  would  send  her  to 
Sydney.  Mrs.  Chalmers'  health  did  not  improve. 
The  fever  made  great  ravages  in  her  delicate  frame, 
and  early  in  October  Mr.  Chalmers  took  her  over  to 
Cooktown,  and  sent  her  by  steamer  to  Sydney.  He 
returned  to  Suau,  arriving  on  the  17th  of  October,  and 
there  was  true  sorrow  among  the  natives  when  it  was 


i|!|i|l'«»iri;'?ii!|!;i!li!'.:|j||ii:j|| 


67 


68  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

found  that  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  not  with  him.  The 
teachers  and  their  wives,  however,  were  pleased  at 
a  prospect  of  having  her  back  in  January.  They 
were  now  all  well  and  happy. 

The  Sunday  after  Mr.  Chalmers  returned  there  was 
a  comical  scene  in  church.  A  boy  came  in,  dressed 
in  a  shirt  and  looking  very  important.  A  large 
.congregation  assembled,  and,  as  service  was  about  to 
commence,  one  of  the  big  lads  of  Ugativaro,  the 
Rarotonga  teacher,  stalked  in  with  a  jacket  in  his 
hand.  Espying  the  youth  in  the  shirt,  he  ordered 
him  to  undress.  The  boy  got  up  and  was  helped  by 
several  others  out  of  the  stolen  shirt,  which  was 
handed  over  to  its  rightful  owner,  who  immediately 
proceeded  to  dress,  assisted  by  quite  a  large  number 
of  the  congregation. 

Mr.  Chalmers  now  paid  short  visits  to  places  on 
the  mainland.  At  one  place  the  teacher  put  him 
ashore,  ill  with  fever,  and  got  a  house  for  him.  By 
treatment  he  soon  recovered.  The  natives  thought 
they  were  highly  honoured  by  the  white  man  running 
into  their  village  when  sick. 

At  another  place  they  could  only  get  a  small  house 
with  a  large  fire  in  it.  Eight  of  them  had  to  sleep  in 
a  house  no  larger  than  an  ordinary  bed.  It  blew 
hard  and  rained  in  torrents,  so  they  were  glad  when 
morning  came.  •    .         .  • 

Mr.  Chalmers  felt  his  wife's  absence  much.  He 
had  several  attacks  of  fever,  and  for  three  weeks  was 
poorly.     Then  it  returned  at  irregular  intervals. 

One  evening  he  records  that  fish  were  so  plentiful 
in  the  straits  before  the  Mission  House  that  Pusa 
caught  five  large  ones  with  two  throws  of  his  spear. 
With  his  failing  appetite,  the  result  of  fever,  Tamate 
was  glad  to  have  fish. 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN   BRANCH.  .   69 

Pi  Vaine  looked  after  the  house,  and  was  very 
successful  in  making  bread  in  English  fashion. 

For  some  time  people  had  visited  Suau  from 
various  parts  of  the  mainland,  but  Mr.  Chalmers 
could  not  tell  where  their  villages  were  situated. 
Some  came  long  distances,  and  he  had  promised  to 
visit  them.  Being  also  desirous  of  crossing  the 
3astern  end  of  New  Guinea,  he  left  with  a  party,  on 
the  13th  of  August,  1878,  and  crossed  to  Varauru  in 
Catamaran  Bay. 

They  stayed  for  the  night  with  the  chief  Quaiani 
in  Varauru.  At  two  A.M.  the  old  chief  awoke  Mr. 
Chalmers  to  relate  a  dream.  In  crossing  a  river 
some  had  been  washed  away,  others  fogged  on  the  . 
mountains,  and  there  was  a  dreadful  thunder-storm. . 
After  telling  this  he  said,  "  Will  you  really  go  ?  No, 
you  must  not  go."  "  Nonsense  !  "  said  Tamate,  "  we 
must  go."  All  natives  believe  in  dreams,  and  follow 
implicitly  the  impressions  thus  received.  Their 
theory  is  that  during  sleep  the  spirit  leaves  the  body 
and  wanders.  It  gets  information  of  coming  events 
from  friendly  spirits,  and  is  thus  forewarned  how  to 
act. 

They  left  soon  after  five  o'clock,  and  were  plentifully 
supplied,  by  the  kindness  of  friends-  at  Brook  Street 
Congregational  Church,  Sydney,  with  hoop-iron,  red  • 
cloth,  fish-hooks,  and  other  things  to  barter  for  food. 
The  party  consisted  of  twenty-eight  persons,  five  of 
whom  were  women. 

They  travelled  through  swampy  land,  then  ascended 
gradually,  passing  through  thick  bush,  and  descended 
by  the  side  of  a  fine  waterfall.  Wading  into  the 
stream  below,  they  followed  its  course  :  for  some 
distance.  They  then  ascended  a  spur  of  Cloudy 
Mountain  to  level  ground   in   a  very  fine  valley,  and 


70      •    :  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

along  another  stream  until  they  reached  a  large 
river  called  the  Gara.  While  resting  on  the  banks  it 
rained  heavily;  damping  both  their  clothes  and  their 
spirits.  The  natives  threatened  to  return,  but  Mr. 
Chalmers  reassured  them,  and  they  pushed  on.  When 
the  sun  shone  out  brightly  they  crossed  the  river 
and  went  away  cheerfully,  the  natives  shouting  with 
delight.  After  a  time  they  came  to  where  a  woman 
'had  died.  Here  the  chief  took  a  branch  and  struck 
his  feet,  so  that  their  progress  might  not  be  retarded 
by  her  spirit.  '  Then  it  began  to  drizzle,  and  it  was 
amusing  to  see  the  chief  leading  and  talking  to  the 
rain,  chewing  betel-nut,  spitting  it  out,  and  waving  his 
•hand  that  the  rain  might  go  away.  He  was  angry 
that  it  did  not  do  so,  and  bid  Mr.  'Chalmers  use  his 
powers.  Mr.  Chalmers  laughed,  but  his  companion, 
Mr.  Chester,  shouted,  and  soon  it  cleared .  up.  So 
all  the  natives  accredited  him  with  great  power. 

After  a  weary  tramp  they  waited  for  the  stragglers 
to  come  up  before  attempting  a  steep  ascent.  In  some 
parts  it  was  dangerous  ;  but  all  safely  arrived  on  the 
top  of  Unuga,  a  ridge  of  Cloudy  Mountain,  270D  feet 
high.  Here  they  cooked  their  first  good  meal,  and 
hoped  to  enjoy  a  rest  ;  but  the  chief  was  afraid  of 
mountain  spirits,  and  insisted  on  Mr.  Chalmers  going 
on  with  him  to  the  first  village.  Between,  seven  and 
eight  in  the  evening  they  reached  the  village  of 
Diodio.  Mr.  Chalmers  was  soon  asleep  ;  but  Quaiani 
had  an  interested  and  excited  audience  of  all  the 
village,  as  he  related  wonderful  stories  of  the  dimdims 
(foreign  canoes),  and  of  the  great  chief  Mamoose 
(Mr.  Chester),  who  was  camping  on  the  mountains. 
Throughout  the  night  he  held  forth.  Once  when  Mr. 
Chalmers  awoke,  he  was  telling  of  the  large  war 
canoe  (H.M.S.   Sappho),  which  came  to    Suau.     He 


■      FOUNDING   THE  EASTERN    BRANCH.  J I 

described  it  as  a  floating  island,  with  a  large  popula- 
tion, all  men,  and  immense  guns,  beyond  description 
in  size  and  number. 

The  district  is  called  Lariva  ;  with  eighteen  villages 
on    fine    rich    land,    and    amidst    splendid     groves 
of  cocoa-nut  trees.     Soon  after  Mr.  Chester  and  his 
party  came  up  in  the   morning,  a  presentation  was 
made   of   two   pigs    and    quantities    of    yams,   taro, 
sugar-cane,  and  bananas.     Coming  to  the  platform  in 
front  of  the  house,  a  native  stepped  forward  and  offered 
the   present,  with  a  short  speech   to  the  effect  that  . 
they  were  glad  Mr.  Chalmers  had  come.     They  had 
heard  from  their  friends,  but  doubted  much  of  what 
had  been  told  them,  now  they  had  seen  the  foreigners ' 
for  themselves,  and  could  only  wonder.    Soon  a  grand 
feast  was   prepared  under  the  catering   of  Quaiani. 
Whilst   the   cooking   went   on,   an    admiring    crowd 
surrounded  the  white  men,  examining  them.     They 
were  puzzled  by  their  boots,  and  discussed  whether 
they   were    really   skin    or   not.      The   singing   was 
thoroughly   appreciated ;    and   "  Auld    Lang   Syne," 
with  the  joining  of  hands,,  will  not  soon  be  forgotten. 
There    was    a    large    congregation    at   the   evening 
service,  which  Quaiani  explained  to  them  as  far  as  he 
was  able. 

On  the  morning  of  the  following  day  Mr.  Chalmers 
and  his  party  ascended  the  mountain  while  the 
chief  and  a  few  men  stayed  on  an  island  in  the 
river  to  perform  a  ceremony  for  the  safety  and  success 
of  the  journey.  .They  said  it  was  all  right,  and  the 
chief  Bunera,  of  Vagavaga,  would  receive  them  kindly," 
and  have  all  things  prepared  for  them.  Pi,  one  of  the 
teachers,  became  ill,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  remained 
behind  and  gave  -him  some  medicine.  An  old 
•    sorcerer  also  tried   his  hand  at  healing,  by  praying 


7^  JAMES   CHALMERS.' 

and  squirting  betel  juice  to  the  four  cardinal  points, 
and  on  Pi's  stomach,  and  then  breathing  on  him. 
.  The  chief  was  much  troubled  about  his  dream,  and 
was  rather  disappointed  that  it  did  not  come  to  pass, 
as  Pi  was  better,  and  the  party  proceeded  cheerily  the' 
next  morning.  They  crossed  the  mountain  and 
descended  to  Opepago,  a  village  2700  feet  above  the 
sea,  where  they  feasted  on  pig,  yams,  and  taro.  They 
were  urged  to  stay  for  further  dainties,  but  pressed  on 
for  Vagavaga.  However,  the  chief  and  his  men  were 
determined  to  do  a.  little  stroke  for  themselves,  and 
make  peace  with  Barogofigofi,  by  the  prestige  which 
would  accrue  to  them  as  the  guides  and  friends  of  the 
foreigners.  Mr.  Chalmers  saw  they  were  determined 
not  to  reach  the  sea  that  night,  and  that  they  had 
made  up  their  minds  to  sleep  at  a  particular  village, 
but  he  did  not  know  why.  A  halt  was  called  on  the 
banks  of  a  stream,  and  incantations  by  Quaiani  took 
place.  A  seed  from  some  tree  was  beaten  soft,  and 
squeezed  into  the  eyes  of  Quaiani  and  his  son-in-law 
Berige,  who,  with  their  followers,  bathed  and  adorned 
themselves  with  leaves  and  flowers.  They  approached 
the  village  cautiously,  ascending  a  steep  hill.  All 
the  way  the  chief  plucked  leaves,  addressing  them 
and  throwing  them  away.  The  village  was  entered 
in  silence,  and  they  marched  round  a  number  of  men 
sitting,  on  a  circle  of  stones  in  the  centre,  until  a  man 
\yhom  they  found  to  be  chief,  sprang  up,  followed  by 
the  others,  seized  their  spears  and  clubs,  and  danced 
round.  The  party  now  sat  on  the  stones,  while  the 
mimic  performance  of  clubbing  and  spearing  Quaiani 
went  on.  Mr.  Chester  thought  it  looked  serious,  and 
told  Mr.  Chalmers  if  they  touched  the  old  chief  he 
would  shoot.  But  Tamate  only  laughed,-  knowing 
the  pistols  were  safely  packed  in  the  swags. 


lilKDS   OF   PARADISE. 


73 


74  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Q'uaiani  and  his  son  made  presents  of  tomahawks 
and  hoop  iron,  which  were  accepted.  An  old  woman 
came,  threw  her  arms  round  him,  and  they  cried  • 
together.  Another  woman  and  some  men  followed, 
and  when  done,  the  old  man  danced  round,  and  said, 
"  Here  are  great  foreign  chiefs  come  to  see  you,  and 
here  am  I  and  my  people ;  it  is  now  peace."  They 
were  feasted,  and  mad'e  comfortable  for  the  night. 
The  village  had  a  splendid  outlook  over  Milne  Bay. 
In  the  morning  they  went  on  Vagavaga,  but,  after, 
being  iiitroduced  to  the  chief  Bunera,  he  disappeared, 
and  was  seen  no  more.  They  were  unable  to  proceed 
to  Orangerie  Bay  and  Farm  Bay,  because  of 'trouble 
between  the  tribes  ;  so  the  steamer  Ellang02va71.cd.TnG 
to  Discovery  Bay  and  took  them  on  to  South  Cape. 
It  was  a  m^ost  enjoyable  trip,  though  somewhat  damp 
and  rough.  The  mountains  which  they  crossed  are 
quite  distinct  from  the  Owen  Stanley  Range,  and 
Mr.  Chalmers  named  it  the  Lome  Range. 

Mr.  Chalmers  now  employed  part  of  his  time  writ- 
ing Scripture  stories,  and  translating  hymns.  The 
weather  was  very  broken.  He  writes :  "  We  can 
reach  the  people  sooner  by  singing  the  Gospel  than 
by  preaching  it.  The  story  will  be  the  same,  only 
the  method  improved."  '  • 

A  pig  which  was  tearing  round  Mr.  Chalmers' 
garden  was  killed  by  a  teacher.  The  owner  came  in  • 
a  great  rage,  the  villagers  with  him,  and  tore  down 
the  fence.  Mr.  Chalmers  paid  a  good  "price,  and  the 
pig  was  given  up  to  him  for  food.  The  owner  after- 
wards came  and  apologised  for  his  anger,  and  said  he 
did  not  really  mean  harm,  but  was  so  enraged  he 
could  not  restrain  himself. 

On  the  nth  of  November,  1878,  ihe  John  Williams 
arrived  at  Suau  with  twenty  teachers  on  board  from 


FOUNDING   THE   EASTERN    BRANCH. 


75 


the  islands  of  Rarotonga,  Raiatea,  Niue,  and  the 
Loyalty  Islands.  There  was  also  a  large  quantity  of 
stores.  The  natives  were  even  then  so  one  in  feeling 
with  the  Mission  that  they  spoke  of  the,  John-  Williams 
as  "  our  ship."  Several  steamers  were  then  in  port, 
and  Mr.  Chalmers  thought  they  were  rather  frightened 
at  so  many  foreign  dimdims  (large  war  canoes)  being 
there. 

Mrs.    Chalmers,   on   arriving   at   Sydney,  went   to 
stay    with    Mrs.   Jones    of    Burwood    and    received 


NATIVE  HOUSE  AT  SUAU 


every  loving  attention  and  care.  Her  constitution 
was  greatly  shattered  by  repeated  attacks  of  fever, 
and  she  grew  weaker  and  weaker  until  at  length  her 
enfeebled  frame  reached  the  utmost  limit  of  attenua-" 
tion,  and  she  passed  away  from  utter  exhaustion. 
She  would  not  allow  Mr.  Chalmers  to  be  sent  for 
knowing  that  he  was  engaged  in  trying  and  important 
work,  and  could  not  bear  the  thought  of  his  being 
called  away.  When  they  did  send,  it  was  too  late. 
Her  mind  .to  the  last  was  bright  and  vigorous,  and 
she   loved   to  talk  about  the  prospects  of  the  New 


y6  .        JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Guinea  Mission.  Full  of  faith  and  hope,  she  died  on 
the  20th  of  February,  1879.  Her  last  words  were, 
"  More  light."  That  desire  was  speedily  realised,  and 
eternal  light  granted.  "         •    •   .     ' 

This  exemplary  Christian  lady  had  many  sincere 
mourners  beyond  the  circle  of  her  family  and  friends. 
The  cannibals  of  south-east  New  Guinea  shed  tears  in 
sincere  sorrow.  Far  off  Rarotonga,  and  many  a 
South  Sea  isle,  where  faithful  labourers  whom  she  had 
helped  to  train  were  labouring,  sent  back  sighs  of 
grief.  She  "  rests  from  her  labours,  and  her  works  do  . 
follow  "  from  many  places  far  apart. 

Mr.  Chalmers  was  on  his  way  to  Sydney  when  his 
wife  died.  On  the  journey  there  he  took  up  a  news- 
paper and  saw  a  heading,  "The  death  of  a  noble 
woman."  It  was  the  announcement  of  Mrs.  Chalmers' 
death,  which  had  happened  several  weeks  previously. 

To  understand  the  nature  of  his  loss  one  should 
know  the  very  touching  affection  which  existed 
between  them.  Their  union  was  of  the  happiest  and 
highest  order.  Mutually  helpful,  they  laboured  together 
with  enthusiasm,  knowing  well  that : 

"  Royal  deeds 
May  make  long  destinies  for  multitudes." 

The  sorrowing  missionary  arrived  in  Sydney  on 
the  24th  of  March,  and  after  a  stay  there  of  two 
months  returned  to  N6w  Guinea. 


— ^'^s^'Wi^p^^^ 


A  NIGHT  ON   A   ROCK. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


EXPLORING   FOR   STATIONS — COAST  VISITS. 


AFTER  the  death  of  his  wife,  Mr.  Chalmers  made 
Port  Moresby  his  headquarters.    In  July,  1879, 
he  had  a  long  tramp  inland.    In  June,  1880,  he 
.  •  was  anxious  to  commence  an  inland  mission, 

and  determined  to  devote  six  weeks  to  searching  the 
"country  behind  the  Owen  Stanley  Range  for  suitable 
localities.  He  would  also  endeavour  to  traverse  the 
high  country  on  the  sides  of  the  range,'  and  follow  the 
course  of  the  Kemp  Welch  River  into  Hood  Bay. 

He  had  a  good  party,  and  all  were  desirous  of  per- 
forming a  journey  which  was  at  that  time  unpre- 
cedented in  New  Guinea  travel.  Many  shook  their 
heads  ;  some  would-be  travellers  said  it  could  not  be 
.done.  Fortunately  they  met  a  party  of  Sogerians"  at 
Port  Moresby,  and  sent  on  by  them  a  large  portion  of 
their  food  and  supplies  for  barter,  keeping  only 
enough  for  the  western  part  of  the  trip,  which  would 


take  about  three  weeks'  hard  walking. 


n 


7^ 


TAMES   CHALMERS. 


They  started  after  a  short  service  on  the  7th  ot 
June,  and  reached  Moumiri,  sixteen  miles'  journey. 
The  next  day  it  rained  heavily.  On  the  9th  they  could 
obtain  very  few  carriers,  so  had  to  carry  their  own  things 
and    climb  the   hills  under  a  burning  sun.      On  the 


53;-^?^;_,,~  t  ^  v..  .»y" 


TREE   HOUSE  ON    HILL   TOP. 


nth,  they  met  their  old  friend  Oriope  at  Vakinumu. 
He  was  as  jolly  as  ever,  and  ready  to  take  them 
to  Sogeri. 

Travelling  in  a  mountainous  country  with  goods  to 
carry  is  too  much' for  Europeans.     How  Chalmers  and 


EXPLORING   FOR   STATIONS— COAST   VISITS.       79 

his  party  envied  travellers  in  Africa,  with  200  or  300 
bearers.  The  difficulty  of  carrying  has  prevented 
New  Guinea  being  explored.  After  leaving  Sogeri 
they  travelled  towards  Moroka,  and  came  upon  the 
sources  of  the  Kemp  Welch,  then  they' turned  easterly 
until  they  reached  Favere.  As  these  two  tribes  had 
been  at  war,  the  Sogeri  chiefs  had  to  touch  food  before 
cooking  as  a  sign  of  friendship  and  acceptance  of 
hospitality.  After  staying  a  day  at  a  large-  village 
called  Maiari,  where  they  saw  a  woman  wearing  a 
necklace  made  of  all  the  bone's  of  her  deceased  child, 
as  a  mark  of  affection,  they  continued  their  course 
through  a  terribly  rough  country,  often  wading  for 
hours  in  streams,  and  ascending  or  descending 
mountain  torrents,  until  late  one  afternoon  they 
reached  lovi.  The  ascent  to  it  was  long  and 
steep,  then  across  .the  top  of  a  huge  table  rock, 
on  which  the  houses  were  built  surrounded  by 
a  high  barricade.  After  some  uncertainty  and 
explanations,  they  were  led  along  the  rock  and  into 
the  village  with  much  shouting.  Standing  on  a  clear 
space  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  they  could  see  along 
the  Kemp  Welch  valley— one  of  the  finest  in  the 
pen-insula — down  to  Kalo,  and  also  learnt  that  no 
small  distance  yet  lay  between  them  and  Hood  •  Bay. 
Some  wished  to  make  direct  for  the  coast ;  Mr. 
Chalmers  wanted  to  go  behind  Quaipo  and  .Anivra- 
rupu,  and  raft  it  down  the  Clara  River.  They  agreed 
to  carry  out  the  original  route,  and  went  on  to 
Keremu.  They  camped  on  the  side  of  a  conical 
hill,  and  saw  a  party  of  armed  men  below,  just  as 
they  were  starting.  Surrounding  the  cone,  these 
shouted,  and  one  raised  a  spear.  As  it  was  poised, 
Mr.  Chalmers  shouted,  "  Down  spear,"  their  eyes  met, 
and    the   spear   was   dropped.      With   some    of    his 


80  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

party  he  went  down  the  hill,  and  as  he  approached- 

•  he  ordered  theni  all  to  lay  aside  their  weapons,  as  the 

guns  had  been  left  on  the  top  of  the  hill.     On  being 

told  who  the  party  were  the  assailants  became .  good 

friends,   and    smoked  and  chewed  betel-nut.      They 

wanted  to  accompany  the  party,  but  as  Mr.  Chalmers 

felt  suspicious,  he  told  them  to  return,  which  they  did. 

,   A  river  flowed  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  here  they 

.  made  a  raft  with  a  platform  in  the  centre.     Placing 


FALLS  OF  THE   LAROGI   RIVER. 


their  luggage  upon  it,  they  sailed  down,  but  soon 
struck  upon  a  snag.  They  went  on  for  a  few  miles 
more,  when  they  found  it  impossible  to  keep. the  raft 
clear  of  these  obstacles.  .  After  some  desperate  efforts 
they  got  through,  and  sailed  down  beautifully,  hoping 
to  be  in  Kalo  the  same  day.  Mr.  Chalmers  was 
standing  aft  on  a  log,  enjoying  the  scenery  and  after- 
noon's sun,  when  lo !  he  was  under  water.  On  com- 
ing to  the  surface  he  saw  the  raft  a  little  way  down, 


EXPLORING   FOR   STATIONS — COAST   VISITS.       8 1 

dismantled  and  its  occupants  still  clinging  to  it. 
Those  who  could  swim  pushed  it  ashore.  Although 
in  a  miserable  plight,  they  could  not  help  laughing 
at  the  ludicrous  mishap.  They  made  large  fires,  and 
by  midnight  were  asleep  on  the  river  bank  rolled  in 
dry  blankets.  The  next  day  they  tramped  along  a 
splendid  valley  and  met  some  Kalo  canoes  at  a 
village  on  the  left  bank.  Hiring  one,  they  sailed 
down   the   remaining   twenty    miles,  and    were   soon 


SHOOTING   A   WALLAIiY. 


enjoying  the  comfort  and  cleanliness  of  a  teacher's 
house.  This  is  the  longest  tramp  made  yet  by  a 
white  man  in  New  Guinea.  They  travelled  over '500 
miles,  and  climbed  more  than  40,000  feet. 

On  the  23rd  of  November  Mr.  Chalmers  left  for 
Maiva,  having  promised  the  chief  Oa  to  visit  him  before 
the  end  of  the  year.  On  the  way  some  Maiva  men 
told  them  that  Oa  was  ill.     He  was  really  dead,  but 

F 


82  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

they  were  afraid  to  say  so.  The  boat's  crew  were 
disheartened,  and  had  to  be  carefully  managed.  They 
slept  on  the  beach  near  Cape  Suckling,  and  in  the 
morning  met  three  Delena  canoes  with  pottery,  wait- 
ing for  the  inland  people  from  Namoa  to  come  with 
smoked  kangaroo  for  barter.  They  all  landed,  and 
after  luncheon  were  about  to  start  for  Namoa,  when 
Mr.  Chalmers  said,  "  I  fear  it  will  rain  before  we  can 
return." 

A  woman  said,  "  It  cannot  rain  until  after  we  return 
home  to  Delena." 

"Why  not." 

"  The  rain-maker  is  with  us,  and  he  alone  has 
power."  ■      • 

"  Where  is  he  ? "  and  she  pointed  to  the  chief 
Kone. 

"  Kone,  my  friend  what  about  the  rain  ?  " 
.  "  It  cannot  rain  ;  so  do  not  be  afraid." 

"  But  I  think  it  will  rain  this  afternoon." 

"  You  need  not  fear,  so  let  us  start." 

As  they  were  so  pressing,  the  party  set  out  for  the 
three  mile  walk.  Soon  Mr.  Chalmers  said,  "  Now, 
Kone,  it  will  rain." 

"  It  will  not," — and  he  cried  out,  "  Rain,  stay  on  the' 
mountains." 

"  No  use,  Kone  ;  rain  will  come." 

They  reached  Namoa.  The  rain  came,  and  they 
were  prisoners.     Kone  only  said — 

"  Do  you  think  I  thought  you  were  a  man  of  no 
power?  You  are  a  Lohiabada  (great  chief)  and  so 
am  I,  but  the  rain  has  listened  to  you." 

"  Come,  my  friend,  remember  what  I  have  been 
telling  you  of  the  great  and  good  Spirit,  and  His 
power." 

Kone    laughed,    and    soon    after    when    the    rain 


EXPLORING   FOR   STATIONS— COAST  VISITS.       83 

abated  and  th'e  stars  peeped  out  he  appeared  greatly 
relieved. 

At  Namoa,  for  the  first  time  in  New  Guinea, 
Mr.  Chalmers  met  a  real  chieftainess,  and  a  per- 
fect Amazon.  Koloka  ruled  both  her  husband 
and  people.  She  was  about  twenty-four  years  of  age, 
and  her  husband  appeared  two  years  older,  and  rather 
good-looking.  The  women  were  all  rather  masculine. 
Two  young  girls  were  being  introduced  to  society,  and 
the  customary  feasting  and  dancing  was  arranged  for 
that  evening.  The  missionary  held  an  evening  service, 
which  was  attended  by  a  great  and  orderly  audience. 
The  missionary  party  had  to  camp  out,  sleeping  in 
damp  clothes  and  without  blankets.  The  next  day 
Koloka  and  a  large  party  accompanied  them  to  the 
boats.  The  Delena  people  returned  at  the  same 
time. 

Mr.  Chalmers  arrived  at  Maiva  on  the  27th,  and' 
walked  to  Oa's  village.  Oa's  brother  Paru  led  him 
into  the  chief's  house,  which  was  very  dark.  Oa  was 
buried  in  the  centre,  and  a  mat  was  spread  over  the 
grave  on  which  Tamate  was  asked  to  sit  until  they 
had  a  weeping.  It  proved  too  much  for  Mr.  Chalmers, 
who  sent  for  the  teacher  Piri  to  take  his  place^ 

Oa  spoke  to  all  before  his  death  of  Mr.  Chalmers 
as  his  special  friend,  and  wondered  why  he  did  ngt 
come.  He  was  a  warrior  from  youth,  a  great,  sorcerer, 
and  had  wonderful  influence.  The  temple,  a  large 
building  160  feet  by  30,  was  given  up  to  Mr.  Chalmers, 
but  he  only  occupied  Oa's  place.  All  the  posts  were 
carved  and  named,  and  each  chief  had  his  own  post. 
A  large  front  post  with  a  well-carved  alligator,  done 
by  Oa  shortly  before  his  death,  with  a  tomahawk 
Mr.  Chalmers  gave  him,  was- called  Tamate. 

The  next  day  they  held  the  first  public  Christian 


84  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

service  in  that  district.  Afterwards  Rua,  one  of  the 
chiefs,  told  Tamatd  their  customs  and  beHefs  respect- 
ing the  dubu  (temple).  Rua  had  just  visited  Port 
Moresby  and  seen  the  new  church.  He  said,  "  Tamate, 
your  dubu  is  bad." 

"  No,  Rua,  it  is  small,  but  light ;  and  we  invite  men, 
women,  and  children  to  enter  and  hear  of  God's  love 
through  His  Son,  Jesus  Christ.  Your  house  is  dark^ 
and  no  women  or  children  must  ever  enter." 

''Ah!  You  see  this  place  is  too  sacred,  and  they 
must  never  enter." 

"  Not  so  sacred  as  ours  ;  we  never  smoke  or  sleep 
in  ours,  as  you  do  here.  We  worship  the  one  Great 
Spirit  by  all  meeting  together,  and  praise  Him  in  song, 
prayer,  reading  His  Word,  and  hearing  of  Him." 

To  Rua  this  was  all  new.  He  and  all  Maiva  would 
willingly  have  received  teachers  had  the  missionary 
any  to  send. 

The  next  morning  before  daylight  they  left  for 
Kevori,  a  district  inland  of  Cape  Possession.  The 
party  was  led  by  Paru,  and  when  sitting  on  a  platform 
in  the  evening  there  was  a  strong  shock  of  earthquake. 
Mr.  Chalmers  had  a  peculiar  sensation  as  of  sea-sick- 
ness, and  feared  the  platform  was  going  to  fall. 

They  all  regretted  that  the  party  could  only  stay 
until  the  morning,  and  proposed  that  they  should  sit 
by  the  dubu  fire  all  night  talking  and  singing,  but 
the  tired  missionary  strongly  objected. 

They  set  out  for  Delena.  Meauri  tried  to  detain 
them,  and  his  cry  on  parting  was,  "  Do  return  soon." 

With  a  fine  wind  Yule  was  soon  passed,  and  at 
Delena  they  met  four  large  canoes  with  Boera  natives 
who  had  purposed  going  on  to  Maiva,  but  were  told 
to  return  by  the  great  Yule  sorcerer,  because  he  did 
not  receive  an.  arm  shell  large  enough  to  satisfy  him. 


EXPLORING    FOR  STATIONS— COAST   VISITS.       85 

He  said  they  would  all  be  killed.  Mr.  Chalmers  met 
this  sorcerer,  who,  he  says,  was  "  a  small,  mean, 
wicked-looking  fellow."  The  natives  were  dreadfully 
afraid  of  him,  and  he  was  full  of  passion  when  told  by 
Tamatd  in  the  presence  of  the  people  that  his  trade 
was  one  of  murder,  robbery,  and  lying  ;  that  he  had 
better  relinquish  it  and  no  longer  deceive  the  people. 
He  got  the  best  pig,  best  food,  best  tomahawk,  and 
best  shells  his  dupes  could  supply.  These  men  are  the 
cause  of  much  of  the  murdering,  and  they  can  poison 
well.  They  also  set  one  tribe  against  another.  The 
sorcerer  left  Mr.  Chalmers,  vowing  vengeance. 
As  natives  from  Mekeo 

came  in  and  reported  the      -rt-^^^^^S^^^^^ 
country  to    be   in    an    un-    i^^^^^^p^ 
settled  state,  Mr.  Chalmers  JL 

gave   up    his    purpose    of  <<#^^^^ 

going  there  and  returned  to  ..^^Si  ^^K 

Namoa   Creek   to   pay  the         ^^fewK^'' -^-IW. 
return    visit    promised    to         ^^^^^^M^S^^^ 
Queen    Koloka.      All    the  ^^^^^^^^^ 

people  were  away  in  their  ^*«4^sk^*^^ 

plantations,       Naime,    the      baby  in  netted  cradle. 
uncle      of      Koloka,      met 

Mr.  Chalmers,  and  with  his  wife  No.  i  returned  to  the 
village  where  she  cooked  dinner  for  the  party.  A  lad 
was  despatched  to  the  chieftainess,  who  soon  appeared 
with  her  husband,  and  after  dinner  all  went  to  the 
plantations.  A  number  of  hammocks  were  slung 
between  the  trees.  The  men  and  women  were  hard 
at  work  turning  over  the  earth  with  long  poles. 
Koloka  lay  in  a  hammock,  and  gave  her  orders  to  a 
number  of  women,  who  passed  them  on  to  twelve 
more  who  were  cooking  in  the  shade  close  by.  The 
people  told  Mr.  Chalmers  Koloka  was  always  carried 


S6  ■  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

in  a  hammock  by  women  when  travelling.  Her  orders 
were  promptly  obeyed,  and  she  seemed  to  have  much 
power  over  the  people.  She  would  not  hear  of 
Tamat^'s  sleeping  in  the  dubu,  and  was  much 
interested  in  hearing  of  the  marriage  of  his  companion 
Maka  to  one  of  the  teacher  Ruatoka's  daughters.  All 
the-  presents  were  carefully  enumerated,  and  Koloka 
was  anxious  for  Maka  to  live  at  Namoa.  Her 
husband  told  Mr.  Chalmers  in  great  confidence  that  he 
had  to  pay  an  enormous  sum  for  Koloka, — viz.,  ten 
arm  shells,  three  pearl  shells,  two  strings  of  dogs'  teeth, 
several  hundreds  of  cocoa-nuts,  a  large  quantity  of 
yams,  and  two  pigs. 

The  numerous  mice  prevented  sleep,  so  at  mid- 
night Tamate  and  party  stole  away. to  the  dubu,  but 
were  observed  and  followed.  Then  Naime  and  wife 
No.  2  carne  and  lighted  a  fire  to  keep  off  enemies, 
bodily  and  spiritual.  Boe,  Koloka's  husband,  waking 
up  for  his  midnight  smoke  found  they  had  left,  and 
he  came  too ;  but  Mr.  Chalmers  ordered  them  all 
away.  They  were  much  astonished  at  his  carelessness 
in  sleeping  anywhere,  without  fire,  guards  to  watch,  or 
arms  of  any  kind ;  and  the  strange  wish  to  be  /e/t  a/one, 
will  be  long  remembered. 

One  of  the  results  of  this  visit  was  the  proposals 
made  for  peace  between  Boera  and  Namoa.  There 
was  an  enmity  of  many  years'  standing,  but  some  of 
Mr.  Chalmers'  Boeran  boatmen  were  so  well  received 
that  they  arranged  for  their  chiefs  to  go  and  conclude 
peace,  Borea  giving  arm  shells  and  pearl  shells, 
Namoa  presenting  pigs,  food,  and  betel-nuts.  So  with 
light  hearts  the  Mission  party  went  along  the  coast, 
reaching  Boera  in  safety. 


CAMP   AND    MISSIONARY   SETTLEMENT,    HANUABADA,  TORT    MORESBY. 


CHAPTER  V. 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.     ^ 

"Push  off  the  boat, 
•   Quit,  quit  the  shore, 

The  stars  will  gui<le  us  back  ; 
O  gathering  cloud, 
O  wide,  wide  sea, 

O  waves  that  keep  no  track." 

.  .  -     "The  Spanish  Gipsy." 

THE  year  1881  opened  auspiciously.     On  January 
the    5th,   the   new   church    at    Port    Moresby 
was  opened,  and  the  first  three  New  Guinea 
converts   were   baptised.     So   with   an    elated 
heart   Mr.  Chalmers  was   ready   for   fresh   deeds   of 
daring  in  Christ's  name. 

The  natives  of  Kabadi  had  begged  him  the  previous 
year  to  try  and  prevent  the  Elema  people  making 
another  raid  upon  them.  The  Kabadians  were  then 
living  away  in  the  thick  bush  near  the  hills,  and 
feared  to  return  to  their  villages. 

The  last  news  from  Maiva  had  said  that  Motumotu 
and  Lese  were  making  great  preparations  to  visit 
Motu,  kill   Mr,  Chalmers  and  the  teacher  Ruatoka, 

87 


88  JAMES   CHALMERS.  . 

and  then  attack  the  natives.  Upon  the  occasion  of 
their  last  raid,  they  said  they  would  return  and  clear 
up  all  accounts  by  killing  both  foreigners  and  natives. 

The  people  along  the  coast  were  in  great  fear  of 
these  wild  men  from  the  West,  and  it  was  a  hindrance 
to  the  work  at  the  Mission  stations.  Though  Mr. 
Chalmers  did  not  think  they  would  touch  him,  he 
feared  they  might  perpetrate  many  acts  of  savagery 
at  Kabadi  and  elsewhere.  It  was  a  bad  month 
for  travelling,  both  rain  and  storms  usually  prevail- 
ing. The  coast  line  was  also  long  and  dangerous, 
and  the  natives  said  it  was  too  late  to  attempt  such  a 
journey. 

In  view,  however,  of  the  serious  danger  and  the 
consequences  of  such  an  attack,  he  resolved  to  go  to 
Motumotu  and  "  beard  the  lion  in  his  den."  On 
the  lOth  of  January,  the  flag  flying  on  the  boat  told 
all  that  the  missionary  and  his  devoted  natives  were 
about  to  start.  The  night  before  the  leader  ran  away 
to  Kaili,  but  Huakonio,  one  of  the  baptised  three,  was 
willing  to  go.  These  men  were  looked  upon  by  all  as 
fools  rushing  into  the  arms  of  death,  and  wives, 
children,  and  friends,  stood  around  weeping.  The 
men  replied,  "  Cannot  you  see  that  if  Tamate  lives,  we 
shall  live  ;  and  if  he  is  murdered,  we  shall  be  murdered. 
It  is  all  right,  we  are  going  with  him^  and  you  will  see 
us  back  with  sago  and  betel-nuts  ! "  Was  ever  more 
trust  put  in  a  missionary  ?  Truly  the  charm  of  that 
presence  which  is  attractive  to  English  friends,  has 
even  greater  power  over  these  poor  heathens,  who 
showed  their  attachment  by  risking  their  lives. 

Huakonio  told  Mr.  Chalmers  in  the  boat  that  every 
means  but  force  had  been  used  to  prevent  their  going 
with  him,  but  added,  "We  know  it  is  all  right;  the 
Spirit  that  has  watched  over  you  in  the  past,  will  do 


SEA    SHORE   AT    NIGHT. 


89 


90  .       JAMES   CHALMERS. 

•  SO  now,  and  if  we  return  safe  won't  the  people  be 
ashamed." 

They  called  at  Boera  for  Piri.  He  had  a  boat  and 
crew,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  added  two  to  his  crew  there. 
A  strong  north-west  wind  made  them  put  into 
Manumanu.  Here  traders  and  crews  tried  to  persuade 
Mr.  Chalmers  to  give  up  going  to  Motumotu  and  to 
visit  Kabadi,  to  them  the  land  of  plenty.  They  said, 
"  Bad  weather  has  set  in,  winds  and  rains  are  here,  we 
cannot  go  on."  But  Tamate  replied  :  "  Think,  my 
children,  of  the  disgrace.  We  left  for  Motumotu,  and 
at  the  first  breath  of  wind  put  back !  It  must  not  be. 
Let  us  try  a  little  longer,  and  if  the  wind  increases 
we- can  put  back,  and  not  feel  so  ashamed." 

"You  are  right,"  they  rejoined  ;  "we  will  go  on  with 
you." 

As  they  were    about   to   start   at   sunset,   a   man 

just    returned    from    Kabadi    thought   to   turn    Mr. 

Chalmers    aside-,   and    said  :   "  Tamate,   Kabadi    look 

'  daily  for  you,  and  have  a  large  present  of  feathers  and 

sago,  your  two  boats  cannot  take  half" 

"  I  .am  going  to  Motumotu,  nor  can  all  the  feathers 
and  sago  in  Kabadi  turn  me  until  I  have  made  a  fair 
trial,  then  if  driven  back  I  will  visit  Kabadi." 

Along  the  coast  people  rejoiced  at  their  expedition  ; 
some  were  in  great  want  of  pottery.  The  Motu- 
motuans  and  also  the  tribes  to  the  west  of  them  were 
in  similar  straits  for  uros  (pots),  as  their  last  raid  had 
prevented  the  traders  making  their  usual  annual  visit 
to  the  Gulf 

When  near  Maiva  Mr.  Chalmers  met  a  Motumotu 
canoe.  Its  crew  were  at  first  afraid  to  come  near, 
but  after  a  little  talk  they  exchanged  presents,  and 
were  soon  friends.  He  learnt  that  it  was  probable 
that  the  tribe  would   make  peace  if  he  would  only 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.      9 1 

visit  them.  The  whole  party  in  the  Mission  boats 
had  friends  at  Motumotu  except  the  boatman,  Bob 
Samoa,  and  with  him  the  chief  man  in  the  canoe 
made  friends  by  rubbing  noses,  and  giving  him  his 
Hme  gourd,  which  would  be  a  passport  on  his  arrival, 
and  ensure  his  being  received  and  entertained  by  the 
father  and  relatives  of  his  new  friend.  The  canoe 
then  went  on  to  Lolo  in  quest  of  uros. 

At  many  places  they  were  begged  by  the  people  to 
land,  but  the  sea  ran  too  high.  At  Jokea  they  heard 
that  the  Motumotuans  were  in  an  uncertain  state  of 
mind,  but  having  heard  that  Mr.  Chalmers  was  on  the 
way,  they  put  off  their  decision,  saying,  "  If  he  comes 
it  will  be  all  right  and  we  shall  have  peace,  but'-': — 
well,  they  did  not  know. 

The  first  place  they  landed  at  was  Lese.  Here  an 
old  and  influential  chief  resided,  named  Semese.  An 
excited  crowd,  the  majority  armed,  came  upon  the 
beach,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  called  out  for  Eeka.  A  very 
old  man  walked  into'  the  sea  in  response,  and  led  him 
ashore  by  the  hand.  Piri,  his  wife,  the  boat's  crew, 
and  the  chiefs  from  Port  Moresby  and  Boera  followed. 
Piri  called  Mr.  Chalmers  aside  to  look  at  some  curious 
dubus  in  an  enclosure,  and  when  he  came  out  his 
hand  w^as  seized  by  an  elderly  man,  who  in  a  towering 
passion  drew  him  on.  All  Mr.  Chalmers  could  make 
out  was  that  somebody  was  a  thief  and  a  liar.  The" 
Boera  chief  ran  up,  and  he  asked  him  what  was  the 
matter.  "  Oh,  this  is  your  friend  Semese,  the  chief 
you  gave  the  present  to  when  you  were  last  here,  and 
he  is  angry  with  Eeka  for  taking  you  away." 

"  Tell  Piri  to  come  up  quickly." 

"  Piri,  go  with  Eeka  as  your  friend  ;  give  him  a 
present  as  such.     I  go  with  Semese." 

Wrath  soon  fled  before  the  genial  missionary  had 


Q2  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

sat  many  minutes  on  the  platform,  and  he  had  to  be 
fed. 

"  But,  Semese,  I  must  press  on  to  Motumotu,  and 
see  them.     I  fear  the  weather  may  be  bad." 

"  Motumotu  to-morrow,  Lese  to-day ;  you  must 
have  a  pig." 

"  Leave  the  pig  for  another  visit." 

But  it  was  of  no  avail.  A  fine  pig  was  speared  and 
laid  at  Tamat^'s  feet.  Semese  and  his  people  were 
in  the  best  humour,  and  Eeka  was  delighted  with  Piri. 

They  gave  their  return  presents,  and  suggested  that 
the  pig  should  be  taken  to  the  other  side  of  the 
entrance  to  Macey  Lagoon,  which  was  agreed  to,  and 
the  rest  of  the  day  passed  in  feasting  and  sleeping ; 
but  the  night  was  utilised  for  work,  and  they  anchored 
about  two  miles  from  Motumotu.  Soon  all  were 
asleep,  in  spite  of  anxiety.  They  were  astonished  at 
the  beautiful  weather  in  spite  of  the  season,  and  said 
they  "  felt  it  would  be  all  right — the  great  and  good 
Spirit  who  had  led  them  so  far  in  safety,  would  not 
leave  them  on  the  morrow." 

At  each  meal  they  asked  a  blessing,  and  an  old 
Hula  friend  prayed  with  great  feeling  for  the 
Motumotuans,  and  that  the  visit  might  be  blessed  to 
them.  Mr.  Chalmers  was  charmed  with  his  simplicity, 
fervour,  and  expectancy. 

They  were  aroused  about  two  A.M.  by  shouting,  and 
saw  a  large  double  fighting  canoe  beside  Piri's  boat. 
Those  on  the  canoe  bridge  asked  : 

"  Who  are  you  ?  " 

"  Tamate  and  Piri  going  to  Motumotu." 

Soon  all  were  friends,  chewing  betel-nut  and 
smoking. 

There  were  over  thirty  paddles  in  each  canoe,  and 
on  the  bridge  between  them  was  a  large  number  of 


ERRANDS   OF    PEACE,  iMERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.       93 

armed   men   with  a  supply  of  sago   and    betel-nuts. 
They  were  going  to  Lese  to  purchase  uros. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  the  presence  of  Mr. 
Chalmers  on  the  coast,  if  it  did  not  restore  peace,  had 
the  effect  of  an  armistice,  which  even  the  aggressors 
used  to  their  advantage. 

After  presents  were  exchanged,  at  an  order  from 
one  on  the  bridge,  the  canoe  moved  swiftly  on.  It 
was  a  pretty  sight  in  the  moonlight,  when  nearly 
eighty  paddles  as  one  touched  the  water. 

They  reached  Motumotu  early,  and  a  chief  rushed 
into  the  water,  saying,  "  Come,  with  peace  from  afar  ; 
come,  friends,  and  you  w^ill  meet  us  as  friends," 

Mr.  Chalmers  had,  as  a  matter  of  diplomacy,  brought 
Semese  with  him,  as  he  was  a  relation  of  Rahe,  a  great 
man  among  the  Motumotuans.  He,  now  held  a  con- 
ference with  Semese  and  Rahe  in  the  boat,  and  would 
let  no  one  else  come  near  until  it  was  over.  They 
told  him,  among  other  things,  that  they  had  heard  he 
was  murdered,  and  were  very  sorry  ;  but  now  Tamate 
was  alive,  and  had  come  to  see  them,  in  a  moon  in 
which  neither  they  nor  their  fathers  had  ever  trav- 
elled, they  must  make  peace.  They  promised  never 
to  go  near  Kabadi. 

Then  the  party  landed,  and  Bob's  calabash  brought 
him  numerous  friends.  Piri  went  to  his  friends  at  one 
end  of  the  village,  while  Mr.  Chalmers  resided  in 
Rahe's  dubu.  Another  meeting  was  held  with  the 
leading  men,  and  peace  was  effected. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  full-dress  parade  of  the 
men  and  women  in  the  village ;  everybody  was 
besmeared  with  red  pigment,  and  decked  out  with 
leaves  and  feathers.     All  were  armed. 

Rahe  came  for  some  boat  medicine,  and  was  asked, 
"  What  do  you  mean,  Rahe  ?  " 


94  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

"  I  want  you  to  give  me  some  of  that  medicine  you 
use  to  make  your  boat  sail." 

"  I  use  no  medicine,  only  Motu  strong  arms." 

"You  could  never  have  come  along  now  without 
medicine." 
•    "  We  use  no  medicine,  and  have  come  along  well." 

The  weariness  and  anxiety  of  such  a  journey  would 
be  great,  and  when  the  tension  was  removed  from 
the  mind  by  peace  being  concluded,  it  is  natural 
Mr.  Chalmers  should  record  that  "  he  had  a  splendid 
night's  rest." 

They  had  service  the  next  morning,  but  it  was  a 
roaring  time.  Everybody  anxious  for  quiet  must 
needs  pacify  his  neighbour,  and  of  course  it  was 
resented.  The  Port  Moresby  chief  prayed  in  the 
Motu  dialect,  and  the  Boera  chief  translated  the 
addresses  of  Mr.  Chalmers  and  Piri.  They  were 
very  anxious  to  know  about  the  resurrection,  and 
where  British  spirits  went  to  after  death. 

An  afternoon  service  was  held  in  the  main  street. 
Prayer  dispersed  them  like  a  bombshell  exploding  in 
their  midst,  but  another  hymn  brought  them  back. 
Tamate  talked  long  on  peace,  and  urged  them  to  go 
to  Moveave  and  make  peace  there,  promising  at  a  fit 
season  to  ascend  the  river  with  them  for  that  purpose. 

Mr.  Chalmers  visited  the  party  who  killed  several 
of  the  Moveaveans  in  the  previous  week,  and  they 
promised  not  to  attack  them  again. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  great  gathering  of  chiefs 
and  men,  whom  Semese  addressed,  exhorting  all  to 
peace,  and  saying  that  now  Mr.  Chalmers  had  visited 
them,  they  ought  no  more  to  go  about  exalting  them- 
selves, fighting  with  their  neighbours,  and  speaking 
evil  of  their  friends  the  Motuans.  Nearly  all  night 
the  aged  chief  pursued  his  theme,  and  from  the  esteem 


•     ERRANDS   OF    PEACE,  MERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.       95. 

in  which  he  was  held  as  a-  warrior  and  orator,  his 
words  would  help  greatly  to  cement  the  peace  then 
concluded. 

They  arrived  at  Port  Moresby  on  the  20'th  of 
February,  and  on  the  6th  of  March  Mr.  Chalmers 
baptised  the  first  two  women  of  New  Guinea  converted 


A    MOTU    WOxMAN,    TORT    MORESBY, 


to  Christianity.  All  will  heartily  join  in  his  prayer, 
''May  Kohu  and  Rahela  be  kept  as  true  ministering 
women  for  Christ." 


The  Kalo  Massacre.    ' 

On  the   nth  of  March,  1881,  as  Mr.  Chalmers  was 
about  to  leave  Port  IMoresby,  in  the  Mayri^  for  Hula, 


g6  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

#   -  • 

the  sad  news  arrived  that  the  natives  of  Kalo,  in 
Hood  Bay,  had  murdered  their  teacher,  Anederea, 
with  his  wife  and  two  children  ;  also  Materua,  teacher 
of  Kerepunu,  his  wife,  and  two  children ;  Taria, 
teacher  of  Hula ;  Matatuhi,-  an  inland  teacher  ;  and 
two  Hula  boys — in  all,  twelve  persons. 

This  sad  piece  of  savagery  occurred  on  Monday, 
March  the  7th,  just  as  all  the  teachers  were  about  to. 
leave  in  the  Mission  boat  for  Hula. 

Taria,  on  reaching  Hula  on  the  4th,  heard  a  rumour 
that  the  Kalo  people  intended  to  kill  Anederea  and 
his  family,  and  on  the  following  morning  he,  with 
Matatuhi,  went  over  to  Kalo  and  asked  the  teacher 
to  leave  at  once.  Anederea  refused,  and  questioned 
the  chief  Ouaibo,  who  pretended  to  be  his  friend.  He 
was  assured  there  was  no  truth  in  the  rumour,  so 
Taria  returned  to  Hula  alone. 

On  Monday  the  7th,  Taria  proceeded  in  his  boat, 
manned  by  five  Hula  lads,  to  Kalo  and  Kerepunu. 
His  object  was  to  remove  the  teachers,  as  some 
members  of  their  families  had  been  ill.  He  put  in  to 
Kalo,  and  told  the  teacher  of  his  intention  to  call  for 
him  on  his  way  back.  At  Kerepunu  he  took  on 
board  Materua  and  family,  also  one  native  youth. 
While  waiting  at  Kalo,  the  pretended  friend,  Quaibo, 
entered  the  boat  for  a  talk,  and  on  the  arrival  of 
Matatuhi  and  Anederea  with  his  family,  the  , chief 
stepped  out  of  the  boat. 

This  was  the  prearranged  signal  for  attack,  and 
immediately  the  crowds  on  the  beach  poured  a  shower 
of  spears  upon  the  hapless  and  unarmed  Mission 
party,  who  were  so  cooped  up  in  the  boat  that  they 
could  neither  resist  nor  escape.  Taria  made  some 
efforts,  but  a  fourth  spear  put  an  end  to  his  resistance. 
The  others  were  soon  despatched.      A  single  spear 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.       97 

slew  both  mother  and  babe  in  the  case  of  each  of  the 
teachers'  wives.  The  chief  had  told  his  followers  not 
to  touch  the  Hula  and  Kerepunu  boys,  but  two  of 
the  former  were  killed.  The  rest  escaped  by  swim- 
ming across  the  river.  The  only  bodies  recovered 
were  those  of  the  Kerepunu  teacher's  wife  and  babe, 
which  were  interred  by  the  natives  of  Hula  and 
Kerepunu.  The  rest  became  a  prey  to  the  alligators. 
Speedy  compensation  was  made  by  the  Kalo  people 
to  the  relatives  of  the  two  Hula  boys,  and  their  people 
also  recovered  the  whale-boat. 

The  Hood  Bay  natives  attributed  the  massacre  to 
the  influence  of  the  Aroma  chief  Koapena,  saying 
that  he  told  the  Kalo  people  that  foreigners  might  be 
killed  with  impunity,  and  as  an  illustration  referred 
to  the  massacre  of  Chinamen  at  Aroma  in  July,  1880. 
But  from  Mr.  Chalmers'  statements  respecting  the 
character  of  the  chiefs  Quaibo  and  Koapena,  and  the 
widely  different  circumstances  of  the  two  events,  this 
story  is  improbable.  The  action  of  the  British 
commodore  who  investigated  both  affairs  was  the 
condemnation  of  Quaibo,  and  the  immediate  acquital 
of  Koapena,  in  reference  to  each  event.  Anederea 
had  given  no  offence  to  Quaibo  as  the  Chinamen  did 
to  Kpapena  and  his  people.  The  utmost  that 
could  be  said  against  him  was  that  he  and  his 
Mission  boys  laboured  hard  with  their  own  hands  to 
save  the  Society '  all  possible  expense  in  getting 
thatch  for  the  houses  and  chapels  along  the  coast, 
which  was  only  procurable  at  Kalo,  when  they  might 
have  gained  more  influence  over  the  people  by  paying 
them  for  doing  the  work. 

Mr.  Chalmers'  visit  to  Hula  was  postponed,  and 
with  a  large  party  he  left  at  once  for  Aroma,  their 
chief  concern  being  for  the  safety  of  the  two  teachers 

G 


98 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


there.  They  arrived  after  three  days'  sailing,  and 
leaving  the  boats,  Mr.  Chalmers,  accompanied  by 
only  one  teacher,  went  ashore  so  as  not  to  arouse  the 
suspicion  of  the  natives.  They  were  thankful  to 
learn  that  neither  teachers  nor  people  had  heard  of  the 
massacre,  and  in  less  .than  an  hour,  thanks  to  the  tact 
of  Tamate,  the  two  teachers  and  their  families  were 
safe   in   their   whale-boat.     Only  a  small  portion  of 


-«5/f- 


WEAPONS   OF   WAR. 


their  effects  were  removed,  and  the  chiefs  and  natives 
of  Aroma  were  left  in  ignorance  of  the  cause  of  such 
erratic  movements. 

Mr.  Chalmers  again  turned  his  attention  to  the 
extension  of  the  Mission  to  the  westward  of  Port 
Moresby,  and  on  the  24th  of  May  left  for  Maiva.  At 
Hall  Sound  he  was  informed  by  his  old  friends,  Kone 
and  Lavao,  that  it  was  useless  to  go  on  to  Maiva,  as 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.       99 

it  was  impossible  to  land  there.  So  he  landed  at 
Delena  to  eat  pigs — i.e.,  to  receive  them  as  presents, 
and  hand  them  over  to  his  followers.  He  ascended 
a  hill  at  the  rear  of  the  village,  and  was  astonished  to 
find  a  fine  tract  of  land,  affording  a  good  position  for  a 
Mission  house.  Kone  offered  what  land  was  needful, 
and  after  due  consideration  Mr.  Chalmers  decided  to 
build.  Tents  were  landed  from  the  Mayri^  and 
pitched  on  the  rise  above  the  village. 

On  Saturday  he  told  the  people  that  there  would 
be  no  work  for  them  on  Sunday,  and  Kone  said, 
"  Oh,  we  know,  and  we  too  are  going  to  be  helaka 
(sacred)  to-morrow."  He  had  received  this  informa- 
tion from  natives  of  Boera. 

On  Sunday  they  held  a  service  in  the  village,  but 
the  wary  missionary  was  not  deceived  by  the  pro- 
pitious appearance  of  things.  He  says,  "  What 
nonsense  one  could  write  of  the  reception  here  ;  such 
as,  '  Everybody  at  service  listened  attentively,  com- 
ments were  made  on  address,  children  all  come  to 
school,  are  intelligent  and  anxious  to  learn  ;  alto- 
gether prospects  are  bright'  At  home  they  would 
say,  'These  people  are  being  converted  ;  see  the  speedy 
triumph  of  kindness.'  Alas !  they  are  but  savages, 
pure  and  simple,  rejoicing  in  the  prospect  of  an 
unlimited  supply  of  tobacco,  beads,  and  tomahawks." 

These  words,  written  that  day,  are  prophetic, 
viewed  in  the  light  of  the  Delena  fray,  which  took 
place  that  week,  when  the  good  and  peaceful  resolu- 
tions of  the  people  took  flight  under  the  excitement 
of  an  attack  by  the  Loloans. 

Before  the  first  signs  of  trouble  appeared,  Mr. 
Chalmers  was  visited  by  Queen  Koloka  of  Namoa 
and  her  husband  Boe. 

Mr.    Chalmers   writes  :  "  After   formally   receiving 


100 


JAMES  CHALMERS. 


her  I  presented  Mrs.  Lawes'  gift.  Unloosing  the 
parcel,  I  turned  maid  of  honour  in  real  waiting.  Her 
Majesty  was  chewing  betel -nut,  but  that  did  not 
prevent  my  putting  the  dress  on.  The  first  attempt 
was  all  wrong,  the  front  became  the  back.  At  length 
I  succeeded,  and  after  fastening  the  dress,  tied  a 
pretty  kerchief  round    the   royal    neck.     There  .  was 


Pi) 


pmm 


QUEEN  KOLOKA  IN  FULL  DRESS. 

great  excitement,  in  every  mouth  a  thumb,  a  few 
moments  of  silence,  and  then  every  one  shouted. 
It  was  amusing  to  see  her  husband,  uncles,  maids,  old, 
men  and  women,  young  men  and  maidens,  gather 
round  the  royal  presence,  wonder  and  admire,  and 
then  shout,  '  Oh,  Misi  Haine,  O  !  (Mrs.  Lawes).'  Ah, 
Koloka,  I  wonder  how  you  are  going  to  get  out  of 


ERRANDS  OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.       lOI 

that   dress   to-night ;   will   you   understand   buttons, 
hooks,  and  eyes  ? " 

Three  days  after  this  incident  Mr.  Chalmers 
observed  that  the  natives  seemed  troubled,  and  their 
earnestness  in  house-building  abated.  He  found  they 
expected  that  the  Lolo  tribe  purposed  making  a  raid 
upon  them,  but  their  hope  was  in  the  guns  of  the 
Mission  party.  He  said  they  were  men  of  peace,  and 
had  no  wish  to  frighten  any  one. 

That  night  there  was  much  excitement,  and  the 
Mission   people   slept   lightly.      At   five   o'clock  the 
Mission  camp  was  crowded  with  women  and  children, 
with  their  goods,  asking  for  protection.    Men  now  ran 
about  planting  arms  in  convenient  places  in  the  bush. 
Fighting  began  at  daylight,  and  some  Loloans  pursued 
the  Delena  natives  up  the  hill,  but  they  were  warned 
back.     There  was  a  loud  shout  for  Mr.  Chalmers  and 
party  to  go  and  fight  in  the  village.     He  went  alone 
and  unarmed.     Rushing  into  the  midst  of  the  com- 
batants he  called  out  Maino  !  (Peace  !),  and  there  was 
a  hush  in  the  terrible  storm.     He  was  allowed  to  walk 
through  the  village,  and  after  disarming  one  or  two, 
returned.     Kone  whispered  to  him  :  "  There  is  Arua," 
and  he  recognised  in  him  the  great  sorcerer,  who,  on 
a  former  visit,  left  him  in  a  great  rage,  vowing  ven- 
geance.    Now  was  his  time  to  pay  out  the  missionary. 
But  that  coolness  and  tact  which  has  served  him  in  so 
many   dangers  .prompted    bold    measures,  so   taking 
Arua's  weapons   from   him,  he  linked   his    arm    and 
walked  him  up  the  hill.     Speaking  kindly  he  showed 
him   the    Mission   flag ;    told    him    they  were   maino 
(peace),  and  said  that  no  Loloans  were  to  ascend  the 
hill.    All  right,  Arua  would  stop  the  fighting.    Tamat^ 
returned  to  his  tent  and  sat  down  to  write  an  account 
of  the  skirmish,  when  again  they  rushed  up  for  him, 


102  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

saying  Kone  was  to  be  killed.     Rushing  down  to  the 
village  without  his  hat,  he  found  that  more  canoes 
had  arrived  full  of  warriors.    What  a  crowd  of  painted 
fiends.     He  was  surrounded,  spears  and  sword  sticks 
rattled,  and  some  one  knocked  him  on  the  head,  a  piece 
of  stick  struck  his  hand.     The  old  chief  from  Lavao 
took  hold  of  him,  and  walked  to  the  outskirt  of  the 
village.     Arua  and  Lauma  of  Lolo  assured  him  they 
would  not  ascend  the  hill,  and  he  had  better  not  interfere 
with  them.     Tamate  replied,  "  Right,  friends  ;  but  you 
must  stop,  and  on  no  account  injure  my  friend,  Kone." 
At  last  they  promised  to  make  peace,  and  he  called  a 
meeting  of  all  in  the  village.     The  Loloans  having 
promised   to   be  quiet,  they  were  informed  that  the 
missionaries  could   not  stay  if  they  were  constantly 
threatening.     In  the  afternoon  the  chiefs  came  up  to 
the  camp,  and   Mr.   Chalmers   promised   to  visit  all. 
He  then  wrote,  "  My  head  aches  a  little.     Had  I  been 
killed,  I  alone  should  have  been  to  blame,  and  not 
the  natives.     The  Delena  people  say,  '  Well,  Tamate, 
had  you  not  been  here,  many  of  us  would  have  been 
killed,  and  the  remainder  gone   to    Naara,  never  to 
return.'"     He  then   modestly  adds,  "There  is  some 
pleasure  in  being  of  a  little  use,  even  to  savages." 

There  was  a  good  attendance  at  service  and  school 
on  the  following  Sunday.  Some  would  beat  native 
cloth,  which  made  Kone  angry  ^  and  because  they 
would  not  listen  to  him  he  threatened  to  pull  up  his 
recently  buried  child.  Mr.  Chalmers  sent  word  that 
he  must  on  no  account  do  that,  and  also  must  say  no 
more  to  the  men  beating  cloth,  as  by-and-by  they 
would  become  enlightened,  and  understand  about  the 
Sabbath.  Poor  Kone's  idea  was  that  they  should 
at  once  understand  and  obey. 

On  the  6th  of  June  Mr.  Chalmers  left  Delena  to 


ERRANDS  OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.      IO3 

establish  a  station  at  Maiva.  Landing  at  Miria's 
village  he  asked  his  friend  Rua  if  the  people  were  going 
to  fight,  as  they  carried  kaj^evas  (long  fighting  sticks). 
Upon  his  saying,  "  No,  no,  it  is  all  right,"  Tamate  gave 
him  a  large  axe  for  the  chief  Meauri  to  cut  wood  for 
a  house.  Soon  Meauri  and  some  followers  appeared, 
much  to  Mr.  Chalmers'  surprise.  He  accompanied 
Meauri  inland  to  his  village  and  selected  a  site,  giving 


A   CHIEF   AT    PORT    MORESBY. 


red  cloth  and  tobacco  in  payment  for  that  and  the 
wood  they  were  to  cut  for  another  house. 

When  they  were  sitting  together  Rua  asked, 
"  Tamate,  who  is  your  real  Maiva  friend  ?"  Fancying 
there  was  trouble,  he  replied  : 

"  Oa  Maoni,  who  sleeps  in  that  house  in  death,  was 
my  friend  ;  Meauri,  Rua,  Pari,  and  Aua  are  now  my 
friends." 


104 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


Rua  said,  "  I  thought  so  ;  and  Miria  has  no  business 
to  build  a  house  for  you.  Before  we  saw  the  Mission 
boat  we  were  down  on  the  beach  at  Miria's  village 
to  begin  a  quarrel ;  we  saw  you  coming,  and  waited, 
for  you." 

The  fact  of  the  villagers  being  armed,  and  the 
speedy  appearance  of  Meauri  and  his  warriors  was  now 
explained.  Mr.  Chalmers  said,  "  But  I  want  a  house 
on  the  coast  as  well  as  inland  ;  Miria's  village  is  srnall, 
and  too  exposed,  I  must  look  for  another  place." 
"  That  is  all  right,  but  build  here  first." 

On  the  14th  of  June  Mr.  Chalmers 
had    a    conference   with    Bontu,   the 
Paltana  chief,  and  followers,  respect- 
ing  the   murder   of  Dr.   James   and 
Mr.    Thorngren.      They    gave    their 
version,     and     then     made     friends,- 
Tamate  taking   care   to  explain  the 
peaceful  nature  of  his   mission.     He 
then   visited    the    village    where    the 
murderers  lived,  and  they  again  ex- 
plained .  that     only    a     small    party 
attacked  the  boat,  and  that  the  chiefs 
knew  nothing  of  the  matter. 
Mr.  Chalmers  again  said,  "  I  am  not  a  trader,  but 
have  come  to  teach  about  the  only  true  God  and  His 
love  to  us  all  in  the  gift  of  His  Son,  Jesus  Christ,  and 
to  proclaim  peace  between  man  and  man  and  tribe 
•  and  tribe." 

They  were  astonished  at  his  being  alone  and 
unarmed,  and  soon  his  old  friend  the  chief  hurried 
him  away' to  the  boat. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1 881,  on  the. news  of 
the  fight  at  Manumanu,  between  the  Dourans  and 
Kabadians  against  the  Koitabuans  and  Manumanuans, 


MOTU    DRILL. 


ERRANDS  OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.      IO5 

reaching  Port  Moresby,  Mr.  Chalmers  delayed  his 
visit,  hoping  that  matters  might  be  put  right  between 
Manumanu  and  Kabadi,  as  he  would  not  attempt  to 
locate  the  teachers  until  they  could  hope  for  a  per- 
manent peace. 

For  some  time  Mr.  Chalmers  had  no  communica- 
tion with  Kabadi,  but  rumours  came  of  great  prepara- 
tions for  revenge.     He  was  not  the  man  to  remain 
long  inactive,  and  having. set  his  heart  upon  placing 
teachers  there,   he    resolved    to    go    and   see   what 
prospect  there  was  for  peace.    When  it  was  suggested, 
there  was  much  head  shaking  among  the  Motuans, 
and   a  boat's  crew  could  not  be  found.     When  the 
matter  was  decided,  and  orders  given  to  launch  the 
boat,  an  old  and  valued  friend,  Heni,  one  of  the  Motu 
chiefs,  consented   to   go  with   him,  and   after   some 
trouble  five  rowers  were  found.     On  the  6th  February, 
1882,  just   as    the   sun    was    setting,  they   left,   Mr. 
Chalmers  happy  in  having  secured  a  crew,  but  they 
unhappy  in  leaving  wives  and  children,  who  tried  to 
keep  them  from  going  to  what  seemed  sure  death. 
He  called  for  Heni,  and  took  him  from  his  verandah, 
where  he  was  surrounded  by  weeping  friends.     Heni 
entered  the  boat,  saying,  "  Do  not  weep  for  me,  if  he 
lives  I  live,  if  he  is  killed  I  too  shall  be  killed  ;   but  it 
will  be  peace  and  sure  friendship."     The  confidence 
and    affection   which   these    savage   friends   have   in 
Tamate  is   truly  wonderful.     In    his   company  they 
have  been  willing  to  face  all  dangers.    It  was  arranged 
to  call  at  Boera  for  Piri  and   a  chief,  Daro,  both  great 
friends  of  the  Kabadians.    Mr.  Chalmers  is  an  adept  in 
diplomacy  of  this  kind.    The  crew  wanted  to  stay  over 
night,  but  he  said,  "  No,  I  wish  to  be  at  Manumanu 
by  daylight,  ascend  the  creek,  meet  the   Kabadians,  • 
and  return  by  night."     They  replied,"  "  He  thinks  it's 


I06  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

nothing ;  just  hear  what  he  says ! "  When  Mr. 
Chalmers  had  landed  for  Piri  and  the  chief,  the 
crew  beached  the  boat,  hoping  to  persuade  him  to 
return  to  Port  Moresby,  or  at  least  to  remain.  He 
had  to  sleep  there,  but  did  so  dragoon  fashion,  and 
oy  four  o'clock  they  were  again  in  the  boat,  but  had 
to  put  back  in  consequence  of  a  high  wind  and  heavy- 
sea.  They  started  again  in  the  evening,  and  anchored 
about  two  miles  from  Manumanu  to  await  daylight. 
The  crew  told  horrible  tales  respecting  the  treachery 
and  cruelty  of  the  Kabadis  in  times  gone  by,  and  said : 
"  Tamat6,  do  you  hear  and  believe  that?" 
"  No,  I  don't  care  ;  out  oars  and  pull  away." 
More  stories  followed,  a  fish  sprang  across  the  boat 
from  sea-side  to  the  coast,  causing  some  to  sigh  deeply. 
Soon  another  fish  sprang  into  the  boat,  then  several 
followed.  Mr.  Chalmers  pretended  to  pay  no  atten- 
tion ;  there  was  a  peculiar  silence,  then  old  Heni 
spoke : 

"  What  do  these  fish  portend.  I  fear  the  Kabadi 
have  to-night  surrounded  Manumanu  and  killed 
many." 

"  Father,"  said  another,  "  no  ;  'tis  our  boat ;  it  is  not 
Manumanu,  but  we.  Who  of  us  will  return  ?." 
With  a  long  sigh,  they  together  replied,  "  Who  ?  " 
The  natives  at  Manumanu  did  all  they  could  to 
prevent  them  going  to  certain  death.  Again  followed 
a  discussion.  An  old  woman  waded  out  to  the  boat 
and  whispered  "  Go,  Tamate,  the  Kabadi  will  treat 
you  kindly." 

He  laughed  and  said,  "  Come,  push  off,  or  go  ashore, 
just  as  you  like." 

"No,  we  will  not  forsake  you,  but  die  or  livewith 
you." 

However,  they  borrowed  weapons,   and  the   boat 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.      10/ 

looked  quite  an  arsenal,  what  with  testing  of  bows, 
refitting  strings,  and  sharpening  arrows.  Heni 
laughed  at  their  folly,  and  they  said,  "  You  are  a 
great  chief,  and  perhaps  do  not  know  what  fear  is." 

They  had  a  very  hearty  reception.  The  Kabadis 
were  in  sore  need  of  uros  (pots)  for  cooking,  and  had 
a  great  quantity  of  food  on  their  hands. 

Mr.  Chalmers'  party    were   refreshed   with   young 

cocoa-nuts,  and  after  a  smoke  and  a  talk  he  rose  to 

■go,  but  found  only  Piri  followed.     He  went  back,  and 

one  of  the    Kabadi    chiefs    said,   "  I    shall    be  angry 

if  you  leave ;  stay  and  feast,  and  go  to  the  boat." 

"  A  friend's  anger  soon  passes  away.  Long  ago  we 
made  peace  ;  why  should  I  stay  here  when  I  do  not 
know  how  my  inland  friends  are  ?  You  know  they 
would  be  angry  if  I  went  without  seeing  them."  So 
saying,  Mr.  Chalmers,  taking  the  arm  of  the  younger 
chief,  walked  off,  and  all  the  rest  soon  followed. 

The  inland  people  were  the  real  fighters,  and  had 
been  the  cause  of  all  the  trouble. 

The  chief  Naimearua  of  Keveo  was  away  in  his 
plantation,  and  a  messenger  was  despatched.  Mean- 
while, his  son,  who  was  one  of  the  fighters,  gave 
Mr.  Chalmers  an  account  of  the  matter.  When  he 
had  finished,  his  father  came  along  and  embraced 
the  missionary,  and  also  gave  a  hearty  greeting  to  his 
•party. 

Naimearua  assured  Tamate  of  his  unbroken  friend- 
ship, and  said,  although  Manumanu  had  killed  his 
youths,  he  did  not  intend  to  fight.  He  begged  the 
Motuans  and  Boerans  to  return  and  resume  their 
accustomed  trading.  The  war  rumours  he  strongly 
denied,  and  said  they  had  waited  in  fear  to  know 
what  Urobada  (the  Motu  tribe)  would  do ;  now 
Tamate  had  come  as  a  friend,  it  was  enough. 


I08  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

They  had  great  feasting  on  returning  to  Kankana, 
and  large  presents  of  food  were  carried  to  the  boat. 
The  people  begged  them,  to  stay,  but  after  a  long  talk 
and  a  last  stnoke  they  launched  out  and  pulled  away. 
The  Motuans  were  now  bold  as  lions,  and  laughed 
at  the  fears  of  their  friends  at  home.  At  Manumanu, 
Daera  was  delighted  to  hear  that  the  Kabadis  spoke 
of  him  as  their  only  friend.  They  were  warned  by 
old  Heni  to  be  careful,  and  never  again  "  cut  asunder  " 
the  peace.  "  But  for  the  rhissionaries,"  he  said, 
'*we  should  have  taken  everything  from  you  long 
ago,  and  burned  every  house  in  your  village." 

These  Manumanuans  were  very  badly  off  for  food, 
and  Kabadi  being  closed  to  them  they  had  no  market, 
and  lived  chiefly  on  the  seed  of  a  species  of  man- 
grove. 

They  repented,  and  felt  that  -the  tattoo  marks 
gained  were  not  sufflcient  to  make  up  for  what  they 
had  lost. 

.  By  sailing  all  night  the  missionary  party  were  able 
to  reach  Port  Moresby  about  eleven  A.M.,  to  the  great 
joy  of  all  anxious  friends.    . 

In  sight  of  home,  Heni  addressed  Mr.  Chalmers 
thus  :  "As  the  sun  shines,  so  do  you.  Such  a  thing 
as  you  have  now  done  has  never  before  been  done  on 
this  coast,  and  it  is  only  by  the  Gospel  of  Peace  that 
it  could  be  done." 

And  all  the  crew  joined  in  chorus,  "  True,  true,  very 
true." 

This  method  of  taking  the  bull  by  the  horns,  intro- 
duced- by  Mr.  Chalmers,  is  quite  at  variance  with  all 
native  ideas  and  methods  of  procedure,  but  they 
accept  and  act  upon  the  peace  it  brings  in  all  good 
faith. 

On  the  7th  of  August,  1882,  Mr.  Chalmers  left  to  go 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND  JUSTICE.      IO9 


through  Doura,  but  was  disappointed  ;  not  a  village 
or  a  native  could  be  found  anywhere,  since  the  defeat 
of  Adu  other  raids  had  completely  exterminated  the 
tribe.  When  returning  he  heard  that  Kabadi  was 
determined  to  have  revenge  on  Manumanu  ;  but  he 
afterwards  learnt  that  only  one  chief  desired  it,  wish- 
ing to  avenge  his  brother's  death.  The  other  chiefs 
had  offered  him  valuable  presents,  but  he  declined 
them  all,  only  wishing  "  that  the  man  who  had  the 
bloody  hand  should  be  killed." 

After  four  months'  work  around  Port  Moresby 
Mr.  Chalmers'  attention  was 
again  turned  to  the  wild  people 
to  the  west,  and  on  the  24th 
of  October,  1881,  he  left  in  the 
Mission  vessel  Mayri  for  the  Gulf 
of  New  Guinea.  At  Boera  he 
took  on  board  fifty  earthenware 
pots  to  use  in  barter  for  sago. 
He  purposed  calling  next  at 
Delena  to  get  his  boat  for  river 
work,  and  to  take  his  friend. Kone, 
who  was  well  known  and  liked 
all  along  the  coast,  and  would  be 
useful  in  many  ways. 

Upon  "nearing  Delena  early  the  next  morning,  his 
party  saw  a  boat  approaching  with  the  chief  Lavao 
standing  in  the  stern,  and  several  men  in  it  with 
native  cloth  on  their  heads  for  mourning.  AH  looked 
sorrowful,  and  Lavao  stepped  on  board  the  Mayri. 
Mr.  Chalmers  anxiously  asked,  "  Where  is  Kone  ? " 

After  a  time  of  silence  he  said,  "  Oh,  Tamat^,  Kone 
your  friend,  is  dead  ! " 

"Dead,  Lavao!"  Mr.  Chalmers'  feelings  so  over- 
came him  that  he  had  to  sit  down. 


SHIELD. 


no  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

» 

"  Yes,  Kone  is  dead,  and  we  buried  him  on  your 
ground,  near  your  house ;  the  house  of  his  one  great 
friend." 

"  Did  Kone  die  of  sickness  ?  " 

"  No ;  he  was  speared  by  your  friend  Laoma. 
After  you  left  there  was  a  feast  at  Delena.  *  Kone  and 
others  were  there,  also  some  Naara  natives.  At  night 
Laoma  came  with  his  spears  to  kill  a  Naara  man,  and 
when  about  to  throw  a  spear,  Kone  caught  the  Naara 
man  and  placed  him  behind  himself,  the  spear  enter- 


MOUNT  YULE,   SEEN    FROM    DELENA. 

ing  his  own  breast.  We  carried  him  home,  and  on 
the  second  moon  he  died." 

Here  is  the  Christian  missionary's  lament  for  his 
friend,  written  on  the  Mayri  just  after  receiving  the 
sad  news  : 

"  My  poor  Kone  !  The  kindliest  savage  I  have  ever 
met ;  how  I  shall  miss  you  here !  I  had  hoped  that 
you  would  yet  become  a  great  help  in  introducing  the 
Gospel  into  the  Gulf,  and  now  had  called  to  take  you 
with  me.     How  anxious  you  were  to  be  taught  and  to 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.       Ill 


know  how  to  pray  !  I  taught  you  to  say,  '  God  of 
love,  give  me  light ;  lead  me  to  Christ'  Who  will 
deny  that  my  wind  and  rain-making  friend  has  passed 
from  this  darkness  into  the  light  that  he  prayed  for  ?  " 

After  breakfast  Mr.  Chalmers  landed,  and  found 
the  Mission  House  and,  premises  just  as  he  had  left 
them.  The  things  left  in  charge  of  Kone  and  other 
natives  had  been  well  cared  for,  and  the  boat  was  in 
excellent  order. 

The  natives  had  built  a  large  house  upon  the  spot 
where  Mr.  Chalmers  had  pitched  his  tent  during  his 
first  visit,  and  in  this  house 
Kone  was  buried.  Tamate  enter- 
ed, and  found  Kaia,  the  widow, 
enveloped  in  cloth.  She  wailed, 
and  cut  her  head  with  a 
shell,  the  blood  flowing  freely, 
and  would  have  done  herself 
harm  if  he  had  not  interfered. 
He  writes  :  "  I  felt  sorry  ;  but 
what  could  I  say  to  comfort  her  ? 
I  did  not  think  it  out  of  place 
to  pray,  sitting  on  that  grave, 
whilst    for    a    little    while    the 

loud  wailing  was  hushed.  After  sitting  for  some 
time,  I  gave  our  presents  for  the  dead  and  the  living, 
placing  those  for  Kone  on  the  mat  covering  the  grave!" 

In  another  house  several  dishes  of  bananas  and  fish 
were  presented  ;  and  Aua,  Kone's  cousin,  who  suc- 
ceeded to  the  chieftainship,  was  very  friendly,  and 
promised  to  accompany  Mr.  Chalmers  to  Elema. 

They  left  at  once  in  the  Mayri,  which  was  navigated 
by  Bob  Samoa,  while  Mr.  Chalmers'  fine  Newtown 
boat  was  in  charge  of  a  native  called  Charlie  Oak 
assisted  by  six  others. 


NATIVE   OF   NAARA. 


112.  JAMES  CHALMERS. 

It  was  late  at  night  when  they  arrived  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Annie  River,  but  numbers  of  natives,  and  many 
of  Chalmers'  people  from  Port  Moresby,  were  waiting 
to  conduct  them  in  the  dark  to  a  safe  anchorage.  As 
the- rocking  of  the  previous  night  had  hindered  sleep, 
they  risked  crossing  the  bar,  and  were  met  by  many 
crowded  canoes.  Everybody  shouted  instructions  as 
to  their  course,  and  as  soon  as  the  anchor  was  lowered 
they  were  beset  with  questions  as  to  how  their 
fathers,  mothers,  wives,  and  children  were.  When  all 
was  safe,  Mr.  Chalmers  went  up  in  his  boat  to  visit  the 
Motu  lakatoi,  and  on  the  way  asked  a  Motu  lad  : 
"  Well,  have  you  services ;  and  do  you  observe  the 
Sabbath?" 

"Do  you  think,  Tamate,  we  forget?  We  have 
observed  every  Sabbath ;  and  every  morning  and 
evening  we  have ,  services,  and  never  omit  to  ask  a 
blessing  on  our  food." 

"  Who  conducts  your  services  ?  " 

"  Aruataera  and  Paeau." 

The  former  is  the  first  native  who  was  baptised 
in  New  Guinea,  and  the  latter  is  a  blind  boy  who 
has  long  lived  in  the  Mission  House  at  Port  Moresby. 

Bara,  the  captain  of  the  lakatoi,  led  Tamate  to  his 
own  mat.  They  had  roofed-in  the  vessel,  and  all 
lived  on  board.  Several  fires  burning  brightly  gave 
good  light,  and  put  a  cheerful  aspect  upon  things, 
especially  on  the  nine  new  canoes,  which  lay  alongside 
ready  to  be  added  to  the  lakatoi,  so  that  on 
its  return  there  would  be  thirteen  canoes  lashed 
together. 

"  Well,  Bara,  what  about  the  Word  of  God  ?  " 

"  We  remember  it,  as.  you  will  hear  from  Aruataera 
and  Paeau." 

Aruataera   comes   forward,   silence   is    called,   and 


ERRANDS   OF    PEACE,  MERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.       II3 

from  full  hearts,  led  by  the  missionary,  all  give  God 
thanks  that  they  meet  in  health. 

Arua  tells  of  the  services,  and  of  an  extra  one  on 
the  Sabbath.  Paeau  has  a  small  bullock  bell,  and  he 
keeps  up  his  old  practice,  so  long  pursued  at  Port 
Moresby,  of  ringing  round  the  village  for  each  service. 
All  are  thus  called  together,  and  a  number  of  Gulf 
natives  join  them  in  worship.* 

Mr.  Chalmers  gave  Bara  a  present  of  tobacco  to  be 
divided  among  the  crowd,  and  returned  with  Aruataera 
to  the  Mayri.  He  was  astonished  to  find  that  he  had 
counted  correctly  for  the  Sundays  ;  and  when  asked 
how  he  knew,  he  replied  that  since  leaving  Port 
Moresby  he  had  kept  a  string,  and  every  morning 
tied  a  knot,  and  the  seventh  knot  was  Jielaka,  the 
Sabbath. 

After  visiting  several  places  for  the  first  time,  he  left 
Orokolo  on  31st  October,  in  charge  of  three  hundred 
armed  men,  while  the  boys  led  the  boat  just  inside  the 
surf.  Near  Auruana  Point  the  boat  swamped,  and 
was  pulled  ashore,  where  they  left  her.  The  night 
was  spent  at  Haru  as  promised,  and  Avea,  the  chief, 
regaled  them  with  his  recollections  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lawes'  kindness  when  he  was  at  Port  Moresby.  He 
especially  spoke  of  the  rice  and  biscuits — new  food  to 
him — and  the  kind  words  that  were  spoken. 

He  said  :  "  Tamate,  tell  Misi  Lao  and  Misi  Haine 
to  come  in  a  large  ship,  and  I  will  fill  it  with  sago  for 
them." 

Mr.  Chalmers  writes  in  his  journal:  "Avea  cannot 
do  enough  to  show  kindness.  Little  did  the  friends 
at  Port  Moresby  think,  seven  years  ago,  when  giving 
the  Gulf  savage  a  smoke  and  a  little  food,  that  their 
old  friend,  Tamate,  would  reap  great  benefit  from  it. 
'  One  sows  and  another  reaps.'" 

H 


114 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


At  nine  P.M.  Avea  took  Mr.  Chalmers  into  his  house. 
A  man  kept  guard  outside.  Taking  down  a  bag 
made  of  sago  palm,  he  asked  in  a  whisper  if  Tamat6 
would  like  to  see  the  maker  of  heaven  and  earth, 
thunder  and  lightning,  south-east  and  north-west 
winds. 

"  Yes,  certainly,"  whispered  the  missionary. 
Out  they  came  ;  small  figures  of  a  man  and  woman, 
coarsely  carved.     Another  was  brought  out,  like  a 
carved  shuttlecock. 

He  placed  the  man  and  woman  side  by  side,  and 
held  up  the  shuttlecock  if  thunder  was  wanted,  or  if  it 

had  to  cease.  For  wind,  he 
placed  the  man  and  woman 
in  the  direction  it  wasrequired 
from,  and  held  the  shuttle- 
cock in  a  different  way.  He 
refused  to  sell  them,  and 
would  rather  part  with  all  he 
possessed  than  these  ancient 
heirlooms  of  his  family. 

Mr.  Chalmers  told  him  to 

be  sure  and    keep*  them   for 

him,  as  the  time  would  come, 

if  he  lived,  when  he  would  think  little  of  them.    After 

loading  with  sago,  they  sailed  for  Port  Moresby. 

Before  this  year  of  varied  service  closed,  Mr. 
Chalmers  was  called  upon  to  assist  in  punishing  the 
inhabitants  of  Kalo. 

Many  white  men  have  been  murdered  in  New 
Guinea,  and  the  natives  have  always  been  more  or 
less  punished,  but  in  no  case  to  such  advantage  as  at 
Kalo.  Since  then,  no  white  men  have  been  killed  on 
that  coast. 

A  man-of-war  came  to    make    inquiries  after   the 


SPIRIT    HOUSE. 


ERRANDS   OF   PEACE,  MERCY,  AND   JUSTICE.       II5 

event,  and  report  to  the  Commodore  of  the  station. 
Mr.  Chalmers  was  opposed  to  any  punishment  of  the 
Kalo  people,  and  refused  information. 

Some  months  after,  the  flag-ship  Wolverine,  with 
Commodore  Wilson  on  board,  came  into  the  harbour. . 
He  visited  the  Mission  House,  and  asked  Mr.  Chalmers 
to  make  his  mission  one  of  peace  as  well  as  justice, 
and  that  he  would  be  sorry  if  one  shot  were  fired. 
His  purpose  was  to  secure  the  chief  who  instigated 
the  crime  and  hang  him. 

Some  weeks  before,  Mr.  Chalmers  had  received  a 
message  from  the  murderer,  Quaibo,  "  that  he  was 
watching  everywhere,  and  would  not  be  satisfied  until 
he  had  laid  his  head  upon  his  sacred  place." 

Tamate  returned  another  message,  "  that  he  would 
visit  Kalo,  and  leave  with  his  head  upon  h'is 
shoulders,  and  not  on  the  dubu  ! "  At  the  time  when 
he  sent  this  reply,  he  did  not  know  how  it  was  to  be 
accomplished. 

]\Ir.  Chalmers  consented  to  go  with  the  Commodore. 
An  overland  party  was  sent  ashore  off  Round  Head 
in  order  that  the  Hula  natives  should  not  know  of 
their  proceedings.  Before  leaving,  the  Commodore 
said,  "  Now,  officers  and  men,  I  hope  there  will  be  no 
firing.  Remember,  there  is  neither  honour  nor  glory 
attached  to  this  business.  You  can  shoot  down  these 
savages  hundreds  of  yards  away,  and  they  must  be 
close  to  you  before  they  can  do  you  any  harm.  Try 
and  make  the  chief  a  prisoner,  and  bring  him  off." 

The  Wolverine  steamed  round  to  Hood  Bay  to 
divert  the  attention  of  the  natives,  and  prevent  them 
thinking  of  a  land  attack. 

The  natives  finding  themselves  taken  in  the  rear,  at 
once  attacked  the  blue-jackets  and  marines.  After 
three  sailors  had  been  severely  wounded,  the  young 


Il6  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

lieutenant,  seeing  the  natives  were  too  near,  ordered, 
"  Fire,"  and  the  first  to  fall,  as  they  were  afterwards 
informed,  was  Quaibo.  Four  natives  were  shot  dead 
by  the  one  volley,  and  several  wounded.  Two  were 
taken  prisoners.  There  was  no  looting,  not  a  cocoa- 
nut  was  touched,  not  a  pig  shot,  and  not  a  woman  or 
child  molested. 

After  the  firing  not  a  native  was  to  be  seen..  The 
bugle  sounded,  and  the  parties  retired.  The  Commo- 
dore would  not  rely  only  upon  the  word  of  the 
Kerepunuans  that  the  chief  was  dead.  He  wished 
that  the  body  should  be  brought.  The  people  finding 
the  British  had  left,  had  buried  the  bodies,  but 
Quaibo's  was  exhumed,  and  carried  five  miles  by  his 
people  in  order  that  it  might  be  identified. 

On  the  Monday  a  party  landed,  and  with  native 
help  destroyed  the  chief's  largest  house.  Anxious  for 
peace,  the  people  brought  pigs  and  presents,  and  the 
Commodore  gave  presents  in  return.  Everywhere 
along  the  coast  the  proceedings  had  a  wonderful 
effect.  All  the  natives  said  that  only  a  very  powerful 
chief  and  people  could  ever  act  so  :  thus  to  mingle 
mercy  with  justice,  and  show  so  much  mercy  when  all 
power  was  theirs. 


LIGHTED    TOBACCO    IX    FOLDED    LEAF,    READY    FOR    INSERTION 

IN    HOLE   OF    PIPE. 


NATIVE   VILLAGE,    ETHEL    ISLAND,    PORT    MORESBY. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


VOYAGE  IN  A  LAKATOI  TO  THE  GULF  OF 

NEW  GUINEA. 

THE  annual  visits  to  the  Gulf  of  New  Guinea  by 
Motuans  for  trade  are  the  longest  journeys 
undertaken  by  any  known  natives  of  '  New 
Guinea.  The  distance  is  about  200-miles,  the 
coast  perilous,  reefs  and  currents  abound,  and  it  re- 
quires considerable  skill  to  manage  their  cumbersome 
craft,  called  lakatois.  These  are  formed  by  placing 
canoes  in  a  row  at  some  distance  apart  and  making  a 
strong  platform  of  long  poles  across.  Upon  this  a 
deck  is  made,  and  strong  houses  erected  fore  and  aft. 
Lakatois  vary  very  much,  from  two  to  twenty  canoes 
being  employed.  Usually  there  are  from  four  to  ten 
on  the  outward  journey,  and  before  the  return  trading 
friends  help  them  to  get  large  trees  from  the  forest 
and  make  new  canoes.  These  are  added  to  the 
lakatoi  which,  thus  enlarged,  becomes  very  unwieldy, 
and  in  bad  weather  often  has  to  be  cut  in  two. 
Sometimes  the  crew  have  to  take  two  or  three 
canoes  and  save  their  lives,  allowing  all  the  remainder, 
with  the  cargo  of  sago.  Sic,  to  drift  away.     Many  of 

117 


ii8 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


these  lakatois  are  never  heard  of,  and  should  the 
crew  be  cast  away  upon  the  shores  of  an  unfriendly 
tribe  their  speedy  death  is  almost  certain. 

Mr.  Chalmers  visited  the  Gulf  several  times  in 
Mission  vessels,  but  had  long  felt  a  desire  to  take  a  trip 
in  one  of  these  strange  craft,  so,  on  October  the  4th, 
1883,  he  engaged  a  passage  on  board  the  Kevaiibada, 
commanded  by  his  old  friends,  Vaburi  and  Aruako. 


LAKATOI,   OR   VESSEL    MADE   OF    CANOES. 


For  weeks  before  the  village  of  Hanuabada  (Port 
Moresby)  had  been  the  scene  of  the  utmost  activity, 
every  one,  from  the  old  men  to  the  young  children, 
being  engaged  in  preparing  the  vessels  and  cargoes 
for  the  voyage.  Strong  men,  with  native  wooden 
hammers,  were  building  the  lakatois.  Women  were 
busy  making  pottery.  All  had  many  assistants,  and  the 
excitement  was  great.     Ever  since  -the  last  Gulf  trip 


VOYAGE   IN   A   LAKATOL  II9 

all  the  people  had  been  gathering  armlets,  shell  neck- 
laces, frontlets,  nose  and  ear  ornaments,  &c.,  and  the 
cargo  of  each  lakatoi  was  to  contain  samples  of  all 
the  things  which  pass  as  valuable  in  New  Guinea. 

Long  before  daybreak  on  the  5  th  of  October,  the 
loud  wailing  in  the  village  told  all  that  the  sago  traders 
were  really  about  to  start.  Many  canoes  followed 
the  adventurous  spirits  as  far  as  Kohu,  two  miles 
from  Port  Moresby.  Wood  and  water  were  put  on 
board,  sails  squared,  and  then  began  a  terrible  scene 
of  weeping,  howling,  tearing  of  hair,  scatching  of  faces 
until  the  blood  flowed,  and  clasping  the  loved  ones 
in  long  embraces ;  wives  their  husbands,  children 
their  parents,  and  young  ladies  their  betrothed.  It 
was  enough  to  melt  a  heart  of  stone. 

There  were  thirty-five  persons  on  the  Kevatcbada, 
which  consisted  of  four  large  canoes  lashed  together, 
with  good  bulwarks,  two  masts  with  stays  made  of 
rattan  cane,  sails  made  of  mats  and  shaped  like  the 
large  claw  of  a  crab  ;  a  platform,  two  and  a-half  feet 
wide,  ran  round  outside  the  bulwarks.  The  canoes 
were  full  of  pottery,  and  a  large  crate  in  the  centre  of 
the  vessel  was  also  full.  Upon  this  were  two  planks, 
and  here  Mr.  Chalmers  sat,  on  either  side  being  the 
two  captains,  who  were  covered  with  mats.  They 
maintained  a  solemn  demeanour,  and  seldom  spoke 
during  the  first  day.  They  said  that,  although  there 
was  a  good  breeze,  the  lakatoi  could  not  sail  well  that 
day  as  there  was  too  much  feeling  with  the  friends 
left  behind,  but  to-morrow  he  should  see  what  could 
be  done. 

The  boys  on  board  were  kept  busy  bailing  out  the 
water,  and  sang  themselves  hoarse  the  first  day.  Two 
cooking  places  for  the  crew  were  on  the  platforms 
outside   the    bulwarks.      The   captains    being   helaka 


120 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


(sacred)  had  two  special  places  inside,  and  each  had  a 
man  to  cook  for  him.  The  food  is  presented  at  each 
mast  before  cooking,  and  a  prayer  offered  to  the 
spirits  of  their  ancestors. 

When  the  dinner  was  ready  for  the  crew,  Aruako, 
the  old  robber  chief  who  formerly  was  the  leader  in 
all  evil-doing,  said,  "  Tamate,  would  you  sit  down  a 
little  until  I  ask  God's  blessing  on  this  food,  that  my 
boys  may  eat  ?  " 

In  front  of  the  entrance  to  Hall  Sound,  the  lakatoi 
was  brought  up,  and  the  robber  chief,  taking  his  little 


LAKATOI    WITH    TWO    MASTS. 


nephew  gave  him  two  wisps  of  cassowary  feathers, 
and  stood  in  front  directing  his  hand  as  he  shook  them 
with  a  peculiar  motion  towards  the  foremast,  then  he 
came  aft  and  went  through  the  same  actions  towards 
the  mainmast.  It  appears  that  some  Loloans  were 
slain  here  long  ago,  and  their  spirits  have  caused  a 
good  deal  of  trouble  ever  since,  detaining  the  lakatois, 
'hence  the  incantation  to  drive  them  away. 

On  the  9th  of  October  they  reached  Vailala  late  at 
night.  The  river  current  was  strong,  so  the  lakatoi  was 
taken   through   the  breakers   close   to  the   shore,  and 


VOYAGE   IN   A   LAKATOI.  121 

dragged  by  friendly  hands  up  the  bank.  The  excite- 
ment was  terrible.  Several  times  the  sea  threatened 
to  break  up  the  vessel,  but  she  righted,  and  the 
moment  she  grounded  about  150  black  forms  boarded 
her,  yelling  and  rubbing  noses  all  round.  Mr. 
Chalmers  says  his  nose  was  flattened  and  drawn  to 
an  angle  while  a  mass  of  pigment  covered  his  face. 

His  old  friend,  Avea,  came  on  board,  and  was 
very  demonstrative,  and  afterwards  gave  particular 
instructions  that  Mr.  Chalmers  should  not  be  molested 
on  the  roomy  verandah  of  the  dubu  placed  at  his 
disposal. 

So  ended  the  trip.  It  was  most  enjoyable,  and 
more,  comfortable  than  if  performed  in  the  whale- 
boat.  All  on  board  were  very  kind,  and  managed  the 
cumbersome  craft  well. 

The  arrival  was  celebrated  with  great  feasting, 
then  old  friends  from  all  quarters  came  entreating 
visits  to  their  villages.  •  ' 

The  next  day  the  disposal  of  the  cargoes  com- 
menced. All  the  pottery  is  arranged  in  a  row  on  the 
beach.  Two  pieces  of  wood  are  put  in  each,  and 
the  purchaser  takes  out  one  piece  and  the  owner  the 
other.  Both  parties  tie  these  carefully  up,  and  put' 
them  safely  away.  When  the  time  arrives  for  the 
lakatoi  to  return,  the  purchaser  and  his  friends  get 
the  sago  required — one  bundle  for  each  piece  of  wood. 
The  Motuan  goes  to  the  sago-house  with  his  tokens, 
counts  them,  and  then  counts  the  sago  ;  if  there  is  a 
bundle  short  a  lively  disturbance  ensues.  Bows  and 
arrows  are  always  kept  ready  for  action  in  the  event 
of  such  an  occurrence. 

Mr.  Chalmers  held  his  first  adult-school  meeting  on 
the  dubu  platform.  When  teaching  "  A,"  they  were 
convulsed  with  laughter,  but  soon  repeated  well ;  one 


122  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

handsome  old  gentleman  remembering  so  as  to  repeat 
several  letters  alone.  A  few  years  before  Mr. 
Chalmers  had  prepared  sheets  of  sentences,  the 
Commandments,  and  Lord's  Prayer  in  their  dialect, 
and  now  he  began  teaching. 

He  afterwards  tried  to  translate  two  hymns,  but 
the  Motuans  could  not  help,  as  he  found  they  did  not 
know  the  true  Elema  dialect,  but  had  a  trading 
patois.  Neither  parties  could  tell  how  that  came  to 
be  used.  With  the  help  of  Avea,  the  chief,  the  hymns 
were  finished  and  pronounced  good.  While  thus 
engaged,  a  man  sat  before  him  busily  carving  a  spoon 
out  of  a  cocoa-nut  shell.  His  only  tools  were  a  sea- 
shell  and  a  piece  of  flint.  Many  tribes  can  perform 
wonders  in  the  way  of  carving  with  only  an  iron  nail 
or  a  sharp  flint. 

Three  Maipua  lads  arrived,  and  promised  to  go 
back  with  Mr.  Chalmers,  but  rain  detained  them. 
The  Kaevakuku  now  commenced  their  proceedings. 
Two  men  in  high  masks  came  across  the  river,  and 
on  their  approach  all  shouted,  and  women  and 
children,  with  some  men  and  all  the  lads,  cleared 
away  into  the  bush.'  These  Kaevakuku  hold  their 
office  in  connection  with  a  sacred  festival,  and  have 
power  of  taboo  over  all  food  required  for  the  coming 
feast.  All  the  men  thus  engaged  are  sacred,  not 
seeing  wife  or  children  for  at  least  three  moons,  and 
do  not  live  anywhere  near  their  houses.  The  masks 
are  from  two  to  four  feet  high,  and  are  always  worn 
when  outside  the  dubu.  The  general  shape  is  like  a 
fool's  cap  with  an  animal's  face.  The  dress  differs  in 
various  tribes.  At  Vailala  they  have  a  cloak  two  and 
a-half  feet  long,  and  a  kilt  about  eighteen  inches  long, 
both  made  from  the  fibre  of  the  yellow  hibiscus.  The 
Maiva  Kaevakukus  look  like  walking  haystacks. 


VOYAGE  IN   A  LAKATOI. 


123 


Mr.  Chalmers  packed  up  a  few  things  in  the  dark, 
aided  by  his  man  Johnnie,  and  the  rest  of  the  goods 
were  locked  in  a  large  iron  box  and  left  in  charge  of 
the  chief  The  following  day  they  started  after 
breakfast,  accompanied  by  Avea  and  some  of  his 
people,  and  walked  along  the  beach  in  a  broiling  sun. 

Our  friend  longed  for  a  cocoa-nut,  but  was  told  to 


MAIVA    KAEVAKUKU. 


wait.  When  half-way  he  espied  a  white  shirt  with 
red  trappings,  and  knew  that  Apohe  awaited  him. 
He  had  an  escort  of  fifty  young  men.  The  native 
"  champagne "  (cocoa-nut  water)  was  already  in 
dozens,  and  soon  serving-men  were  flying  about 
handing  them  to  the  thirsty  travellers.    When  finished, 


124 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


more  was  asked  for,  and  orders  were  given  to  ascend 
to  the  cellars.  The  latter  supply  was  far  cooler  than 
the  former,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  declares  that  this 
drink  is  better  than  all  the  champagne  produced  in 
the  wine  countries  of  Europe. 

With  a  body-guard  now  increased  to  one  hundred, 
they  were  conducted  to  the  most  westerly  village  of 
Orokolo  to  be  nearer  to  Maipua. 

The  principal  chief, 
Mama,  received  them  in 
state  at  his  new  dubu. 
He  had  on  a  lady's  short 
jacket,  and  for  a  cap  a 
small  coloured  bag  given 
him  by  Tamate  two  years 
previously. 

Here  the  curiosity  at  the 
first  sight  of  a  white  man 
made  all  crowd  round. 
They  thought  he  had  black 
feet.  When  he  took  off 
a  boot,  the  shout,  as  of  a 
mighty  host,  defied  descrip- 
tion. It  was  repeated  at 
the  removal  of  his  sock. 
They  were  especially  aston- 
ished at  the  softness. of  the 
soles  of  his  feet.  He  felt 
safe  among  these  people, 
but  did  not  venture  upon  such  an  exhibition  to  the 
cannibals  of  Maipua. 

Unfortunately  Johnnie  had  left  the  powder  and 
beads  at  Vailala.  The  latter  were  much  in  demand. 
The  houses  were  poor,  all  the  strength  of  the  people 
was  thrown  into  building'  dubus,  which  serve  both  for 


"  Orders  ivere  given  to  Ascend 
to  the  Cellars^ 


VOYAGE   IN    A   LAKATOI.  1 25 

temples  and  club  houses — men  only  being  allowed  to 
enter. 

In  the  dubu  they  had  a  service  after  sunset,  and 
taught  about  a  dozen  of  these  heathens  to  pray,  "  O 
Lord  Jesus,  give  us  Hght,  save  us."  Quite  enough  ; 
and  will  He  not  answer  them  ? 

-  During  the  night  one  old  man  got  up  and  spoke, 
"  Tamate,  we  are  glad  you  have  come  again,  that  all 
might  see  you,  as  we  had  heard  so  much.  We  thought 
you  must  be  a  spirit,  but  now  we  see  you  are  a  man 
like  ourselves,  only  white." 

When  these  people  want  a  good  light  at  nights, 
they  burn  the  shell  of  a  young  cocoa-nut.  For  a  few 
minutes  they  have  a  bright  blaze.  These  shells  are 
all  preserved,  and  hang  in  strings  over  the  fire-places. 


TWIST   TOBACCO,   CALLED    "  KUKU.' 

Aruataera,  the  deacon,  and  Aruako,  the  robber 
chief,  told  in  all  the  dubus  the  story  of  God's  love  as 
expressed  in  the  gift  of  Christ  Again  and  again 
they  had  to  go  over  the  old  story,  the  people  being 
astonished  and  very  attentive. 

One  of  the  messengers,  sent  to  Maipua,  returned. 
When  he  told  the  people  Tamate  had  arrived  they 
said,  "  You  deceive  us  ";  but  a  piece  of  foreign  tobacco 
being  produced  with  the  question  "Is  that  like  ours," 
they  sat  down  to  have  a  smoke,  and  all  believed. 
They  kept  one  messenger  as  a  hostage,  there  being  war 
between  the  two  tribes,  so  as  to  insure  the  return  of  the 
other  man  with  Mr.  Chalmers'  party  in  the  morning. 

They  had  a  large  escorl  nearly  to  the  river  Alele, 


126  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

where  the  Maipuans  were  to  meet  them,  but  they 
returned  at  once  on  account' of  the  state  of  war.  A 
small  unsafe-looking  canoe  was  brought  over  by  one 
man,  but  Mr.  Chalmers  refused  to  enter  it,  the  river 
being  full  of  crocodiles,  and  asked  if  they  had  a  larger 
canoe. 

He  then  sent  Aruako  and  another  man  over,  and 
soon  a  large  canoe,  but  with  no  outrigger,  appeared. 
A  man  sprang  out  with  open  arms  and  gave  the 
missionary  a  hearty  squeeze.  It  was  Ipaivaitani,  the 
principal  chief  of  Maipua.  The  canoe  was  navigated 
skilfully  through  a  strong  current.  On  the  other  side 
they  took  up  the  chief's  escort,  so  that  there  were 
twenty-three  persons  in  the  canoe,  and  away  they 
pulled,  through  creeks  lined  with  palms,  mangroves, 
and  other  tropical  plants,  until  they  came  to  a  very 
large  river,  which  Mr.  Chalmers  declares  to  be 
superior  to  any  he  has  yet  seen.  He  called  the  main 
stream  the  "  Wickham."  Then  came  other  creeks 
and  stinking  swamps  ;  Maipua  being  reached  at  five 
o'clock.  It  is  a  large  village  with  splendid  houses 
and  fine  temples,  estimated  population,  1800.  The 
most  astonishing  thing  is  to  find  a  place  like  this  in 
such  a  horrible  position.  There  it  lies,  like  a  lily  in 
thetropical  swamp.  No  dry  land  can  be  seen  ;  every- 
thing is  elevated.  The  streets  are  all  laid  with  large 
trees  from  which  ladders  go  up  to  the  houses,  and 
long  platforms  of  wood  slope  up  gradually  to  the 
temples.  Small  creeks  crossed  by  good  bridges 
intersect  the  village  at  various  places.  An  interesting 
feature  is  the  elevated  flower-gardens  in  front  of  the 
houses.  A  platform  is  made  upon  long  poles,  and  a 
fence  about  two  feet  high  encloses  the  earth.  A 
profusion  of  tropical  flowers  and  also  the  tobacco 
plant  are  to  be  seen  in  all. 


127 


128  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

The  temple  in  which  Mr.  Chalmers  had  his  quarters 
was  the  finest  he  had  seen.  The  front  was  30  feet 
wide  and  the  depth  160  feet,  the  building  tapering 
gradually  back.  The  roof  in  front  projected  so  as  to 
form  a  large  peaked  shade,  which  was  supported  by 
two  posts  80  feet  high,  and  around  hung  a  graceful 
fringe  of  young  sago  leaf.  His  compartment  was 
10  feet  wide  and  20  high,  and  the  rest  of  the  space 
was  divided  into  small  courts,  save  a  long  wide 
central  aisle  which  was  carpeted  with  the  outer  skin 
of  the  sago  palm  carved  with  figures,  and  glazed  by 
the  blood  of  victims  so  frequently  dragged  over  it, 
and  by  the  constant  walking  upon  it.  At  the  end 
was  the  sacred  place.  Mr.  Chalmers  entered,  but  the 
chief  was  too  frightened  to  venture  in,  and  standing 
outside  would  only  speak  in  a  whisper.  Inside  were 
six  curious  figures  made  of  cane.  They  appeared 
like  dugongs  with  mouths  resembling  frogs.  The 
bodies  were  about  nine  feet  long  and  seven  broad,  and 
a  constant  succession  of  small  bats  flew  out  of  their 
mouths.  There  were  fire-places  in  each  court,  and  the 
men  slept  beside  them. 

Our  traveller  had  his  dinner  and  breakfast  in  one, 
but  would  have  enjoyed  it  much  better  had  there 
not  been  a  heap  of  skulls  close  by,  some  tolerably  new. 
They  were  being  cleaned  and  repaired,  and  the  whole 
temple  showed  the  utmost  taste  and  care  in  the 
cleanliness  and  arrangement  of  all  its  savage  adorn- 
ments. The  divisions  of  the  courts  were  made  with 
cocoa-nut  leaves,  to  about  nine  feet  from  the  floor, 
while  curtains  of  sago-palm  fronds  in  their  young 
state,  gracefully  hung  from  the  roof  to  the  tops  of 
the  partitions.  In  the  courts  are  skulls  of  men, 
women,  a.nd  children,  crocodiles,  wild  boars,  and 
many  breasts  of  the  cassowary.     Some  are  carved  and 


VOYAGE   IN    A   LAKATOI.  1 29 

coloured.  The  human  skulls  are  of  those  whom  they 
have  killed  and  eaten.  Man  is  their  daintiest  dish, 
and  those  are  considered  fools  who  refuse  to  eat 
of  it. 

Mr.  Chalmers  learnt  upon  inquiry  that  the  women 
first  urged  the  men  to  kill  human  beings  for  food. 
They  have  a  legend  that  once  when  returning  from 
a  successful  hunt,  with  horns  blowing  and  singing, 
the  women  came  to  meet  them  on  the  river  bank  and 
called  out,  "  What  success,  husbands  ? "  "  Great 
success,  plenty  to  eat."  When  the  canoes  came  to 
land  they  saw  large  quantities  of  wallabies,  boars,  and 
cassowaries.  They  said,  "  Who  is  going  to  eat  that 
dirty  stuff?  Is  that  your  successful  hunt ! "  The  men 
questioned  each  other  what  their  wives  meant.  One 
said,  "  I  know  ;  it  is  man."  Throwing  the  trophies 
ashore,  they  started  for  a  neighbouring  village,  and 
returned  with  ten  bodies,  but  without  the  usual  signs 
of  rejoicing.  When  the  wives  saw  what  they  had, 
they  shouted,  "  Yes,  yes,  that  is  it ;  you  have  some- 
thing worth  dancing  and  singing  for ;  that  is  what 
we  want."  The  bodies  were  singed,  cooked,  and 
eaten,  pronounced  good,  and  have  ever  since  been 
regarded  as  superior  to  any  other  flesh.  ' 

This  man-killing  led  to  the  building  of  dubus,  that 
the  men  might  be  sacred  and  apart,  and  also  to 
provide  a  sacred  place  for  Kanibu,  to  whom  the  slain 
are  presented. 

Mr.  Chalmers  slept  outside  on  the  platform,  and 
says  in  his  journal,  Aruako  fulfilled  his  promise  given 
at  Orokolo,  and  he  with  Aruataera  spoke  of  Jesus 
and  His  love.  It  was  a  strangly  weird  scene.  A 
large  dark  temple  lit  only  by  flickering  fire-lights  ; 
a  crowd  of  savages,  real  cannibals,  who  pronounce 
man  to  be  the  best  food  and  whose  wives  relish  it ; 

I 


130 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


skulls  in  abundance  ;  in  the  sacred  place  six  Kanibus, 
who  hold  life  and  death,  fighting  and  peace  within 
themselves  ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  people,  Aruako 
and  Aruataera  preaching  Christ  as  the  Revealer 
of  God's  love,  and  the  Saviour  of  sinful  men.  It 
was  the  most  attentive  congregation  of  the  kind 
Mr.  Chalmers  ever  met.  They  listened  well,  asked 
questions,  and  expatiated  freely.     Soon  after  sunset 


WHITE   GROUND    LILY. 


it  commenced,  when  he  sought  sleep  it  was  going  on, 
and  when  he  awoke  the  sun  was  up,  but  there  they 
were,  still  talking  and  listening.  He  went  inside,  and 
looking  his  friend  in  the  face  said,  "  Arua,  have  you 
been  at  it  all  night  ? "  He  was  quite  hoarse,  and 
replied,  "  Yes,  and  when  I  lay  down  they  kept  asking 


VOYAGE   IN   A   LAKATOT.  I3I 

questions,  and  I  had  to  get  up  and  explain.  But 
enough,  I  am  now  at  Jesus  Christ,  and  must  tell  them 
all  about  Him."  Mr.  Chalmers  adds,  "Yes,  my  friend 
had  reached  Him  to  whom  we  all  must  come  for  light, 
and  help,  and  peace."  When  Arua  had  finished  there 
was  but  one  response  from  all  their  lips :  "  No  more 
fighting,  Tamate\  710  more  man-eating ;  we  have  heard 
good  news,  and  we  shall  strive  for  peace.'' 

Declarations  like  this  are  music  to  the  missionary, 
for  this  he  has  left  home  and  braved  dangers,  and 
they  come  as  gleams  of  sunshine  through  the  thick 
darkness  to  gladden  his  heart. 

The  Vailala  friends  were  anxious  to  leave.  They 
were  terribly  afraid  of  being  eaten. 

Mr.  Chalmers  had  to  sing  to  the  people  constantly. 
On  the  last  day  as  two  canoe  loads  of  women  went 
up  the  creek  they  said,  "  Now  sing ;  so  that  when 
Tamate's  face  is  lost  we  may  hear  his  voice,  and 
weep  that  he  so  soon  leaves  Maipua." 

On  returning  to  Orokolo  they  were  accompanied 
as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Alele.  The  Maipuans 
were  very  sorry  to  part  with  their  new  friends,  and 
promised  to  visit  Vailala  to  secure  a  few  of  the 
Motuan  uros  (cooking  pots),  as  they  were  very  scarce, 
and  some  had  only  a  piece  of  a  pot  in  which  to  cook. 
Ipaivaitani  knotted  two  strings  with  nine  knots  and 
gave  one  to  Mr.  Chalmers.  It  signified  that  after 
nine  sleeps  (nights)  if  the  weather  were  fine,  he  would 
be  at  Vailala. 

Before  leaving  this  interesting  people,  a  few  things 
noticed  by  Mr.  Chalmers  may  be  stated.  All  are 
smokers,  and  they  often  ask  the  spirit's  blessing 
before  smoking.  They  also  sing  songs  in  reference  to 
it,  of  which  they  do  not  themselves  know  the  meaning. 
When  young  people  marry,  no  price  is  paid  for  the 


132  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

girl,  only  exchange  feasts  of  sago  are  given,  but  a 
widow  must  be  bought,  the  payment  going  to  friends 
of  the  dead  husband. 

The  majority  of  the  men  wear  nothing  at  all,  a  few 
have  a  small  string  or  vine.  The  women  have  a  short 
petticoat ;  they  are  very  modest,  and  think  themselves 
well  clothed.  Indeed,  the  climate  renders  clothing 
unnecessary  ;  and  Mr.  Chalmers  says  he  fails  to  see 
why  savages  should  be  regarded  as  immoral,  as  they 
compare  very  favourably  with  civilised  countries. 
The  question  of  more  or  less  clothing  does  not 
affect. the  morals. 

Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  party  left  in  a  large  canoe, 
with  nine  others  attending  them.  •  These  people 
were  very  sorry  to  part  with  their  new  friends.  Like 
most  tribes,  they  had  refused  to  take  them  to  people 
beyond  their  borders  ;  now,  they  were  ready  to 
promise  it  for  another  visit — "  Tamate  come  back 
soon,  very  soon  ;  do  not  disappoint  us,  and  we  will 
bring  you  everywhere  upon  the  rivers." 

Mr.  Chalmers  carried  back  a  message  of  peace 
from  Maipua  to  Orokolo.  The  next  day  he  left  for. 
Vailala  where  he  found  the  things  safe  in  the  iron 
box.  The  chief  had  placed  a  taboo  upon  that 
division  of  the  dubu.  Our  friend's  experience  is, 
that  goods  are  quite  safe  when  a  chief  is  trusted 
with  entire  charge  of  the  goods. 

All  the  Motuans  and  many  Elemaites  went  up 
the  river  to  cut  large  trees  for  canoes,  and  Mr. 
Chalmers  employed  the  time  in  building  a  house 
for  school  and  services.  The  natives  willingly 
assisted,  and  he  opened  it  on  the  following  Sunday. 
We  echo  his  prayer :  "  God  grant  that  light  cnay 
enter  the  hearts  of  these  poor  natives,  and  that  in 
this  new  house   some  may  learn  to  know  Christ  as 


VOYAGE   IN   A   LAKATOI.    .  1 33 

the  Light,, and  their  Saviour  from  sin  and  superstition 
and  all  their  consequences." 

They  had  short  rations  for  some  days,  as  all  food 
was  being  kept  for  the  festival  of  Kaevakuku.      Of 
course,  Mr.  Chalmers  was  invited  to  go,  but  preferred 
mixing  with  the  crowd;  as  he  could  see  the  proceed- 
ings better.     The  platforms  in  front  of  the  dubus  were 
heaped    up  with   food,   it  was    also   hung    on    poles. 
A  man  with  a  tall  mask  came  from  the  bush  ;  he  was 
gaudily  dressed,   and    danced    about;    an    old    man 
presented  him   with   a   large  piece  of  pork,   and   he 
retired.     A  second  man,  dressed  like  the  first,  came 
and  received  a  large  pig,  then  five  together,  and  in 
succession    various    groups,  until    the  whole   eighty 
such  men  had  appeared.     Some  were  displeased  with 
the  smallness  of  their  present,  and  remained  until  they 
got  more.      Mr.  Chalmers  went  into  the  ^bsh  and 
found  all  the  men  busy  cooking  some  of  the  food. 
Near  at  hand  was  a  large  representation  of  the  spirit 
Semese.     It   was  a  mask   ten  feet   high   and   three 
broad,  surrounded  with  feathers,  and  curiously  painted 
down   the   middle.      As  all   these  masks   are   burnt 
at  the  close  of  the  ceremonies  each  year,  he  tried  to 
secure    some  ;    they  refused,  but,  assisted   by  a  few 
friends,  he  secured  seven,  and  had  them  hidden  in  the 
dubu,  but  neither  love  nor  tomahawks  could  secure 
Semese.      Soon  fires  were  lighted,  and  masks,  cloaks, 
and  kilts  were  all  ablaze.      The  Jielaka  (sacred  time) 
was  now  over,  and  these  men  returned  to  their  homes, 
which  they  had  not  visited  for  several  months.     Truly, 
heathenism     is    very    exacting    upon    its    followers. 
When    the   new  house   was    about   to   be  opened, 
the   Mission  hosX,  Rarotonga^   appeared   a  long  way 
off  at  sea.     The  service  was  held,  and  Mr.  Chalmers 
enjoyed   it  thoroughly,  though   most   English  nerves 


134 


JAMES  CHALMERS. 


would  have  been  sorely  taxed,  as  the  house  was 
packed  and  a  larger  number  pressed  outside.  He 
says,  "The  noise  and  confusion  were  truly  awful. 
Everybody  was  trying  to  quiet  everybody  else,  and 
nobody  was  to  be  shut  up  by  any  other  body.  The 
women  were  much  worse  than  the  men.  We  had 
quiet  at  times,  and  especially  at  the  close.  I  like 
these  first  services  ;  it  is  most  interesting,  years  after, 
to  visit  the  people  and  see  the  change." 

They  had  a  very  high  sea  and  strong  wind  on  most 
days  of  the  return  journey,  but  arrived  safely  at  Port 
Moresby  on  the  ist  of  November.  When  they  reported 
all  well  on  the  lakatois,  great  was  the  rejoicing;  and 
the  feat  accomplished  in  coming  such  a  distance  in  an 
open  boat  through  formidable  seas  and  strong  winds 
has  ever  since  been  recounted  as  a  wonder  all  along 
that  coast. 


^^^^^^^^ 


MOUNT  OWEN   STANLEY,   SADDLE-BACK   VIEW 


CHAPTER  VII. 


MISSION  WORK  —  PROTECTORATE  PROCLAIMED— 
TOUR  WITH  THE  SPECIAL  COMMISSIONER, 
1 884- 1 885— RETURN   TO   ENGLAND,    1 886. 

THE    year    1884  appears  to    have   been  marked 
by  great   activity  on    Mr.    Chalmers'  part   in 
pioneer    Mission   work,   such    as   visiting   the 
various  stations,  removing,  settHng,  and  chang- 
ing the  locations  of  teachers  as  the  circumstances  of 
the  Mission  seemed  to  require. 

It  began  well,  for  of  all  their  pleasant  gatherings 
and  meetings  in  New  Guinea,  those  most  thought  of, 
longed  for,  and  enjoyed,  are  at  the  New  Year,  when 
teachers  from  East  and  West,  with  their  representa- 
tive men  from  all  the  tribes,  assemble  at  Port 
Moresby  for  a  thorough  good  time  of  feasting  and 
talking. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  meeting  of  the  series 

^35 


136 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


is  the  midnight  service.  Closing  the  old  year  with 
all  its  work  for  God,  its  dangers  and  deliverances,  its 
failures  and  successes,  its  hopes  and  joys,  its  waiting 
and  sorrow ;  and  welcoming  the  new  with  hopes  for 
unknown  good  predominant  in  each  heart. 

Mr.  Chalmers  thinks  that  these  midnight  meetings 
will  compare  favourably  with  the  best  which  are  held 
in  England,  so  far  as  concerns  the  fervour  and  hearti- 
ness of  the  congregation. 

The  service  is  generally  a  short  one,  but  at  Kere- 
punu    this    year   it    occupied    four    hours,    certainly 
longer   than    any    New   Guinea    native   could    keep 
awake  without  some  great  exciting 
cause. 

On   New  Year's  morning  about 
5.30  the  bell  rings,  and  a  large  con- 
gregation    assembles     for    praise, 
prayer,  and  a  short  address.     After 
that   there   begins    a   very  serious 
business.      All  the  teachers,  with 
their  strong  young  men,  doff  their 
Sunday  clothes,  and  take  to   pig- 
sticking and  cleaning;  some  dig  an 
oven  about  nine  feet  in  diameter,  into  which  a  large 
quantity  of  wood  is  placed  and  fired.    On  the  top  stones 
are  heaped.    The  women  meanwhile  are  washing  yams, 
taro,  potatoes,  and  bananas,  and  when  the  stones  are 
at  white  heat  the    men  with   long  sticks  flatten    the 
oven,  on  which  the  food  is  placed,  and  covered  over 
with    various    layers    of    banana    leaves.      A    large 
quantity  of  earth  is  placed  on  the  leaves,  so  that  not  a 
jet  of  steam  can  escape.     This  is  by  far  the  best  way 
of  cooking  native  food  and  pork,  and  as  clean  as  any 
other  mode.     When    the  oven  is  covered  all  have  a 
bath  and  go  home  to  dress.     The  bell  is  rung  for  the 


MOTU    SHIELD. 


MISSION   WORK. 


137 


great  meeting  of  the  time.  The  chapel  is  always  well 
packed,  and  many  are  the  dialects  used  by  the 
speakers.  Teachers  and  their  talking  followers  give 
their  utterances,  and  the  modes  of  looking  at  things 
differ  widely.  To  some  the  Gospel  simply  means 
peace  between  tribes.  That  is  a  great  deal,  if  you 
know  the  strange  unrest  which  accompanies  savage 
life,  and  the  horrors  of  its  warfare.  Others  look  upon 
the  Gospel  as  the  bringer  of  the  good  things  of  this 
life,  and  appraise  its  blessings  as  a  good  supply  of 
tobacco,  tomahawks,  beads,  and  salt  ;  but  some  can 


TATTOOED    NATIVES. 


appreciate  it  as  God's  message  of  love  to  man,  and 
the  record  of  a  life  we  are  Divinely  commanded  and 
assisted  to  imitate.  All  the  addresses  are  short,  and 
not  without  point. 

Mr.  Chalmers  declares  that  he  has  never  met  a 
tribe  who  desired  to  have  teachers  so  that  they  might 
be  taught  the  Gospel,  and  he  does  not  believe  there 
ever  has  been  one;  all  like  the  teachers  because  of  the 
worldly  gospel  they  bring.  Soon  they  learn  differ- 
ently, and  begin  to  appreciate  the  teachers  for  their 
teaching. 


138  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

When  the  meeting  is  over  there  is  a  strong  desire 
on  the  part  of  all  to  be  free  and  enjoy  the  excitement 
which  always  accompanies  a  feast.  The  oven  is  soon 
uncovered,  and  all  the  food  taken  out  and  collected  in 
one  place.  The  division  of  the  food  is  a  long  business. 
Fortunately  it  is  with  New  Guineans,  as  with  all 
Polynesians,  a  matter  of  indifference  whether  their 
food  is  warm  or  cold.  Teachers,  chiefs,  attendants, 
church  members,  school  children,  and  widows,  all 
come  in  for  a  share.  When  the  food  is  divided 
a  blessing  is  asked ;  and  as  each  name  is  called  some 
one  lifts  the  food  and  carries  it  away.  Then  thirty 
or  forty  groups  of  men,  women,  and  children,  may  be 
seen  enjoying  pork  and  vegetables,  and  leaving  the 
larger  portion  of  their  share  to  be  taken  home.  By 
the  time  the  feast  is  over  it  is  late  in  the  afternoon, 
and  no  other  meeting  is  held.  The  next  morning  the 
missionaries  meet  the  teachers  and  their  wives. 
After  that  the  women  retire  to  another  room,  and 
encourage  each  other  in  their  work,  while  their 
husbands  hand  in  their  reports,  state  their  grievances, 
and  ask  advice. 

The  Mission  has  now  become  so  extended,  and  the 
stations  so  numerous  that  all  cannot  come  to  Port 
Moresby,  so  three  district  meetings  have  been 
arranged  to  be  held  at  Delena,  Port  Moresby,  and 
Kerepunu. 

In  February,  1884,  the  Mission  ship  John  Williams 
arrived  with  thirteen  teachers  and  their  wives,  under 
the  care  of  the  Rev.  W.  Wyatt  Gill,  B.A.  These 
were  at  once  distributed  amongst  the  old  stations,  to 
have  the  care  of  the  acclimatised  teachers  until  the 
south-east  monsoon,  when  they  would  be  placed  at 
their  own  stations. '  Teachers  are  almost  sure  to  have 
fever  on  their  arrival  in  New  Guinea,  and  it  is  better 


MISSION   WORK.  139 

that  they  should  be  placed  where  they  can  receive 
attention. 

In  May  Mr.  Chalmers  began  to  place  these  teachers 
at  their  own  stations. 

The  first  located  was  Sunia.  His  wife  had  died, 
and  Tamatd  could  not  leave  him  alone  in  a  place. 
At  Port  Moresby  was  a  young  and  energetic  Christian 
widow  from  the  Hervey  group,  who  knew  the  Motu 
dialect,  so  he  proposed,  was  accepted,  and  married  in 
one  day,  and  the  next  was  sailing  with  the  missionary 
to  Tupuselei.  The  natives  were  delighted  to  have  a 
teacher  again.  From  thence  Mr.  Chalmers  proceeded 
to  Kapakapa.  Here  were  two  new  teachers  who  were 
destined  for  the  fine  district  of  Saroa,  behind  Round 
Head.  For  a  long  time  these  had  been  expected,  and 
the  people  were  busy  for  months"  paying  compensa- 
tion for  murders  committed,  and  making  peace. 
Houses  also  had  been  erected  in  two  villages,  in 
which  the  teachers  were  soon  at  home.  Other  places 
were  visited,  and  everywhere  entreaties  were  made  for 
more  teachers. 

Mr.  Chalmers  returned  to  Port  Moresby,  and  made 
preparations  to  sail  in  the  Ellangowan  for  the  west.  . 
There  lies  the  largest  population,  who  are  the  freest, 
wildest,  and  kindest  of  New  Guineans.  They  had 
repeatedly  asked  for  teachers,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  has 
always  said,  "  Send  our  youngest,  strongest,  and 
bravest  teachers  to  the  west." 

The  Ellangozvan  first  called  at  Motumotu,  and  Mr. 
Chalmers  procured  a  canoe  and  went  up  the  river  to 
Moveave,  which  he  had  long  wished  to  visit.  His  ' 
friends  the  Motumotuans  had  been  at  enrhity  with, 
the  Moveaveans,  and  this  visit  had  also  the  happy 
character  of  peace-making  about  it.  They  were  at 
first  met  by  a  large  armed  party,  which  was  soon 


140 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


changed  into  a  demonstrative  peace  party.  Semese, 
the  Motumotu  chief,  proclaimed  words  of  peace,  which 
were  repeated  by  all,  and  friendship  was  restored. 
The  population  was  large,  the  houses  well  built,  and 
there  were  many  dubus. 

Fires  were  started,  and  pots  containing  queer  viands 
were  placed  upon  them.  Large  presents  of  uncooked 
food   were   also   made.      Mr.    Chalmers   had    a   dish 


MAN    IN    GALA   DRESS,  WITH    DRUM. 


which  he  thought  was  made  of  sago  and  dried  fish, 
but  upon  inquiry  found  he  had  been  relishing  stewed 
iguana ! 

When  the  crowd  had  enjoyed  a  smoke  all  round, 
they  called  for  hymns ;  so  arranging  his  singing 
companions,  they  sang,  and  were  again  and  again 
encored ;    but    the    sun    was    sinking    quickly,    and 


MISSION    WORK. 


T4I 


bidding  them  good-bye,  he  returned  to  Motumotu. 
Mr.  Chalmers  arrived  there  just  in  time  to  see  one 
of  the  most  interesting  and  fairy-like  sights  which  he 
has  yet  witnessed  in  New  Guinea.  A  thorough  fancy- 
dress  ball  was  being  held,  and  in  front  about  thirty 
young  men  were  drumming,  dancing,  and  singing. 
Behind  them  were  younger  ones  arm  in  arm,  and 
behind  these,  children  holding  one  another's  hands,  all 
actively  engaged.  From  the  child  of  four  to  the 
young  man  and  maiden  of  twenty,  all  were  happy  and 
earnest.  Every  head  was  curiously  cropped,  in  square, 
circle,  or  triangle,  their  faces  were  painted  in  colours, 
and  variegated  leaves  hung 
from  arms,  waists,  and  legs. 
The  ladies  had  beautiful 
petticoats  of  palm  leaves 
dyed  various  colours,  and  all 
had  plumes  of  young  palm 
fronds  fastened  on  their 
backs,  and  rising  overhead 
like  the  Prince  of  Wales' 
escutcheon  of  feathers.  Moth- 
ers stood  admiringly  around,  head  of  maiva  man. 
giving  suggestions  and  en- 
couraging words,  while  the  visitors  and  men  of  the 
place  sat  in  the  midst  of  the  village. 

At  sunset  all  retired  to  their  homes. 

On  Sunday  they  had  two  well-attended  services  for 
singing  and  preaching,  but  here,  as  in  some  other 
parts  of  New  Guinea,  prayer  drives  the  congregation 
to  their  homes. 

Securing  Motumotu  is  a  great  gain  to  the  mission  ; 
not  only  for  the  gain  of  the  large  population  in  it, 
but  also  for  the  sake  of  other  stations,  which  were 
kept  in  a  state  of  fear  by  these  marauders. 


142  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

What  a  change  the  Gospel  has  made  in  Maiva.-  A 
few  years  since  Mr.  Chalmers  slept  on  platforms,  and 
in  streets  and  dubus,  wondering  if  his  life  was  safe  ; 
now  he  is  lodged  in  a  comfortable  teacher's  house, 
near  churches  where  every  day  Christ  is  preached, 
and  surrounded  by  friendly  natives  whose  chief 
anxiety  is  to  make  him  comfortable.  Only  the 
Gospel  of  Christ  could  have  produced  such  results. 

He  had  now  been  for  three  weeks  hard  at  work  by 
land  and  sea,  but  took  his  rest  in  working  leisurely, 
by  placing  teachers  at  Kivori.  What  is  tranquil  work 
to  Tamate  would  be  full  stretch  to  a  weaker  man. 

On  Sunday  he  met  five  people  at  Maiva  who  were 
anxious  for  baptism.  One  was  an  old  friend,  who 
begged  earnestly  to  be  received  into  the  Church  of  Christ. 

The  next  day  there  was  one  of  those  soul-stirring 
gatherings,  only  to  be  seen  in  heathen  lands, 
composed  of  crowds  who  have  come  from  places  near 
and  far  to  see  the  first  native  converts  baptised. 

These  five  men  had  long  been  connected  with  the 
Mission,  and  had  held  short  services  in  other  villages. 
There  was  no  doubt  concerning  their  faith.  It  had 
been  proved  long  since  by  their  works. 

If  attendances  at  church  and  willingness  to  wear 
clothing  were  sufficient,  then  thousands  should  long 
ago  have  been  baptised.  But  that  would  only  lower 
the  privilege  of  Church  membership,  and  no  good 
would  be  gained.  The  enlightening  goes  on,  and  one 
after  another  is  led  from  dense  darkness,  by  an  ever- 
brightening  dawn,  to  the  full  light  of  glorious  freedom 
in  Christ  and  His  Cross. 

The  next  place  at  which  a  teacher  was  placed  was 
Namoa.  Here  Queen  Koloka  reigns,  and  says  she  is 
"all  same  as  Vitoria."  On  the  way  the  Mission 
boat,    heavily    laden    with     eighteen     persons     and 


MISSION   WORK. 


143 


teachers'  goods,  was  nearly  swamped.  They  had  the 
usual  kind  reception,  and  all  were  delighted  that  the 
teacher  had  at  last  arrived.  Koloka  said,  "  I  did  not 
think  you  intended  keeping  your  word  ;  it  has  been 
long  to  wait." 

Mr.  Chalmers  then  returned  to  Port  Moresby. 


KOITAPU   YOUTH,    NEW   GUINEA. 

In  July  Mr.  Chalmers  made  a  tour"  of  inspection  to 
leave  teachers'  supplies,  and  located  a  teacher  at  Kalo. 
At  Hula  he  distributed  presents  from  the  Government 
of  Queensland  to  the  natives  who  had  rendered 
timely  help  at  the  wreck  of  a  vessel. 


144  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Since  the  visit  of  H.M.S.  Wolverine  in  1881, 
when  the  natives  were  punished  for  the  cruel  massacre 
of  the  teachers,  they  had  been  desirous  that  another 
should  be  sent  to  them.  One  had  been  selected,  but 
was  prevented  by  fever  from  taking  up  the  work.  A 
good  house  was  ready,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  called  at 
Hula  to  take  Tau  and  his  wife  with  him.  Some  men 
had  visited  Hula  the  week  before,  determined  to  carfy 
off  their  teacher,  and  said  they  feared  the  missionaries 
were  only  going  to  deceive  them.  Mr.  Chalmers  sent 
and  informed  them  of  his  arrival,  and  on  Sunday  two 
of  the  chiefs  and  many  people  came  over  from  Kalo 
to  the  services. 

The  next  day  he  took  Tau  and  his  wife,  with  some 
of  their  goods,  over,  and  had  a  most  enthusiastic 
reception.  After  paying  for  the  house,  Mr,  Chalmers 
gave  presents  to  the  four  chiefs,  and  begged  them  to 
be  kind  to  the  teacher.  The  chiefs  son,  one  of  the 
active  murderers,  told  Mr.  Chalmers  that  the  piece  of 
land  belonging  to  the  Society  had  not  been  touched, 
and  he  hoped,  as  the  past  had  been  forgiven,  Tau 
would  take  it  and  commence  planting.  Kalu,  a  chief 
who  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  massacre,  told  the 
Hula  teacher  that  they  were  all  afraid  and  ashamed,' 
but  now  felt  more  comfortable,  and  would  help  the 
teacher.  In  the  afternoon,  the  son  of  the  chief  Ouaibo, 
who  planned  the  attack,  brought  a  pig  and  some 
food. 

As  everything  bore  such  a  pleasing  aspect,  Mr. 
Chalmers  determined  to  remain.  The  Hula  friends 
returned  home.  When  all  was  quiet  and  dark,  he 
doubted  whether  he  had  done  right  in  remaining,  lest 
he  should  be  the  means  of  leading  his  teachers  and 
boat's  crew  into  trouble.  No  European  had  slept 
there  since  the  massacre.     They  were  unarmed,  and 


MISSION   WORK. 


145 


these  natives  had  often  said  that  nothing  but  Mr. 
Chalmers'  head  would  satisfy  them.  If  all  went  well, 
however,  it  would  be  a  good  augury  for  the  future. 
The  people  were  pleased  that  he  showed  such 
confidence  in  them,  and  we  trust  his  parting  prayer  has 
already  been  answered  :  "  May  He  who  protected  us 
soon  become  known  unto  them." 

Mr.  Chalmers  now  proceeded  eastward  to  Aroma 
calling  at  Kerepunu  to  take  up  the  teacher  and  his 
wife,  who  were  appointed  to  Belerupu,  in  Macfarlane 
Harbour.     They  had  both  had  fever,  but  were  better, 


NEW   GUINEA    DRUMS   AND    PIPE. 


and  wearying  to  be   at  work.     The  settlement  was 

happily  effected,  and  Tamate  returned  to   Parimata, 

near  .Keppel    Point,  where  his  old   friend   Koapena 

lived.     This  chief  exercises  sway  throughout  Aroma 

in  a  fatherly  way,  and  is  looked  up  to  by  natives  all 

along  the  coa&t.     Whenever  anything  happens,  the 

first  question  asked  is,  "  What  does   Koapena  say  ?  " 

And   he  is  worthy  of  this   regard,   being  the  finest 

physical  specimen  of  a  native  known  in  the  Western 

Pacific,  and  the  natives'  beau-ideal  of  a  chief 

K 


146  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Mr.  Chalmers  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  with 
his  friend.  He  spoke  of  the  teacher,  and  asked 
Koapena  when  he  was  going,  to  believe  the  Gospel. 
Turning  to  the  teacher  who  was  interpreting  he  said, 
"Teach  me  more,  only  keep  teaching  me,  and  if  you^ 
had  done  that,  I  might  have  been  the  first  to  under- 
stand and  believe."  Mr.  Chalmers  was  pleased  to 
hear  his  big  strong-minded  friend  speak  so  earnestly. 

By  daylight,  next  morning,  Tamate  was  in  his 
boat,  speeding  before  a  fine  breeze,  and  arrived  in 
Hula  just  in  time  to  avoid  some  bad  weather..  There 
he  received  a  letter  from  Tau- of  Kalo,  saying  they 
were  treating  him  kindly.  Tau  also  sent  a  few  limes, 
from  a  tree  planted  by  the  former  teacher,  and  said 
that  they  would  have  oranges  the  following  year. 

Fearing  a  continuance  of  unsettled  weather,  Mr. 
Chalmers  left  Hula  that  night,  and  ran  along  before- 
a  strong  wind  at  such  a  rate  that  they  passed  Barrier' 
Reef,  and  landed  safe  at  Port  Moresby  by  4.30  A.M. 
His  words  penned  then,  we  hope,. are  near  fulfilment : 
"  So  east  and  west  we  keep  extending  ;  and,  I  trust, 
will  continue  to  do  so  until  New  Guinea  is  occupied 
with  earnest  men  and  women  preaching  Christ,  and 
leading  thousands  to  Him." 

Peace-making  AT  Kabadi  in  1884. 

Mr.  Chalmers  again  figured  in  his  old  character  as 
a  peacemaker  in  1884.  He  received  a  message  from 
Kabadi  that  they  wished  to  see  him  about  teachers' 
houses,  and  hoped  to  have. teachers  living  there  soon. 
Of  course  this  did  not  arise  out  of  any  desire  to  know 
the  Gospel,  their  ideas  went  more  towards  the 
possession  of  tomahawks,  knives,  beads,  tobacco,  and 
cloth;      They   also    saw  that   tliose    tribes   who   had 


GOURA   PIGEONS,    NEW   GUINEA. 


147 


148  JAMES   CHALMERS, 

teachers  lived  in  peace,  and  did  not  fear  their  neigh- 
bours. 

It  would  be  a  long  sad  story  of  savage  life — its 
fighting,  murdering  of  men,  women,  and  children,  and 
one  tribe  assisting  the  other  in  revenge,  until  our 
minds  could  hardly  follow  the  many  turnings  and 
phases — if  we  were  to  attempt  to  tell  the  exact  relations 
between  Kabadi  and  all  its  neighbours.  The  imme- 
diate danger  seemed  to  come  from  the  war  rumours 
respecting  the  Motumotuans.  Eighteen,  trading 
lakatois  had  left  Motumotu,  but  the  strong  south- 
west wind  had  prevented  them  coming  far  east. 
Some,  however,  which  had  been  reduced  in  size, 
reached  Port  Moresby.  From  their  statement  that 
they  wanted  teachers,  and  to  be  at  peace  all  round, 
especially  with  Kabadi,  Mr..  Chalmers  discredited 
the  rumours.  Lealea,  for  several  generations,  had 
also  been  at  enmity  with  Kabadi,  and  upon  a  letter 
coming  from  the  teacher  Piri,  that  Kahorera,  a 
Motumotu  chief,  was  at  Boera  wishing  to  make  peace 
with  Kabadi,  Tamate  resolved  to  attempt  to  reconcile 
these  three  people  by  one  visit.  He  called  at  Lealea 
and  Boera,  and  arranged  for  the  Motumotuans  to 
follow  him,  then  went  on,  and  took  up  the  two  old 
chiefs,  Gaririu  and  Leaua.  . 

Arriving  at  Totu  in  the  evening,  the  boat  got  on 
the  end  of  the  bar,  and  filled  with  water.  Fortunately 
nothing  was  lost,  but  it  meant  a  damp  night  on  the 
beach,  with  the  mosquitoes  attacking  in  force.  He 
was  visited  that  night  by  Urevado,  the  leading  chief, 
and  owner  of  nearly  all  the. land  in  Kabadi..  It  was 
interesting  to  watch  the  meeting  of  this  worthy  and 
the  Lealea  chiefs.  They  threw  their  arms  round  one 
another,  rubbed  noses,  and  expressed  great  pleasure. 
Urevado   said,  "  You    have   never   been   here  before 


MISSION   WORK.  149 

because  of  our  fathers.  Enough,  let  their  enmity  now 
die,  and  here  is  Kabadi  before  you  to  buy  yams, 
bananas,  and  sugar-cane,  whenever  you  like  to  come." 
The  others  replied,  "  'Tis  because  of  these,  God's  men, 
we  are  enabled  thus  to  meet ;  and  we  shall  certainly 
come  here  in  future  for  food.  Often  have  we  seen 
the  laden  canoes  of  Boerans  and  Motuans  pass  our 
doors  from  Kabadi,  and  wished  we  too  could  only 
secure  some ;  but  now  we  shall  be  as  they  are." 

Through  the  whole  long  night  the  two  old  men 
talked  of  the  past,  of  their  happiness  at  peace  being 
made,  and  of  their  hopes  for  the  future. 

Mr.  Chalmers  sent  a  canoe  in  the  early  morning  to 
look  for  the  Motumotuans,  but  while  away,  the  Boera 
chief  and  a  woman  from  one  of  the  Motumotu 
canoes,  came  to  the  village,  and  said  all  were  waiting 
to  make  peace  and  to  get  supplies  of  food.  Mr. 
Chalmers  objected  to  the  latter  on  account  of  the 
long  time  he  would  be  detained,  and  it  would  be  too 
great  a  mark  of  subjection  to  the  marauding  Motu- 
motuans  to  exact  food  from  Kabadi  immediately  on 
peace  being  made.  The  meeting  took  place,  not  on 
shore,  but  in  the  several  canoes  and  boats.  The 
Kabadians  were  staid  and  firm  on  meeting  the  wild 
men  from  the  West,  but  showed  them  much  kindness, 
first  rubbing  noses,  then  rubbing  them  all  over. 
They  exchanged  betel-nut,  and  all  sat  down  together 
chewing.  Urevado  approached  in  Piri's  boat,  and 
when  about  a  mile  from  the  meeting  place,  stood  up 
in  the  bow,  dressed  in  a  white  shirt,  once  the  property 
of  Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes.  Though  trying  to  appear  care- 
less, he  was  evidently  in  •  great  terror.  Two  of  Mr. 
Chalmers'  Gulf  friends,  Rahemaken  and  Tore,  asked 
Mr.  Chalmers  to  let  them  receive  Urevado  as  their 
special   friend,  and  as  it  was  for  the  advantage  of 


ISO  JAMES   CHALMERS.  • 

Kabadi  he  consented.  They  both  stepped  on  board 
the  boat,  took  him  by  the  hand,  and  leading  him  to 
their  canoe,  rubbed  noses  again,  and  swore  friendship, 
saying,  "  Kabadi  must  never  be  touched  again."  Mr. 
Chalmers  had  followed  Urevado  to  the  canoe,  and 
kept  close  to  him  lest  his  fear  should  overcome  hirn, 
and  cause  him  to  plunge  into  the  river.  The  negoti- 
ators then  made  exchanges ;  the  Motumotuans  giving 
bows  and  arrows,  the  Kabadians  their  lime  calabashes 
and  small  net  bags.  After  spending  more  than  an 
hour  together,  they  returned  to  their  own  boats,  and, 
Avith  many  farewells,  pulled  across  the  harbour,  while 
the  Motumotuans  awaited  a  larger  canoe.- 
.  Mr.  Chalmers  told  the  Motumotuans  to  leave 
quickly,  as  they  were  a  bad  lot,  and  no  village  was 
safe  while  they  were  on  the  coast ;  also  that  he  would 
bring  them  teachers  soon,  and  hoped  they  would  then 
be  better.  They  laughed,  and  said,  "  Be  quick  and 
come ;  you  know  the  house  is  ready,  large,  and  well 
built."  They  were  anxious  to  know  if  their  teachers 
were  big  men,  and  were  delighted  when  told  th-at 
they  were  so.  "It  is  a  great  mistake,"  says  Mr. 
Chalmers,  "  to  send  out  men  of  small  stature  to  these 
savages.  Pick  the  giants,  and  they  make  their  mark 
at  once  ;  the  wild,  kind,  nobly-built  savage  will 
respect  them." 

They  returned  to  Lealea,  where  there  was  great 
delight  at  the  result  of  the  peace  effected.  The  coast 
villages  all  felt  their  food  for  that  year  safe,  now  that 
the  wild  Motumotuans  had  gone  home. 

The  Protectorate  Proclaimed.  : 

While  engaged  in  the  happy  but  anxious  work  of 
placing  teachers   among   his  wild    favourites  in    the 


MISSION   WORK. 


151 


Gulf  of  New  Guinea  Mr.  Chalmers  received  a  letter 
from  Rev.  W,  G.  Lawes  stating  that  Commissioner 
Romilly,  instructed  by  the  British  Government,  had 
hoisted  the  British  flag  and  proclaimed  a  Protector^ 


BRIDGE    NEAR    KABADI. 


ate  over  the  unannexed  part  of  New  Guinea.  He 
hastened  back  as  Mr.  Lawes  suggested,  and  found 
two  men-of-war   already  there   awaiting   the   arrival 


152  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

of  the  Commodore  in  the  Ne/son,  which  arrived' on  the 
2nd  of  November,  1884,  accompanied  by  the  Swinger, 
Espiegie,  and  Dart. 

The  first  essential  to  an  important  occasion  in  the 
eyes  of  a  native  is  a  feast,  so  on  the  5th  of"  November 
all  the  chiefs'  from  a  coast  line  of  sixty  miles  assembled 
•on  the  Nelson,  and  after  the  needful  feeding  the 
Commodore  read  the  address  which  was  interpreted 
by  the  Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes,  and  all  said  that  they 
understood  what  it  meant.  Then  each  chief  received 
a  suitable  present  from  the  Commodore,  and  were 
much  astonished  by  the  firing  of  several  shots  from 
two  of  the  large  guns.  Then  at  night  they  viewed  the 
electric  light,  blue  lights,  and  rockets,  and  thoroughly 
appreciated  them  ;  but  when  the  climax  of  the  day 
came,  in  the  weird,  fiendish,  and  altogether  unearthly 
noise  of  the  syren  (steam  fog-trumpet),  man  and 
beast  became  alarmed.  Sometimes  it  sounded  as  if 
away  back  in  the  hills,  then  as  if  in  the  village,  then 
from  the  reef,  and  finally  from  a  long,  long  distance, 
only  to  shriek  forth  again  uncannily  close  at  hand. 
Dogs  at  first  rushed  .madly  about,  but  soon  escaped 
into  snug  places  where  they  thought  themselves  safe. 
Human  beings  asked  one  another  what  it  meant, 
grew  alarmed,  fearful  lest  some  fiends  had  been 
exorcised  to  this  sphere,  and  they  too  sought  their 
homes.  Thus  for  one  night  at  least  perfect  peace 
reigned  in  Port  Moresby  though  many  strangers 
were  in  it. 

November  the  6th  was  the  day  for  the  official  act 
on  shore  which  was  to  supersede  all  the  previous  ones, 
and  will  ever  be  remembered  by  all  who  witnessed 
the  doings  of  Her  Majesty's  officials. 

Soon  after  breakfast,  boats  landed  numbers  of  blue- 
jackets and  marines,  followed  by  Commodore  Erskine 


PROTECTORATE   PROCLAIMED.  1^3 

and  a  large  number  of  officers,  accompanied  by  the 
band  of  the  Nelso?i. 

They  marched,  with  the  band  playing,  up  to  the 
Mission  premises,  where  the  great  act  was  to  take 
place.  The  men  were  arranged  round  the  flag- 
staff;' the  Commodore,  his  officers,  and  the  mis- 
sionaries stood  under  the  verandah  of  the  Mission 
House.  Artists  and  photographers  were  also  in  good 
places,  and  when  all  was  ready  the  Commodore  read 
•  Her  Majesty's  proclamation.  This  was  translated  by 
Mr.  Lawes,  and  all  the  natives  acquiesced.  After 
firing  and  cheering  the  proceedings  ended. 


PEAK    OF    MOUNT    YULK. 


The  fleet  proceeded  along  the  coast,  and  the  cere- 
mony of  annexation  was  repeated  at  Hall  Sound  and 
at  Motumotu,  Fresh-water  Bay.  At  each  place  a  stick, 
with  a  silver  queen's-head  like  a  florin  on  the  top, 
was  given  to  the  chief  who  was  regarded  as  the 
principal  one.  At  the  latter  place  this  was  given  to 
Semese,  who  is  the  very  picture  of  what  an  old  savage, 
warrior  should  be. 

Then  the  ships  went  to  Hood  Bay  and  Aroma, 
Toulon,  Argyle  Bay,  Suau,  Moresby  Island,  Dinner. 


154       ■  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

Island,  the  Killerton  Islands,  Discovery  Bay,  and  to 
Kabi,  Milne  Bay,  and  Teste  Island,  in  the  Louisiade 
Islands.  Here  the  ceremony  of  proclaiming  and 
explaining  was  ended/  Mr.  Chalmers  accompanied 
the  Commodore  as  interpreter  and  whipper-in  of  the 
natives,  who  in  many  places  have  good  reason 
to  fear  Australian  ships.,  H.M.S.  Raven  ■  took 
Mr.  Chalmers  to  South  Cape,  where  he  resumed  his 
Mission  work  in  placing  New  Guinea  natives,  who 
had  been  trained  in  the  Port  Moresby  Institution,  as 
teachers  amongst  their  own  countrymen.  He  finished 
his  work  and  returned  to  Port  Moresby.  But  almost 
immediately  the  '  Raven  appeared  from  Cooktown, 
with  instructions  from  H.M.  Got^ernment  to  take 
Mr.  Chalmers,  and  proceed  to  proclaim  the  Protector- 
ate on  the  north-east  coast  of  the  peninsula,  which 
was  then  the  unknown  portion  of  New  .Guinea 
annexed  by  England.  They  had  some  difficulty  in 
starting  from  Port  Moresby,  as  natives  could  not  be  at 
once  found  to  coal  the  Raven.  The  terrible  haste  of 
the  British  to'  do  things  astonishes  the  people,  who 
have  always  been  accustomed  to  move  by  seasons,  and 
not  press  time. 

They  first  called  at  South  Cape,  and  found  the 
faithful  teacher  Mataio  had  died  from  yellow  fever. 
When  they  were  there  three  weeks  before  he  was 
hearty  and  full  of  work,  and  had  done  good  service 
for  the  Society. 

At  Killerton  they  left  a  letter  for  the  first  British 
man-of-war  that  called.  The  Mission  station' there  is 
a  perfect  model  farm,  splendidly  laid  out.  The  south- 
eastern part  of  New  Guinea  is  surrounded  for  200 
miles  with  countless  reefs,  ugly  pointed  rocks,  and 
islands.  Cross  currents  abound,  and-  navigation  is 
most  difficult,  especially  as  the  ship  has.  to  pick  its 


'PROTECTORATE   PROCLAIMED.  155- 

way  by  daylight  in  these  unsurveyed  seas.  At 
Porlock  Bay  the  natives  decamped,  but  the  flag  was 
hoisted  and  presents  left. 

They  saw  the  other  sides  of  the  mountain  ranges 
visible  from  the  southern  coast.  The  country 
appeared  to  be  very  mountainous  and  difficult  to 
travel  in.  At  Caution  Point  they  were  welcomed  by 
the  people,  who  were  very  excited,  and  enjoyed  the 
proceedings  and  the  presents,  but  decamped  upon  an 
attempt  being  made  to  secure  their  photographs. 

They  then  steamed  for  Deaf  Adder  Bay  along  a 
wonderful  coast.  From  the  water's  edge  up  hills,  along 
valleys  and  gullies,  to  the  highest  mountain  tops  only 
bush  is  to  be  seen.  Here  no  natives  appeared, 
and  they  set  out  on  the  return  journey,  and  went 
through  the  proclamation  ceremony  in  Rawden  Bay. 
The  natives  ran  away  upon  seeing  so  many  sailors 
come  ashore.  Paulo,  the  interpreter,  hung  on  to  one 
old  lady,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  pursued  the  chief  and 
brought  him  back.  During  the  cannonade  he  was 
terribly  frightened.  He  shook  with  fear,  and .  threw 
himself  upon  the  ground. 

.  The  people  now  returned  at  the  desire  of  their  chief, 
and  presents  were  exchanged.  The  old  lady  who 
witnessed  the  proceedings  was  regarded  as  a  heroine, 
and  envied  all  along  the  coast  for  her  pluck  and-  the 
wealth  of  presents  made  to  her  on  the  occasion  by 
the  captain.  Normandy  Island  was  next  visited. 
Only  one  young  native  sat  like  a  stoic  throughout 
all  the  doings,  and  after  the  feti-de-j'oie  stood  up  to 
receive  his  present  as -if  nothing  had  happened. 

Thus  closed  the  proclaiming  of  the  Protectorate  on 
the  coast  between  Huon  Gulf  and  East  Cape  and  the 
islands  of  the  D'Ehtrecasteaux  Group. ' 

There  remained  Rook  and  Long   Islands,  with  the 


156      ■  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

unannexed  part  of  the  north-east  coast  yet  to  be 
done,  and  Mr."  Chalmers  accompanied.  H.M.S.  Dart 
on  this  journey.  Captain  Bridges  had  a  happy  way 
of  dealing  with  natives,  and  the  trip  was  a  most 
successful  one.  The  most  important .  incident  was 
the  discovery"  of  a  succession  of  reefs,  which  seemed  to 
show  that  New  Guinea  possesses  on  the  north-east 
coast  a  barrier  reef  similar  to  that  on  the  correspond- 
ing part  of  Australia. 


Tour  with  the  Special  Commissioner. 

The  British  Government  followed  up  the  pro- 
clamation of  the  Protectorate  by  the  appointment 
of  Major-General  Sir  Peter  Scratchley  as  Special 
Commissioner.  He  was  to  take  charge  of  all  affairs 
relating  to  New  Guinea,  visit  the  country,  interview 
natives  and  foreigners,  make  inquiries,  and  report  to 
the  Colonial  Office. 

Mr.  Chalmers  was  expected  to  return  on  furlough 
to  Britain,  after  nearly  twenty  years'  absence,  but  the 
•Commissioner  sent  to  inform  him  that  he  was  anxious 
that  he  should  accompany  him  all  round  the  Protec- 
torate. « 

The  General  arrived  at  Port  Moresby  with  Mr.  H. 
O.  Forbes,  the  explorer,  in  August,  1885,  and  were 
friendly  competitors  for  Mr.  Chalmers'  help.'  He 
decided  to  go  with  the  Commissioner.  They,  visited 
Kabadi;  then  went  inland  from  Kaile  as  far  as  villages 
near  the  Astrolabe  Range.  Then  they  had  a  meeting 
of  coast  and  inland  chiefs  at  Kapakapa,  and  insisted 
upon  their  living  peaceably.  They  visited  Saroa, 
and  by  so  much  contact  the  General  grew  attached 
to  the  natives.  There  was  a  hearty  reception  at 
Kalo,  and  at  Kerepunu,  the  chiefs  vied   in  showing 


w 


A^ 


REV.  JAMES   CHALMERS. 


157 


158  •      .  JAMES   CHALMERS. 

their  appreciation  of  the  General  as  their  protector. 
At  Aroma  the  chief  Koapena  and  others .  compelled 
the  natives  to  restore  some  property  stolen  from-  a 
white  man  on  Constance  Island.  Then  they  went 
eastward  to  Dinner  Island,  Milne  Bay,  and  Discovery 
Bay.  Here  the  General  fell  into  the  water,  and  some 
attribute  the  fever  of  which  he  died  to  this  accident, 
but  Mr.  Chalmers  thinks  that  he  altogether  over- 
worked himself  At  Dinner  Island  they  were  joined 
by  H.M.S.  Raven  and  .i^^r/,  and  it  was  reported 
that  Captain  Miller  of,  Cooktown  had  been  murdered 
on  Normandy  Island,  so  they  proceeded  there. 

On  their  way  they  met  H.M.S.  Dart  with  one  of 
the  murderers  on  board.  He  acknowledged  his  guilt, 
and  had  come,  according  to  native  custom,  with 
presents  to  make  peace,  and  could  not  understand 
why  he  should  be  made  a  prisoner.  He  is  still  at 
Port  Moresby,  doubtless  wondering  what  is  to  be  done 
to  him! 

Other  places  were  visited,  and  a  party  led  by  Mr. 
Chalmers  crossed  the  peninsula  from  Milne  Bay  to 
Bently  Bay.  On  rejoining  the  steamer.,  the  General 
was  unwell.  Mr.  Chalmers  knew  it  was  fever,  and 
begged  him  to  return  at  once  to  Cooktown,  but  he 
was  anxious  to  complete  his  work.  He  continued  to 
get  worse,  and  sailed  for  Australia ;  but  it  was  too  late. 
On  arriving  at  Port  Moresby  Mr.  Chalmers  received 
the  news  that  General  Scratchley  was  dead.  All 
there  felt  that  they  had  lost  a  true  friend  and 
protector. 

In  1886  Mr.  Chalmers  reported  great  progress  all 
along  the  qoast.  In  many  stations  numbers  of  con- 
verts awaited  baptism.  The  joy  of  the  missionaries 
was  great.  New  teachers  arrived  from  Rarotonga  and 
were  located,  and  everything  bore  a  most  promising 


RETURN   TO   ENGLAND.  .      1 59 

aspect  when  a  terrible  epidemic  broke  out,  the 
symptoms  resembling  those  of  yellow  fever.  Its 
ravages  were  terrible,  and  whole  villages  were  depopu- 
lated. At  Port  Moresby  Mr.  Chalmers  spent  from 
four  to  five  hours  daily  visiting,  the  sick. 

In  August  he  ai:rived  in  England  after  an  absence 
of  over  twenty  years,  and  received  everywhere  the 
heartiest  welcome,  while  crowded  audiences  through- 
out the  kingdom  hung  upon  his  lips  as  with  graphic 
simplicity  he  told  the  story  of  God's  work  among  the 
heathen. 

The  previous  chapters  give  a  sufficient  account  of 
that  work.  It  would  be  distasteful  to  Mr.  Chalmers ' 
if  any  estimate  were  offered  respecting  himself  He 
is  a  modest  man,  of  great  faitli  and  intense  devotion. 
The  seasons  in  which  he  has  had  the  greatest  spiritual 
blessing  have  been  w^hile  engaged  in  private  and  public 
prayer.  '  * 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  nearly  all  of  the  200 
hymns  in  the  Motu  dialect  have  been  translated  by 
him  from  English  sources. 

His  preservation  in  spite  of  such  repeated  attacks 
of  fever  and  the  dangers  he  has  passed  through  is 
truly  wonderful,  especially  when  it  is  known  that  out 
of  the  205  native  teachers  who  have  been  engaged 
in  New  Guinea,  103  have  died  or  had  to  return  to 
Polynesia  through  the  effects  of  the  climate. 

He  had  said  in  jest  on  leaving  Inveraray  that  on 
his  return-  he  would  dine  at  the  Castle.  This  proved 
a  true  prediction.  .  The  Duke  of  Argyle  and  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  have  taken  the  deepest  interest  in 
his  work,  and  showed  him  great  kindness.  On  the 
6th  of  June,  1887,  he  planted  a  fine  Spanish  chestnut 
tree  in  the  Castle  Park,  close  to  the  one  planted  by 
Dr.  Livingstone.  •  • 


i6o 


JAMES   CHALMERS. 


The  Government  of  Victoria  having  voted  ^2000 
for  exploration  in  New  Guinea,  with  the  express  desire 
that  Mr.  Chalmers  should  undertake  the  work,  he  left 
England  for  Melbourne  on  the  24th  of  June,  1887, 
hoping  to  commence  operations  towards  the  close 
of  that  year. 

Here  we  must  leave  Mr.  Chalmers  with  the  fervent 
hope  that  his  renewed  efforts  to  penetrate  into  the 
great  island  may  be  crowned  with  full  success. 


SPEAR,    KNIFE,    AND-  PIPE. 


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able present  to  persons  signing  the  pledge.)  With  spaces  for  autographs. 

The  Brewer's  Son.  By  the  late  Mrs.  Ellis,  Author  of 
"The  Women  of  England,"  "Daughters  of  England,"  etc.  With 
several  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

Burton    Brothers.      A  Temperance  Tale.      Founded  on 

Fact.     By  Laura  L.  Pratt.     Crown  8vo.     Cloth. 

The  Canal  Boy  who  became  President.    By  Frederic 

T.   Gammon.      Sixth   Edition.     Twentieth   Thousand.     Crown  8vo, 
Illustrated.     Cloth. 

Ohan^ng  Places;  or,  Wilton  Fairlegh  in  Animal-Land. 
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lustrations by  W.  Ralston  and  other  Artists.     Crown  8vo,  cloth  extra, 

Ohrist  and  Full  Salvation.    By  Rev.  J.  B.  Figgis,  M.A. 

New  and  Cheaper  Edition.     Cloth. 

Ohrist  and  the  Bible.  By  the  Rev.  Professor  Stanley 
Leathes,  D.D.,  Author  of  *'The  Grounds  of  Christian  Hope,"  "The 
Birthday  of  Christ,"  etc.     Crown  Svo,  cloth  extra. 

The  Dairyman's  Daughter.  By  the  Rev.  Legh  Rich- 
mond, M.A.    Cloth. 

Down  in  the  Valley.     A  Tale.    By  Lady  Hope,  Author 

of  "  Our  Coffee  Room,"  "  A  Red  Brick  Cottage,"  etc.,  etc.     Crown 
Svo.     Cloth  extra. 

Ellerslie    House.      A  Book  for  Boys.     By  Emma  Leslie. 

With  eight  full-page  Engravings.     Cloth. 

Facts  to  Impress,  Fancies  to  Delight.    A  Book  for 

Young    People.      By  Frederic  T.  Gammon.      Crown  Svo.      Many 
Illustrations.     Cloth. 

The  Four  Pillars  of  Temperance.     By  the  Author  of 

"  Buy  your  own  Cherries."     Cloth. 

Fiddy  Scraggs;  or,  a  Clumsy  Foot  may  Step  True.  By 
Anna  J.  Buckland,  Author  of  '*Love  and  Duty,"  etc.  With  Frontis- 
piece.    New  Edition.     Crown  Svo.     Cloth. 

Ck)od  Servants,  Good  Wives,  and  Happy  Homes. 

By  Rev.  T.  H.  Walker.     Cloth. 

The  Gospel  Temperance  Text  Book.    Cloth.   Lettered. 


CATALOGUE  OF  NEW  AND  POPULAR  WORKS.    7 

Is.   6d.  each  {continued). 
The  Great  Pilot  and  His  Lessons.    By  the  Author  of 

*'  The  Giants,  and  how  to  Fight  Them."    With  numerous  Illustrations. 
Cloth. 

Great  Pyramid :  Its  History  and  Teachings.  With 
Diagram.    By  T.  Septimus  Marks.   Second  Edition.   Limp.    Cloth,  2s. 

Hampered;  or,  the  Hollister  Faraily  and  their  Trials,  By 
A.K.  Dunning.     Illustrated.     Crown  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Hilda;   or,  Life's  Discipline.     By  Edith  C.  Kenyon.     With 

numerous  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

His  Handiwork.     By  Lady  Hope,  Author  of  "  Our  Coffee 

Room,"  "Down  in  the  Valley,"  etc.,  etc. 

Hours  with  Girls.  By  Mrs.  Margaret  E.  Sangster,  Author 
of  "  May  Stanhope  and  her  Friends,"  "  Splendid  Times,"  etc.  With 
full-page  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

The  Household  Angel  in  Disguise.    By  Mrs.  M.  Leslie, 

With  Illustrations,     Coloured  paper  cover,  is.  6d.  ;  cloth,  2s, 

Illustrated  Sabbath  Facts  ;  or,  God's  Weekly  Gift  to  the 

Weary.     Reprinted  from  the  "  British  Workman."    With  Illustrations. 
1st  and  2nd  Series.     Cloth,  is.  6d.  each. 

Illustrated   Temperance   Anecdotes ;   or,  Facts  and 

Figures  for  the  Platform  and  the  People.     Compiled  by  the  Editor  of 
the  "  British  Workman."     ist  and  2nd  Series.     Cloth, is.  6d.  each. 

Issy:  A  Story  of  Trust  and  Triumph.  By  Laura  McL. 
Backler.     With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Jack's  Heroism.     A  Story  of  Schoolboy  Life,     By  Edith 

C.  Kenyon.     With  many  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Jemmy  Lawson ;  the  Story  of  a  Village  Lad.    By  E.  C. 

Kenyon,  Author  of    "Jack's  Heroism,"  etc.     Crown  8vo,      Cloth 
extra.     Illustrated. 

Jessie    Macdonald;     or,   Maidens   Beware!      By   G.    S. 

Williams,  Author  of  "Queen  Elfrida  of  the  Olden  Time,"     Crown 
8vo,     Cloth,  gilt, 

Kitty  King.  A  Book  for  the  Nursery.  With  full-page 
Engravings.     Cloth. 

Knight  of  Dilham  (The).  A  Story  of  the  Lollards.  By 
Rev.  Arthur  Brown,  B.A.,  Rector  of  Catfield,  Norfolk,  Author  of 
"The  Last  of  the  Abbots."     i6mo.     Cloth.     Illustrations. 

Life   Truths.      By  the   Rev.    J.   Denham  Smith.      i6mo. 

Cloth.     (Paper,  fourteenth  thousand,  6d.) 

Little  Bugler  (The).  A  Tale  of  the  American  Civil  War. 
By  George  Monroe  Royce.     With  Engravings.     Cloth,  lettered. 


8  S.  W.  PARTRIDGE  AND  CO.'S 

Is,   6d.  each  {co7itinued). 
The  Little  Woodman  and  his  Dog  Caesar.    By  Mrs, 

Sherwood.     Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Manchester  House :  A  Tale  of  Two  Apprentices.    By  J. 

Capes  Story.     With  eight  full-page  Engravings.     Cloth. 

Marion  and  Augusta ;  or,  Love  and  Selfishness.  By  Emma 
Leslie,  Author  of  "  Ellerslie  House,"  "The  Water  Waifs,"  etc. 
Crown  8vo.     Cloth. 

Martha  the  Merry ;  or,  as  one  Door  Shuts  another  Opens. 

A  book  for  Girls.  By  Mrs.  Jerome  Mercier.  Second  Edition, 
With  Engravings.     Crown  8vo.     Cloth. 

Music  for  the  Nursery.     Revised  by  Philip    Phillips, 

the  *'  Singing  Pilgrim."  A  Collection  of  fifty  of  the  Sweet  Pieces  for 
the  "  Little  Ones "  that  appeared  in  the  "  Infant's  Magazine,"  etc. 
Handsomely  bound  in  cloth. 

Our    Duty  to  Animals.      By   Mrs.    C.    Bray,  Author  of 

"  Physiology  for  Schools,"  etc.  Intended  to  teach  the  young  kindness 
to  animals.     Cloth,  is.  6d. ;  School  Edition,  is.  3d. 

Out  of  step  ;  or,  The  Broken  Crystal.     By  C.  M.  Clarke. 

Author  of  "  Polly's  Petition,"  etc.  Illustrated.  Crown  8vo.  Cloth 
extra. 

Rag  and  Tag.  A  Plea  for  the  Waifs  and  Strays  of  Old 
England.  By  Mrs.  E.  J.  Whittaker.  With  ten  full-page  Engravings. 
Cloth. 

Richard  Slade ;  A  Story  for  Young  and  Old.     By  Charles 

Ernest.     Crown  8vo.     With  Engravings.     Cloth. 

Rills  from  the  Fountain  of  Life.     By  the  Rev.  Dr. 

Newton.     With  Illustrations.    Cloth. 

Satisfied.  By  Catherine  M.  Trowbridge.  With  ten  Illus- 
trations by  W.  Rainey.    Cloth. 

T.  B.  Smithies,  Editor  of  "The  British  Workman."  A 
Memoir.  By  the  Rev.  G.  Stringer  Rowe.  With  Portrait.  Crown 
8vo.     Cloth  extra,  is.  6d. ;  roan,  gilt  edges,  3s. 

Sparks  from  the  Anvil.    By  Elihu  Burritt.    Cloth. 

Stories   for   Sunday.      By  Rev.   Theron   Brown.      With 

numerous  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Three  People.  A  Story  of  the  Temperance  Crusade  in 
America.  By  Pansy.  With  Frontispiece.  Paper  covers,  is.  6d.  { 
cloth,  2S. 

Vignettes  of  American  History.     By  Mary  Howitt, 

Cloth. 


CATALOGUE  OF  NEW  AND  POPULAR  WORKS.    9 

Is.  each. 

NEW  SERIES  OF  POPULAR  BIOGRAPHIES.  Small 
crown  Zvo^  cloth  extra.     With  Portraits  and  Illustrations. 

Martin  Luther,  the  Reformer.     Written  in  a  popular 

style  for  the  Young.     Many  Illustrations.     Crown  8vo.     Cloth. 

John  Wicliffe,  the  Morning  Star  of  the  Reforma- 
tion. By  David  J.  Deane,  Author  of  "  Martin  Luther,  the  Reformer." 
With  Eight  Illustrations. 

Shaftesbury:  His  Life  and  Work.     By  G.  Holden  Pike. 

Illustrated.     Crown  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 
Joseph    Livesey.      The  Story  of  His  Life,    1794 — 1884. 

By  James  Weston.     With  Portraits.     Crown  Svo.     Cloth  extra. 

John  Harris,  the  Oomish  Poet.    The  Story  of  His  Life. 

By  his  Son,  J.  Howard  Harris.     With  Portrait.     Crown  Svo.     Cloth 
extra. 

Sir  Moses  Montefiore.     The  Story  of  His  Life.     By 

James  Weston,  Author  of  "  Joseph  Livesey,"  etc.     With  Portrait  and 
Illustrations.     Crown  Svo.     Cloth  extra, 

Gordon :    the  Christian  Hero.    By  Abraham  Kingdon. 

Crown  Svo.     Portrait  and  Illustrations.     Cloth  extra. 


A  Flight  with  the  Swallows ;  or,  Little  Dorothy's  Dream. 
By  Emma  Marshall,  Author  of  **  Poppies  and  Pansies,"  "Silver 
Chimes,"  etc.    Illustrated.     Crown  Svo,  cloth  extra. 

The  Babes  in  the  Basket ;  or,  Daph  and  her  Charges. 

With  ten  Illustrations.     Cloth  extra. 

"  The  Battlefield."      A  Tale  of  the  East-end  of  London. 

By  the  Author  of  "  Frying-pan  Alley."     With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 
The  Bethlehemites.     From  the  German.     By  Julie  Sutter. 

With  Illustrations.     Cloth  extra.  

Bible  Pattern  of  a  Good  Woman.    By  Mrs.  Balfour^ 

Cloth. 

Bible  Pictures  and  Stories.    By  James  Weston,  Author 

of  **  Dick's  Holidays,"  etc.  With  forty-five  beautiful  full-page  Illus- 
trations by  W.  J.  Webb,  Sir  John  Gilbert,  and  others.  New  Edition. 
Fcap.  4to.     Illustrated  Boards,  is.  ;  Cloth  extra,  2s. 

Birdie  and  her  Dog,  and  other  Stories  of  Canine 

Sagacity.     By  Miss  Phillips.     With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

"  Buster  "  and  "  Baby  Jim."     By  the  Author  of  the 

"  Blue  Flag,"  etc.     With  four  Illustrations  by  R.  Barnes.     Cloth. 
Oared  for  ;    or,  The  Orphan  Wanderers.      By  Mrs.  C.  E, 
Bowen,  Author  of  *'  Dick  and  his  Donkey,"  etc.      With  Illustrations, 
Cloth. 

Oheering  Words  for  Weary  and  Troubled  Believers. 

By  Rev.  Alfred  Tyler.     Second  Edition,  i6mo.     Cloth, 


lo  S.   IV.  PARTRIDGE  AND  CO:S 

Is.  each  {continued). 

Children  and  Jesus ;  or,  Stories  to  Children  about  Jesus. 
By  Rev.  E.  P.  Hammond,  New  and  Revised  Edition.  Illustrated, 
Crown  8vo.     Cloth. 

Claims  of  Animals.  A  Lecture  on  the  Duty  of  Promoting 
Kindness  to  the  Animal  Creation.  In  large  type,  with  Illustrations, 
Cloth  extra. 

Cloister  and  Closet.  A  Plea  for  Private  Meditation,  By 
Rev.  C.  E.  Stone.     Demy  i6mo.     Cloth  extra. 

Cousin  Bessie:    A  Story  of  Youthful  Earnestness.     With 

Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Divine  and  Moral  Songs.  By  Dr.  Watts,  With  Illus- 
trations.   Cloth. 

Frank   Spencer's   Rule  of  Life.     By  J.  W.  Kirton 

Author  of  "  Buy  your  own  Cherries."    With  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

Frying-pan  Alley.  By  Mrs.  F.  West.  With  Illustrations 
by  R.  Barnes.     Cloth. 

The  Giants,  and  how  to  Fight  Them.    By  the  Re?. 

Dr.  Newton.     Illustrations.     Cloth. 

God's  Arithmetic.  With  other  Stories  for  the  Young. 
By  Mrs.  F.  West,  Author  of  "  Frying-pan  Alley,"  etc.  With  many 
Illustrations,     Cloth, 

The  Happiness  of  Full  Consecration.     Being  Brief 

Memorials  of  Emmeline  Duncan.     Second  Edition.     Cloth, 

"Have  we  any  Word  of  God?"     By  the  Author  of 

•'  Is  the  Bible  True  ?  "     With  Illustrations,     Cloth, 

How  a  Farthing  Made  a  Fortune ;  or,  "  Honesty  is 

the  Best  Policy."      By  Mrs.  C.  E.  Bowen.     With  Seven  full-page 
Engravings.     Cloth, 

How   Paul's   Penny   became   a   Pound.      By  Mrs. 

Bowen,   Author  of  "Dick  and  his  Donkey."      With    Illustrations. 
Cloth. 

How  Peter's  Pound  became  a  Penny.    By  the  Author 

of  "Jack  the  Conqueror,"  etc.     With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

I  Know ;   or,  the  Verities  of  the  Bible.     By  Mrs.  Peploe, 

Authoress  of  "  Naomi,"  etc.     Second  Thousand.     i6mo.     Cloth. 

Jenny's    Geranium ;    or,  the  Prize  Flower  of  a  Londoo 

Court.     With  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

Joe  and  Sally ;  or,  A  Good  Deed  and  its  Fruits.     By  the 

Author  of  "Grumbling  Tommy."    With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 


CATALOGUE  OF  NEW  AND  POPULAR  WORKS,  ii 

Is.   esich  {continued). 
John  Oriel's  Start  in  Life.     By  Mary  Howitt.     With 

many  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

Kindness  to  Animals.     By  Charlotte  Elizabeth.     With 

numerous  Illustrations.     Cloth, 

Lilies;  or,  Letters  to  Schoolgirls.     By  well-known 

Writers.     Royal  l6mo,  cloth  extra. 

Master   Lionel,  that  Tiresome   Child.     By  E.  M. 

Waterworth,  Author  of  *'  Pictures,  Prose,  and  Rhymes,"  etc.     With 
seven  Illustrations  by  Robert  Barnes.     Crown  8vo,  cloth  extra. 

Mind  Whom  You  Marry ;  or,  The  Gardener's  Daughter. 

By  the  Rev.  C.  G.  Rowe.     Cloth. 

A  Mother's  Stories  for  Her  Children.     By  the  late 

Mrs.  Carus  Wilson.     Cloth. 

Nan's  Story;  or,  the  Life  and  Work  of  a  City  Arab. 
By  L.  Sharp.     Crown  8vo,  cloth. 

No  Gains  without  Pains.     A  True  Story.     By  H.  C. 

Knight.     Cloth. 

Only  a  Little  Fault.  By  Emma  Leslie,  Author  of 
*'  Water  Waifs,"  etc.     With  seven  full-page  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Our  Picture  Book.  With  Descriptive  Stories  and  Verses. 
Fifty  Illustrations.  Fcap.  4to,  Illustrated  boards  is.;  cloth  extra, 
bevelled  boards,  2s. 

Our  Ten  Weeks'  Strike.    By  G.  E.  Sargent,  Author  of 

"  The  Story  of  a  Pocket  Bible."     With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Passages  in  the  History  of  a  Shilling.    By  Mrs.  C.  L, 

Balfour.     Cloth. 

Stories  and  Pictures  of  Birds,  Beasts,  and  Fishes. 

By  James  Weston,  Author  of  "  The  Young  Folk's  Picture  Book," 
**  Bible  Pictures  and  Stories,"  etc.  Fifty  Illustrations.  Fcap.  4to. 
Illustrated  Boards,  is.  ;  cloth  extra,  bevelled  boards,  2s, 

Plea  for  Mercy  to  Animals.    By  Dr.  Macaulay,  Editor 

of  **  Leisure  Hour,"  etc.     Cheap  Edition.     Cloth. 

Polished    Corner    Stones ;    or,    Letters    to    Schoolgirls. 

By  Popular  Writers.     Royal  i6mo.     Cloth. 

Poor  Blossom.      The   Story  of  a  Horse.      By  E.  H.  B. 

With  many  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Rachel ;  The  Little  Captive  Maid.    From  the  German. 

By  Julie  Sutter.     Crown  8vo,  cloth  extra. 


12  S.  IV.  PARTRIDGE  AND  CO.'S 


Is.  each  {continued), 

Rosa;    or,  The   Two  Castles.     By   Miss   Bradburn.     With 

Eight  full-page  Engravings.     Cloth, 

Stories  and  Illustrations  of  the  Ten  Command- 
ments.    With  several  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Toil  and  Trust;    or,  Life-Story  of  Patty,  the  Workhouse 
Girl.     By  Mrs.  Balfour,     Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Truth  frae  'mang  the  Heather ;  or,  Is  the  Bible  True  ? 

ByWilliamM'Caw,  Shepherd.     With  Portrait.     Cloth. 

Wait  till   it   Blooms.     By  Jennie   Chappell,  Author   of 
**  Her  Saddest  Blessing,"  etc.     Illustrated.     Crown  8vo,  cloth  extra. 

Wanderings  of  a  Bible,  and  My  Mother's  Bible.    With 

Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Water  Waifs  (The) :  A  Story  of  Canal  Barge  Life.      By 

Emma  Leslie.     With  Seven  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

What  put  my  Pipe  Out ;  or,  Incidents  in  the  Life  of  a 

Clergyman.     Cloth, 

Widow  Green  and  her  Three  Nieces.    By  Mrs.  Ellis 

With  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Willie  Heath  and  the  House  Rent.    By  William  Leask 

D.D.    Cloth. 

Women  of  the  Bible.      (Old    Testament.)      By   Etty 

Woosnam.     Third  Edition.     Royal  i6mo.     Cloth. 

Women  of  the  Bible.     (New  Testament.)     By  the  same 
Author.     Royal  i6mo.     Cloth. 


9d.  each. 

Ben  Owen  :  A  Lancashire  Story.    By  Jennie  Perrett.    Second 

Edition.     With  Engravings.     Fcap.  8vo-     Cloth. 

For    Lucy's   Sake.      By  Annie   S    Swan.     Royal  i6mo. 

With  Engravings.     Cloth. 

Grandmother's  Child.     By  Annie  S.  Swan.     Royal  i6mo. 

Engravings.     Cloth, 

Herbert  Dalton :  A  Tale  of  Fame  and  Fortune.     By  Mary 

Elizabeth  Bacot,  Author  of  *'  Dare  to  be  True,"  etc.      lUustrationt. 
Royal  i6mo.     Cloth. 


CATALOGUE  OF  NEW  AND  POPULAR   WORKS.  13 

9d.  ea.Ch  {continued^. 

Into  the  Light.     By  Jennie  Perrett.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth. 

Ormsleigh's  Ordeal :  A  Story  of  Alpine  Adventures.  By 
J.  Theobald.     With  many  Illustrations.     Cloth. 

Patsy ;  or,  One  of  his  Little  Ones.  With  Engravings.  Royal 
i6mo.     Cloth. 

Paul  Bradley:  A  Village  Tale,  inculcating  Kindness  to 
Animals.  By  Mrs.  Charles  Bray.  Second  Edition.  With  six  page 
Engravings.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth. 


6d.  each. 

THE  ''RED  DAVE''  SERIES  OF  ILLUSTRATED  TALES, 

Twenty-four  Volumes^  uniform.  Fcap.  Svo.  64  pages.  Cloth  extra. 

Red  Dave;  or,  "What  wilt  Thou  have  me  to  do?"     By 

M.  S.  MacRitchie.     Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  extra. 

Poppy.     By  M.  S.  MacRitchie.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

"  Vic :  "  the  Autobiography  of  a  Pomeranian  Dog.     By  Alfred 
C.  Fryer,  Ph.D.,  M. A.     Third  Edition.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Brown  Jacket  and  her  Little  Heathen ;   and  other 

Stories.     Cloth,  gilt. 

Too  Many  Irons;  and  other  Stories.  Fcap.  8vo.  Cloth  extra» 

Lost  in  the  Snow ;  or,  the  Kentish  Fishermen.     By  Mrs. 
C.  Rigg.     With  numerous  Illustrations.    Fcap.  8vo,     Cloth  extra. 

Friendless  Bob ;  and  other  Stories.  Fcap.  8vo.  Cloth  extra. 

Oome  Home,  Mother.    By  Nelsie  Brook. 

Maude's  Visit  to  Sandybeach.    By  Mrs.  Waller.    Fcap, 

8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Stella's  Nosegay,  and  other  Tales.    By  Mrs.  West.    Fcap. 

8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Dora  Maitland.    By  Mrs.  West.    Fcap.  8vo.    Cloth  extra. 
Albert   Maurice,  and  other   Tales.      Fcap.  Svo.     Cloth 

extra. 


14  S.  W.  PARTRIDGE  AND  COJS 

6d.   each  {continued^. 
The   Silver   Cup,  and  other  Tales.      Fcap.  8vo.      Cloth 

extra, 
Polly's  Victory,  and  other  Tales.     Fcap.  8vo.    Cloth  extra. 
Dick  and  his  Donkey;  or,  How  to  Pay  the  Rent.    By 

Mrs.  C.  E.  Bowen.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

That  Boy  Bob,  and  all  about  him.     By  Jesse  Page. 

Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Snowdrops ;    or,  Life  from  the  Dead.     With  Illustrations. 
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Leonard    Franklin,   the   Watercress    Seller.      By 

H.  C.  H.  A.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Sybil  and  her  Live  Snowball.     By  the   Author  of 

"  Dick  and  his  Donkey."    To  which  is  added  the  *'  Story  of  the  Bird's 
Nest."    With  Illustrations.     Cloth  extra. 

Donald's    Charge.       By   Harriet    Boultwood,   Author   of 
"  John  Farrar's  Ordeal,"  etc.     Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 

Dottles  and  Carrie.    By  Jesse  Page.    Illustrated.    Fcap. 

8vo,  cloth  extra. 

Carlos,  and  What  the  Flowers  Did.    With   seven  full-page 
Illustrations.     Fcap.  8vo,  cloth  extra. 

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Bob,"  **  Dottles  and  Carrie,"  etc.  Illustrated.  Fcap.  8vo.  Cloth  extra. 

Owen's    Fortune;  or,   "Durable    Riches,"      By   Mrs.   F. 

West,   Author  of  "Frying-pan  Alley,"   etc.      With  four   full-page 
Illustrations.    Fcap.  8vo.     Cloth  extra. 


"Buy  your  own  Cherries."    Prose  Edition.    By  J.  W. 

Kirton.     Illustrations.    Cloth. 

The  Consecration  Scripture  Text-Book.    With  Text 

and  Verse  for  each  Day  in  the  Year.     Royal  641110.     Cloth,  red  edges. 

Light   on  the   Path:   A  Daily  Help  for  Life's   Journey. 
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Date  Due 

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